stuff to take care of my knives

Z

ZippyDan

Joined
Sep 30, 2005
Messages
61
just need some general recommendations on products to keep my knives in tip top shape, fixed blades and folders

best oils
sharpeners
etc.

not really looking to spend lots of money for the best, but good quality is important as i have some expensive knives. basically i want best bang for the buck

im always looking for new tips and tricks in this regard too :)
 
Militec-1 is a really good oil for lubrication, though it doesn't do much for corrosion protection. It shouldn't be a problem though unless you have a lot of D2 or high carbon blades, and you don't use them a lot.

I will also recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Very easy to use, good results, and relatively inexpensive.

You may also want to pick up a T-6 driver, and maybe a set of small hex wrenches.
 
We started a new forum! :cool:

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underaged! said:
Militec-1 is a really good oil for lubrication, though it doesn't do much for corrosion protection. It shouldn't be a problem though unless you have a lot of D2 or high carbon blades, and you don't use them a lot.

I will also recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Very easy to use, good results, and relatively inexpensive.

You may also want to pick up a T-6 driver, and maybe a set of small hex wrenches.
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Hey "underaged" I totally agree with you on the Militec and I agree 100% on the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker being a great all round sharpening unit. I will go a couple of steps further though. I would go ahead and get the 2 extra sets of stones for the Sharpmaker. They are the Diamond stones and the Ultra Fine stones. There is a vendor on ebay who goes by "razorsharpknife" who usually has great deals on them.

Militec also has a really super high temp synthetic grease that is fabulous also. The other Brother was talking about "Break Free". I like that product for cleaning and repairs but I do personally like the Militec a little better for all purpose lube. This is really a great Forum and I love to compare notes with you guys. Oh on the hex/torx wrenches. Benchmade makes a nice little kit which I purchased which really does a great job. Later ON ;)
 
The best is Renaissance Wax used by high end collectors and museums.Get the stuff in the can.Also Tuff-cloth and Tuff-Glide are very good for corrosion,rust prevention.The Tuff-Glide is for lubrication. :thumbup: :)
 
I'm not sure what the best is anymore, but I tend to switch back and forth between Tuff Glide and Militec-1. I feel Militec-1 lubricates slightly better but doesn't provide the level of rust resistance that Tuff Glide does. I use Tuff Glide more often because I often have it out for rust resistance purposes, and as long as it's already in my hand, why not lube the pivot with it also, right? But both are really solid, and came out on top the last time I did any informal comparative testing, years ago.
 
I'm really digging FP-10, the lubrication is as good or better than militec's (in my experience) and the rust protection is about on par with breakfree CLP, which is very good.

The sharpmaker is a good recommendation, and it'll serve you well unless you need to reprofile a blade or repair signifigant damge. If you want to do that too, but still use the sharpmaker then you can get a cheap silicon carbide benchstone from sears or norton to hog steel, then finish off on the sharpmaker. Beltsanders work too, but I don't recommend those unless you have one already and are willing to practice alot on cheaper stuff so you don't ruin a good knife.

I'll also recommend some kind of strop, no need to get some fancy german leather deal. If you can find an old belt or scrap leather around a foot or two long and 1 inch wide that's perfect. Otherwise you can buy a new one for not much money, try handamerican leather hones. This will help in getting the sharpest edge no matter what grade stone you use and also remove the small burr left from normal sharpening.

A good tube of metal polish is a great thing to have. Get a tube of Simichrome, Flitz, metal-glo. etc. I use it on all my satin finished stainless blades that are carried often to keep them looking sharp and prevent rust from starting.

After the basics are taken care of it's really a whole lot of personal preference thrown in. Try out new things from time to time and see what works for you, like freehand sharpening with benchstones, the sandpaper/mousepad method, etc.
 
You can't do much once the "blue" is gone.
Except to re-blue.
Check out yor local gunstore for details.
BTW, that there SOG Bowie sure is a fine looking knife.
I figure anything these days in blued finish would be more of a wall hanger material.
Unless of course you coat it with something a little more durable like this perhaps ?
(http://www.lauerweaponry.com/duracoatcolors.cfm?colortype=stock&Category=220)

Krizzard, out

"...Whoever kills with the sword must be killed by the sword... "
- The New Testament, Revelation 13:10
 
Those are carbon steel yes? For touch up (cosmetic) bluing I like brownell's dicropan T-4 cold blue. It's not the fastest cold blue out there but it's very forgiving in its application, and also gives a nice deep black/blue color. When I say forgiving I meant it doesn't tend to streak or color unevenly, it polishes up quite nicely as well. To really do it right you'd have to take the knife apart and have it hot blued, but this would be expensive, difficult, and generally not worth the effort.
 
I recommend Tuf-Glide for protection. It has kept the mirror polish on my carbon blades and stopped rusting on some notorious rusters that I have.

I used to use it for lube as well until I got Militec. I honestly cannot tell the difference between Tuf Glide and Militec for lube purposes, but since I have gotten the Militec, I continue to use the Militec for lube. In fact, the Tuf Glide seems to dry drier than the Militec and therefore attract less fluff but I just gotta finish the Militec :(

If you want an all-in-one lube/protectant, you can't go wrong with Tuf Glide. And the price is reasonable.
 
Tuf-glide, metal-glo/flitz, torx/allen bits, steel, crock stick, strop, Cro, diamond/arkansas/alox stones, loctite, picks, hand cleaner for when you're done :)
 
A piece of corrugated cardboard is an excellent strop.
Bill
 
airyq said:
I recommend Tuf-Glide for protection. It has kept the mirror polish on my carbon blades and stopped rusting on some notorious rusters that I have.

I used to use it for lube as well until I got Militec. I honestly cannot tell the difference between Tuf Glide and Militec for lube purposes, but since I have gotten the Militec, I continue to use the Militec for lube. In fact, the Tuf Glide seems to dry drier than the Militec and therefore attract less fluff but I just gotta finish the Militec :(

If you want an all-in-one lube/protectant, you can't go wrong with Tuf Glide. And the price is reasonable.
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, you have to heat Militec to get the best out of it...

It was designed to be applied, then shoot a bunch of rounds through the gun to heat it up and then it is done...
Without the heat, it never compleatly 'fixes' itself to the metal...
Check out the balisong forums for a LOT of info on this... A lot of them swear by Militec, but only after the heating...
Use a hair drier, to get it ALMOST too hot to handle...That will not hurt the temper...
 
Militec and other thin film lubes require very little actual lubricant to do their job. The reason it's attracting dust is due to using too much. Put a drop of the lube on the side of the knifeblade, then wipe it off with a paper towel, what's left is how much lube you need for it to work properly.(it's considered a dry lubricant). Unfortunately it's kinda difficult to do this with a knife pivot, as you can't really wipe the excess off after application. I had a similar problem with the tuf-glide carrier not evaporating in my pivots, so they stayed wet and collected dust too.
 
i got some tuf glide and tuf cloth. neat. i noticed that they also make a tuf cloth marine which it says is useful for long term storage or more corrosive conditions (like the sea). im always one for playing it safe rather than sorry, and im wondering if theres any reason to not use the marine tuf cloth always and just skip the normal tuf cloth

along the same lines, would it be uneccessary overkill to use miltech and tuf glide/cloth? or is tuf glide really just a good solution for both lube and corrosion prevention?
 
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