Stryker Auto tuning questions

S

Scott321

Joined
Jul 20, 2016
Messages
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I posted this on the BM forum but haven't gotten any responses. Does anyone have experience with this knife? I cut and pasted my question below:

"Just picked up a new Stryker Auto. The blade has a little side to side play. Does it need breaking in and tuning with the pivot like the manual knives do?

Also, if I open it with the blade side down, knife parallel to the ground, the blade bounces off the stop and doesn't lock up. No issues in other orientations. Will this change with use or is this just a position I should not open it in?

Love the knife...I wish the original manual version was still in production except with an axis lock."

Edit: I'm referring to the 910, 912, and 913 in the last paragraph, not the 909 and 908.
 
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Scott321 said:
I posted this on the BM forum but haven't gotten any responses. Does anyone have experience with this knife? I cut and pasted my question below:

"Just picked up a new Stryker auto. The blade has a little side to side play. Does it need breaking in and tuning with the pivot like the manual knives do?

Also, if I open it with the blade side down, knife parallel to the ground, the blade bounces off the stop and doesn't lock up. No issues in other orientations. Will this change with use or is this just a position I should not open it in?

Love the knife...I wish the original manual version was still in production except with an axis lock."
Click to expand...
Both the 909 and the 908 Stryker are still available at a large B.C. Canada online retailer (they are not paid retailers AFAIK). If you don't mind ordering from Canada.

I recently bought the 908 SBK Stryker and even though I'm not overly fussy about the "S" part, it is a crackin' good knife.

August 7 2019: Looks like W&W is out of both 908 and 909 now.
 
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Stryker auto 9100 or 9101 ? Are push button plunger locks, they can not lockup until you remove your thumb from button. 9101 has a stronger spring. 9101 is a nice knife, I would say the same about the 9100 if they had not made the 9101, Elishewitz design I believe.
 
I've had a Stryker for at least 15 years, never been tuned. It works like it should out of the box. I'd send it in. You live in IL, your local dealer can handle shipping for you, for a fee. Mine charges $20, Benchmade service is free. Mine's been back twice.

You could clean it, flush with WD40, followed by a shot of Triflow. When mine gets sticky, thats solves it.

Yes it is an Elishewitz design, originally in ATS34, with his name on it, then they had a falling out, Benchmade wiped his name off everything. Classy right? They lost Terzuola at the same time.
 
Scott321 said:
I posted this on the BM forum but haven't gotten any responses. Does anyone have experience with this knife? I cut and pasted my question below:

"Just picked up a new Stryker Auto. The blade has a little side to side play. Does it need breaking in and tuning with the pivot like the manual knives do?

Also, if I open it with the blade side down, knife parallel to the ground, the blade bounces off the stop and doesn't lock up. No issues in other orientations. Will this change with use or is this just a position I should not open it in?

Love the knife...I wish the original manual version was still in production except with an axis lock."

Edit: I'm referring to the 910, 912, and 913 in the last paragraph, not the 909 and 908.
Click to expand...

Try tightening the pivot a tiny bit. This will get tid of the side to side hopefully and will lower the opening speed abit to prevent the bouncing off the stop pin.

You might have to put a tiny speck of purple or blue loctite on the pivot screw because they often back out with subsequent openings. Especially on autos where the blade is kicking against the frame forcefully.
 
Lapedog said:
Try tightening the pivot a tiny bit. This will get tid of the side to side hopefully and will lower the opening speed abit to prevent the bouncing off the stop pin.

You might have to put a tiny speck of purple or blue loctite on the pivot screw because they often back out with subsequent openings. Especially on autos where the blade is kicking against the frame forcefully.
Click to expand...

I tightened the pivot a little bit and it solved the bouncing/locking issue. Thank you! Loctite to follow.
 
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