Struggling with electro-chem etching

G

GISSpecialist

Joined
Jul 16, 2008
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17
Hello;

I'm new to the forum and new to knife making. I'm hoping someone can help me improve my electro-chem etching. I bought an Etch-O-Matic kit and am not at all satisfied with my results so far.

I can't seem to get a sharp, clean mark that is evenly black. They come out uneven and "mottled." If I extend the etching time long enough to get an even, dark mark, the edges get fuzzy and a "halo" develops.

I'm making my own stencils, but I'm confident that they aren't my problem because I get the same results with the sample stencil that came in the kit. I've experimented extensively with every variable I can think of, but without much success.

Do I just need a better (more powerful) etcher? What am I doing wrong? It's very frustrating to make a beautiful knife but not be able to put a decent mark on it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
after you etch, sand the whole thing with 1000 or 2000 grit sandpaper. It will take off the halo and make everything crisp. This is assuming that you used DC to take material away, not just AC.
 
Wow, that was fast! This same question has sat on another forum for a week with no replies, so I really appreciate it. I'll give the 1000-2000 grit sanding a try. Thanks very much!
 
I'm sure you've looked into this, but as was suggested above, make sure you are using the DC setting to etch your relief and then without moving anything, switch to the AC to darken the etch.

Otherwise, make sure you're cleaning the blade well before etching. I always use a bit of acetone and clean the area to remove fingerprints, oils, etc. Be careful when you're using sandpaper to remove the halo. Make sure you're using a flat hard backing (piece of micarta works well) to avoid sanding into the etch and removing the darkened area. Ask me how I know about that!

--nathan
 
Thanks, Nathan. Yes, I've made that mistake, not with sandpaper but with the buffer. In trying to buff off the halo, I've buffed the color out of my etch.

I also read somewhere recently that I need to lift the etcher at 5 second intervals to allow off-gassing. I have not been doing this. Anything to it?

Thanks again,

Rick DuBois
 
Rick,

Gassing off, is a must; the logo turns out more crisp, if you do this.

Try this; after you have the stencil taped in place, apply a film of denatured alcohol, between the stencil and the blade surface. To accomplish this: Use a cotton swab to apply the alcohol to the surface of the stencil; cohesion will make the liquid run between the stencil and the metal. Now take a piece of paper towel and blot the surface of the stencil,
lightly. Now you are ready to etch!:thumbup:

This technique helps to accomplish two things; it keep the stencil from shifting, when you raise and lower the hand unit and it keeps the etching solution pooled over the area you want to etch.
As was said above, you always need to finish with a light sanding with 1500 grit or so.

Fred
 
Thanks, Fred. This is great info. I can't wait to try these tips.

One more question: How long do you guys find that you typically have to etch? I realize it varies with the power of the unit and the depth you want, but in broad terms, how long on DC and how long on AC for a good sharp mark? I ask because it seems to take much longer for me than the Etch-O-Matic instructions indicate.

Again, thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge with a newbie!:)

Rick
 
GISSpecialist said:
Thanks, Fred. This is great info. I can't wait to try these tips.

One more question: How long do you guys find that you typically have to etch? I realize it varies with the power of the unit and the depth you want, but in broad terms, how long on DC and how long on AC for a good sharp mark? I ask because it seems to take much longer for me than the Etch-O-Matic instructions indicate.

Again, thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge with a newbie!:)

Rick
Click to expand...
2 minutes etch 15 seconds mark
 
With my little home built etcher, I always use a "blot-up-blot-up-blot-up" type motion, i.e. frequent lifts of the etcher pad. I really think allowing gassing off will solve most of your problems.

Oh, I'm glad you found this site. It will be one of the best resources you'll find. There are many many superb craftsmen here, and the great thing is that they will all share freely with you to help you grow in your craft.

--nathan
 
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