Structural Integrity of SOG Seal Pup Elite Handle?

[Fixall]

I have an SOG Seal Pup Elite that I use as a camp knife when I want to feel cool. It's actually not a bad knife (for the $36 I paid for it) and really only has one thing that holds it back in my opinion.

The handle.

I'm not really sure what SOG was thinking when they added the thumb rise on the back of the handle, but it sucks. Maybe it's just because I have tiny hands that would be more fitting on a child... But I often like to put my thumb on the back of the blade for additional support when I'm doing things like sharpening marshmallow sticks.

I've been giving some thought to filing down the GRN on the back of the handle so that it's not so obtrusive, but I worry that I will damage the structural integrity of the handle. Has anyone here filed down the handle on a Seal Pup/Team?? Do you guys think the knife would still be safe if I was to do so?

Here's the spot I'm talking about (circled in red)







I wish they would have just made the handle on the Seal Pup the same as the handle on the Field Pup. For the $11 I paid for it at Cabela's it's a DAMN good knife. I wish I would have picked up a second since they're using 7Cr17MoV instead of AUS8 now.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I've got the standard seal pup and it actually feels great in hand.
In my opinion the seal pup in general is really more of a Skinner with a tactical style to it.
It seems to me that the serrations on the blade of the standard were an afterthought, I feel without them it'd be a much better knife.

As far as shaping down the handle, I don't think it would be a problem.

 

[b00n]

Weirdly enough I've been wondering something similar about my Seal 2000, finding out how the tang looks like, in case I might want to try my hand at making a new handle/scales, since the Zytel Stuff isn't all that nice. But since it's non reversible and I didn't want to ruin a decent knife I held off.

Okay so I can google better now:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/my-pimped-sog-seal-pup.700452/

 

[Fixall]

I've got the standard seal pup and it actually feels great in hand.
In my opinion the seal pup in general is really more of a Skinner with a tactical style to it.
It seems to me that the serrations on the blade of the standard were an afterthought, I feel without them it'd be a much better knife.

As far as shaping down the handle, I don't think it would be a problem.

Yea... If it wasn't for the thumb riser, the Seal Pup would fit my hand very well in a variety of grips (not as well as the Field Pup though, that thing feels like it was custom made for my hand). For $36, I'm really pleased with it. For the $50 it usually goes for... I probably would have returned it (or more likely, not purchased it in the first place). It kind of seems like it's serviceable for a variety of tasks without excelling in anything (other than great looks, imo).

I'm guessing the serrated spine was just thrown in because it looks cool, lol. I haven't found that it's hindered my use of the knife or anything though.

Weirdly enough I've been wondering something similar about my Seal 2000, finding out how the tang looks like, in case I might want to try my hand at making a new handle/scales, since the Zytel Stuff isn't all that nice. But since it's non reversible and I didn't want to ruin a decent knife I held off.

Swapping the handle completely... That's another option I guess (didn't even think of that, lol). I actually really like the material the Seal Pup is made out of though. I live in the Pacific Northwest and do a lot of my camping in the rain and it performs extremely well in wet conditions.

Another thing I just remembered is that the sheath is also kind of lame... I have the nylon sheath and it seems to bang up the cutting edge of the Seal Pup more than I would like.

 

[Gideons]

The ramp is there as a "guard" an upper guard for extra traction for hard use so you don't slide forward onto the blade during hard use situations(IMO it should actually be slightly larger). Unsure why you would buy a knife marketed as a "tactical" fixed blade, not use it for that... then complain about important features to the SOG intended use.

 

[b00n]

The ramp is there as a "guard" an upper guard for extra traction for hard use so you don't slide forward onto the blade. Unsure why you would buy a knife marketed as a "tactical" fixed blade, not use it for that... then complain about important features to the SOG intended use.

I don't know, maybe he likes everything else about it? Liked the looks and likes the knife fine but would like to improve it a bit for his personal specific needs? I mean you say "Intended use" is he supposed to go through BUD/S and go stab Taliban with it because it's marketed as Tactical and has SEAL in the name? Just saying, he asked a simple reasonable question.

 

[Gideons]

I don't know, maybe he likes everything else about it? Liked the looks and likes the knife fine but would like to improve it a bit for his personal specific needs? I mean you say "Intended use" is he supposed to go through BUD/S and go stab Taliban with it because it's marketed as Tactical and has SEAL in the name? Just saying, he asked a simple reasonable question.

It is marketed that may because it was designed for that intended use. He said in his post "I'm not really sure what SOG was thinking when they added the thumb rise on the back of the handle, but it sucks." - I was answering this question.

 

[b00n]

It is marketed that may because it was designed for that intended use. He said in his post "I'm not really sure what SOG was thinking when they added the thumb rise on the back of the handle, but it sucks." - I was answer this question. Also, what type of moronic; ignorant & small minded statement do you think "tactical" only means stabbing "taliban" or have anything to do with BUD/S training?

Yes, you explained it. And I didn't say you're wrong about the reason for the flare on the handle. What would you say is the intended use for the knife then, IE what kind of tactical application was it designed for? (To me it was basically a smaller more compact version of the SEAL 2000 which was used as a general purpose fighting knife adopted by the SEALs. Hence my not entirely serious going through Buds and stabbing Taliban remarks) If I came off a bit harsh/rude towards you, it wasn't meant that way.

 

[Fixall]

The ramp is there as a "guard" an upper guard for extra traction for hard use so you don't slide forward onto the blade during hard use situations(IMO it should actually be slightly larger). Unsure why you would buy a knife marketed as a "tactical" fixed blade, not use it for that... then complain about important features to the SOG intended use.

Well you sound like a lot of fun at parties, lol.

I bought the knife a few years ago before I knew a damn thing about knives. I've only been a member of this forum for about a week.

I needed a knife for a camping trip and wanted a full tang. This was about $35 and looked like it would do fine. SOG might market it as a tactical/hunting (right there on their website) knife, but Cabelas was marketing and featuring it as a hunting knife at the time.

I can't think of many uses for the "upper guard" other than to prevent the knife from sliding down when you're stabbing someone. Any time I've needed to use a blade for downward striking penetration, I've used a reverse grip. The bottom guard would be just fine for that.

My intention wasn't to complain. My intention was to ask if anyone has experience filing down the "upper guard" to the point that it is almost flush with the blade and if it was safe to do so. Unless you designed the knife and I upset you with my comment, I'm not really sure why you latched on to the part of the post that doesn't really matter.

I don't know, maybe he likes everything else about it? Liked the looks and likes the knife fine but would like to improve it a bit for his personal specific needs? I mean you say "Intended use" is he supposed to go through BUD/S and go stab Taliban with it because it's marketed as Tactical and has SEAL in the name? Just saying, he asked a simple reasonable question.

Basically this. I bought the knife before I knew anything about knives. I don't hate the knife, but I don't love it. I'm just trying to make the best out of the situation by modifying the knife to fit me better.

 

[Gideons]

Yes, you explained it. And I didn't say you're wrong about the reason for the flare on the handle. What would you say is the intended use for the knife then, IE what kind of tactical application was it designed for? (To me it was basically a smaller more compact version of the SEAL 2000 which was used as a general purpose fighting knife adopted by the SEALs. Hence my not entirely serious going through Buds and stabbing Taliban remarks) If I came off a bit harsh/rude towards you, it wasn't meant that way.

Ah, I thought you were serious and were mocking my usage of the word "tactical". I do also do apologise for being harsh in my response.

Well you sound like a lot of fun at parties, lol.

I bought the knife a few years ago before I knew a damn thing about knives. I've only been a member of this forum for about a week.

I needed a knife for a camping trip and wanted a full tang. This was about $35 and looked like it would do fine. SOG might market it as a tactical/hunting (right there on their website) knife, but Cabelas was marketing and featuring it as a hunting knife at the time.

I can't think of many uses for the "upper guard" other than to prevent the knife from sliding down when you're stabbing someone. Any time I've needed to use a blade for downward striking penetration, I've used a reverse grip. The bottom guard would be just fine for that.

My intention wasn't to complain. My intention was to ask if anyone has experience filing down the "upper guard" to the point that it is almost flush with the blade and if it was safe to do so. Unless you designed the knife and I upset you with my comment, I'm not really sure why you latched on to the part of the post that doesn't really matter.

Thank you. Yes, my party has been studying/in lectures for the past 13 hours & still in a library. Also, an upper guard isn't just for "stabbing", there are many situations in camping, outdoors, or survival where hard use tasks require you to bear down hard on a knife that could result in slipping forward, that is just physics mate.

Also, to your point... I would hypothesis and recommend against it as I would think grinding that off could affect the stability of the handle and long term durability (more prone to partial crumbling/wear etc.).

I understand you wish to use that thumb to have more control over the blade during more detailed orientated tasks. I guess I latched onto that part of your post as it just seemed frankly kind of silly to me, as seems like a pretty small thing or something that is relatively easy thing to adapt/solve. Do you not like it because it causes hot spots on your thumb? I guess my opinion doesn't really matter and I should of kept it to myself. All that matters is that you don't like it...

 

[jbmonkey]

handles glass fiber nylon isnt it? doubt filing it down would harm integrity but.......never tried and who knows until ya do and use it and find out.

i have the same model bought years ago...i find the guard design to be not a problem. move your thumb further over it for controlled cuts. that what i do. otherwise i find thumb placement on the guard to work fine.

 

[Hickory n steel]

Yea... If it wasn't for the thumb riser, the Seal Pup would fit my hand very well in a variety of grips (not as well as the Field Pup though, that thing feels like it was custom made for my hand). For $36, I'm really pleased with it. For the $50 it usually goes for... I probably would have returned it (or more likely, not purchased it in the first place). It kind of seems like it's serviceable for a variety of tasks without excelling in anything (other than great looks, imo).

I'm guessing the serrated spine was just thrown in because it looks cool, lol. I haven't found that it's hindered my use of the knife or anything though.



Swapping the handle completely... That's another option I guess (didn't even think of that, lol). I actually really like the material the Seal Pup is made out of though. I live in the Pacific Northwest and do a lot of my camping in the rain and it performs extremely well in wet conditions.

Another thing I just remembered is that the sheath is also kind of lame... I have the nylon sheath and it seems to bang up the cutting edge of the Seal Pup more than I would like.

I was talking about my standard seal pup having a partially serrated cutting edge, but what your seal pup elite has was probably an afterthought as well.

 

[Fixall]

Thank you. Yes, my party has been studying/in lectures for the past 13 hours & still in a library. Also, an upper guard isn't just for "stabbing", there are many situations in camping, outdoors, or survival where hard use tasks require you to bear down hard on a knife that could result in slipping forward, that is just physics mate. Also, to your point... I would recommend against it as I would think grinding that off could affect the structural integrity/stability of the handle. Also, I had a SEAL Pup Elite never had any issues with the handle like you're describing... Seems like you could just slightly change your thumb position?

Yeesh, I don't envy you (I hope you took that comment in jest by the way, as that's how I meant it)! Good luck with whatever you're studying for.

I guess I just don't see the necessity of having both a lower and upper guard. I just checked their website and SOG has several fixed blade, tactical and outdoor knives that don't feature an upper guard.

I only use that grip occasionally, so it's not that big of a deal... And I could just modify my grip (which is what I have been doing), but it's not nearly as comfortable and I don't have as much control over the blade (baby hands) when I do that. But if I don't have to make that compromise why should I? Thus the reason I asked about filing down the guard.

If it's safe to file down the guard, the knife is basically perfect in my eyes (for the price)... So why not strive for that? If I can't file it down... I'll probably sell it and spend a little extra and pick up something that DOES feel perfect.

I'm kind of leaning towards your advice though... I'm concerned that the nylon will begin to split further down the handle if I file it down. I think I'll wait to see if someone drops in who has first hand experience with sanding down the guard.

 

[Fixall]

handles glass fiber nylon isnt it? doubt filing it down would harm integrity but.......never tried and who knows until ya do and use it and find out.

i have the same model bought years ago...i find the guard design to be not a problem. move your thumb further over it for controlled cuts. that what i do. otherwise i find thumb placement on the guard to work fine.

Yep, glass reinforced nylon (not sure if grn differs from frn).

That's what I've been doing (bringing my thumb further forward on the blade), and it works fine. I just think it would be a lot more comfortable with a flush back.

I was talking about my standard seal pup having a partially serrated cutting edge, but what your seal pup elite has was probably an afterthought as well.

Ah gotcha. I tend to avoid serrated and partially serrated knives because I don't like having to deal with trying to sharpen them.

Thanks for the link to that thread! I'll check it out.

 

[b00n]

I think you'd be fine if you get some sand paper, a medium and a fine grit and just round off the top part, make it more comfortable but keep the slight flare like:

 

[Fixall]

I think you'd be fine if you get some sand paper, a medium and a fine grit and just round off the top part, make it more comfortable but keep the slight flare like:

You know what... That might be the winner. I didn't realize the blade was that low compared to the handle until you edited the picture. It looks like I can file down a decent amount of the handle before I hit steel.

Thanks.

 

[b00n]

No problem.

 

[Fixall]

I think I'll pick up some sandpaper this weekend. I've been wanting to sand down the handle on my Opinel No. 7, so I might as well start on that too. 220/400 for the Opinel and 80/220 for the SOG should do it. I guess I should probably pick up a mask too, if I'm going to be sanding down plastic.

This should be a fun little project I can do with one arm.

If worst comes to worst... I can just have a new handle for the Seal Pup made... Hell I might try my hand at making my own eventually.

 

[hiwa]

I've done this. I have used a Seal Pup as a bush knife in the past , and although it's not a bushcraft-type knife it did everything I needed it to. I sanded down the hump like the previous poster did. Note it won't lock well into the plastic molded sheath after, if that's what you have. Take a little at a time and sand it smooth. You can't put material back , so test it till you're happy with it.
I use much higher-end bush knives nowadays , but the seal pup is a good knife and can take fairly heavy use.
Never had a problem with the FRN handle.

 

[22-rimfire]

I don't see sanding that upper guard down to be a problem in terms of the integrity of the handle. (But it's your knife and you take the risk.) I'd slip in into a vise and use an electric sander myself and do it slowly. I bought one of the Seal Pup Elites when it first came out thinking the extra steel thickness would make it stronger for woods use. I used it for a couple years and it gradually made its way into my dormant knife pile. Currently, it has come out of that "pile" and I've carried it a couple times in the woods in the last 6 months. This is why I don't sell my older knives. Might use it.....

I have two sheaths for mine (kydex and leather). I always felt that the weak point with that knife design was the plastic handle as it just does not feel good in the hand. But SOG's design parameters (for cost point) pretty much dictated the plastic handle. It works very well overall as far as I'm concerned.

The old Field Pup was really a nice knife for the money and using. SOG claimed it was a pilot survival knife which I can see as a possible application since it is light, strong, and sharp. I own one and have owned a couple as that was one of the first knives that I would pick up and give as gifts to nephews. It was only lacking in the sheath department, but the sheath was certainly usable/serviceable. I'd take it over a typical Mora any day of the week.