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(stupid)Chisel Grind Sharpening?
- Thread starter GarageBoy
- Start date
Garageboy,
Sharpen the bevel. I then lightly use a fine stone on the flat side at as low an angle I can hold to dress the burr raise by sharpening the bevel side, be careful not too much on the flat side.
BTW I happen to like the chisel grinds.
Good luck,
Steve
Sharpen the bevel. I then lightly use a fine stone on the flat side at as low an angle I can hold to dress the burr raise by sharpening the bevel side, be careful not too much on the flat side.
BTW I happen to like the chisel grinds.
Good luck,
Steve
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2002
- Messages
- 7,636
I find chisel grinds the easiest to sharpen for that reason -- just one side to hone, with a burr to take off on the other side (though you do have to be careful not to start grinding an angle onto the non-bevel side).
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,308
I sharpen my chisel-ground Neck Peck just like these guys said. The only reason I don't care much for chisel grinds is that if you cut through something, the blade wants to "steer" toward the flat side.
---Jeffrey
---Jeffrey
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 3,831
Garageboy,
that is exactly how you sharpen a real woodworking chisel. Well, perhaps with a slight difference. Hardly any chisel comes ready to go to work right out of the box. You first take the chisel's flat side to a coarse hoen and scrub away until you smooth the surface. Chisels come with factory grindign marks that must be removed. Then you go to your medium and then fine stones until the back of the chisel is polished. This initial work is a pain but only need be done once. Then to sharpen a chisel you sharpen the edge to whatever degree you want on a coarse hone, then you switch to a fine hoen and rub both on the bevel and on the flat back to remove the burr and polish all surfaces. A well sharpened chisel cuts wood like a dream!
With chisel ground knives, you want the back to be smooth as well. Most people don't lay the backs of their knives flush with the stone to remove the burr for cosmetic reasons. By raising the flat off your sharpenign stone by a couple of degrees and going lightly, you can grind off the burr and minimize/eliminate any bevel from forming on the flat side.
that is exactly how you sharpen a real woodworking chisel. Well, perhaps with a slight difference. Hardly any chisel comes ready to go to work right out of the box. You first take the chisel's flat side to a coarse hoen and scrub away until you smooth the surface. Chisels come with factory grindign marks that must be removed. Then you go to your medium and then fine stones until the back of the chisel is polished. This initial work is a pain but only need be done once. Then to sharpen a chisel you sharpen the edge to whatever degree you want on a coarse hone, then you switch to a fine hoen and rub both on the bevel and on the flat back to remove the burr and polish all surfaces. A well sharpened chisel cuts wood like a dream!
With chisel ground knives, you want the back to be smooth as well. Most people don't lay the backs of their knives flush with the stone to remove the burr for cosmetic reasons. By raising the flat off your sharpenign stone by a couple of degrees and going lightly, you can grind off the burr and minimize/eliminate any bevel from forming on the flat side.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 3,831
Yes, for a woodworking chisel you sharpen the bevel side only. The flat side should be lapped flat and polished. And after that, you only hit the flat side with a fine hone when removing a burr.
I sharpen my woodworking chisels on a waterstone set-up from Lee Valley Tools, with their sharpening guides. The bevels of my chisels are set at 25 degrees and I have 26.5 degree microbevels on them.
I sharpen my woodworking chisels on a waterstone set-up from Lee Valley Tools, with their sharpening guides. The bevels of my chisels are set at 25 degrees and I have 26.5 degree microbevels on them.
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2002
- Messages
- 1,273
Just try to rest the bevel on the hone. If the bevel is wide enough, that's great, you can just press down and hone at the right angle. Otherwise, you'll have to use a magic marker or just guess the angle.
I recently made a G10 knife that has a chisel grind, for ease of sharpening. The edge angle is quite low (maybe a bit too low, it can't hold an edge very well) so I've got about one centimetre of bevel to rest along the honing surface. I just use various grits of sandpaper on a block of wood.
I recently made a G10 knife that has a chisel grind, for ease of sharpening. The edge angle is quite low (maybe a bit too low, it can't hold an edge very well) so I've got about one centimetre of bevel to rest along the honing surface. I just use various grits of sandpaper on a block of wood.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 3,831
GarageBoy:
I assume you are still talking about chisels, and not chisel ground knives.
Yes, to sharpen a chisel freehand juse the big bevel as your guide. You will want to lock your elbows into your body in order to help keep things nice and flat. Also, skew the chisel. Don't point the chisel directly in front of you, but point it at an angle, but still move it lengthwise along the stone. If you have your sharpening stone pointing lengthwise away from your body, you would be pushign and pulling the chisel straight away and towards your body, but the chisel should point at a 45 degree angle to the left (if you are right handed). This alsi improves stability. You don't want to round off the bevel and skewing helps keep things flat. Use the skew just for your coarse/medium stone sharpening. When using a fien hone, you want to point the chisel straight.
If you do a search on the web, you can find all kinds of info on sharpening chisels. Also, check your local libraries. There are tons of books out there that discuss chisel sharpening. If you can find it, try to read Leonard Lee's book on sharpening. It covers all kinds of tools, but the chsiel sharpening stuff is really interesting. If freehand chisel sharpening is tough, you can get various guides. There are simple one sthat clamp the sides of your chisel that you can find in any hardware store. Lee Valley Tools makes a very good guide as well, and there are others out there. Try the hardware store variety though, as they are pretty inexpensive ($10 US ish) and take care of the angle control for you.
I assume you are still talking about chisels, and not chisel ground knives.
Yes, to sharpen a chisel freehand juse the big bevel as your guide. You will want to lock your elbows into your body in order to help keep things nice and flat. Also, skew the chisel. Don't point the chisel directly in front of you, but point it at an angle, but still move it lengthwise along the stone. If you have your sharpening stone pointing lengthwise away from your body, you would be pushign and pulling the chisel straight away and towards your body, but the chisel should point at a 45 degree angle to the left (if you are right handed). This alsi improves stability. You don't want to round off the bevel and skewing helps keep things flat. Use the skew just for your coarse/medium stone sharpening. When using a fien hone, you want to point the chisel straight.
If you do a search on the web, you can find all kinds of info on sharpening chisels. Also, check your local libraries. There are tons of books out there that discuss chisel sharpening. If you can find it, try to read Leonard Lee's book on sharpening. It covers all kinds of tools, but the chsiel sharpening stuff is really interesting. If freehand chisel sharpening is tough, you can get various guides. There are simple one sthat clamp the sides of your chisel that you can find in any hardware store. Lee Valley Tools makes a very good guide as well, and there are others out there. Try the hardware store variety though, as they are pretty inexpensive ($10 US ish) and take care of the angle control for you.