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Struggling stropping on Dia-paste

Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
9
Hi all!

I've been sharpening my own knives for the better part of 2 years now and have decided to finally move on from the Sharpal green compound I've been using on my leather strops. I've had great success with this method, going from 300, 800 and 1200 grit then straight to my green compound leather strop. The hardest steel I have sharpened is m390 and it takes quite a decent time longer to strop than my other knives although not terribly long, maybe a couple minutes. I can get all my knives smooth shaving and get clean paper cuts on standard copy paper all day long. EDIT: I am using 1 micron DMT Dia-Paste

The reason I'm moving off from the green compound is because I carry a mini leather stop on my keychain everyday. I find my self growing tired of having to clean and reapply compound every couple weeks and have seen many knife users praise diamond compound's ability to last a very long time.

The problem I'm running into is that for the life of me, I can't seem to get a very clean edge on diamond like I can on green chromium oxide.

After my stone progressions I move to a strop as usual then perform a visual inspection with a loupe and do a fingernail test then a paper test.
-With the visual inspection, the bevel seems more cloudy than usual with no apparent damage to the edge itself.
-When I run it along my fingernail, the edge "catches" but feels significantly rougher than off the stones and also has a "bumpy" feeling similar to running a finger over goosebump skin. The paper test also is worse after stropping.

The effect is especially apparent on cheaper steels like 440A


I've done quite a bit of research on the issue and found several causes that I've already addressed:
1. Too much compound
2. Use the "smooth" side
3.Let it completely dry
4. Use VERY light pressure
5. Hold perfect angle (or slightly less)
6. Don't over strop

The only thing I have not tried yet is stropping on basswood. I'm willing to give it a try, but it's so frustrating to see so many other having seemingly easy success with the diamond compound on leather while I can't seem to figure it out.
Even it it does work out well for me on basswood, the fact still stands that my technique or strop making method is so crap it's making me feel like a knife noob again.

Please help me. I know I can't be the only one with this specific issue. Thanks!
 
Your hunch to try the paste on basswood is a good one. Any other smooth & fine-grained wood will do just as well, like maple, poplar, etc. Whatever's convenient to find for it. Basswood is popular because in some locales, it's easily found in cut sizes ideal for stropping. Hobby Lobby used to carry it for model carving in my area, but I don't think they do anymore. I'm firmly convinced that diamond compounds work much better on wood strops, both for polishing and for refining and protecting a very crisp apex. On softer substrates like leather, it's much too easy to round off the apex very quickly, which diminishes cutting aggression.

If you're looking for faster polishing, try DMT's 3 micron Dia-Paste on the wood. It was my favorite for very quickly polishing wear resistant steels like D2, S30V, etc. Follow with the 1 micron paste if you want to. But generally, I was very happy with just the 3 micron.

And as you've surmised, avoid using too much compound. A little bit goes a very long way. And you're correct in making sure to let it dry completely. Give it 24 - 48 hours for that. Otherwise, it'll still be too 'pasty' and gummy on the strop and will collect on your blade. Some of that might happen anyway, initially. But give it a little time for 'break-in' and stropping will improve with some use.
 
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