So I have a stupid question for all you pros out there. I just finished my first knife and while sharpening noticed its thick at the edge. There is quite a bit of shoulder on it and want to thin it out before sharpening again. Can I just go back to the belt grinder? If so what grit? It complete so its been heat treated and the handle is on. If it matters, I am shaprening on a 1x30 at about 20-25 degrees or so. Any help would be appreciated.
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Stupid question
- Thread starter KFU
- Start date
Bailey Knives
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Oct 18, 2004
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Yes. I grind my knives to shape, put a bevel on them, heat treat, then grind some more. Just keep a bucket of water handy to dip the blade as soon as it gets too hot to touch with your bare hand (grind without gloves). I don't normally do this while the handle is still on, but it can be done. If you are planning on hand sanding, it may add a bit of difficulty to the entire situation, but with a machine finish, it should work out well.
Use new belts and start at a coarse grit, and work your way up. New belts generate less heat, and too much heat is the enemy of a good heat treat. I would probably start with a 60 grit belt and work my way up to about 600 grit, but I hand sand all my knives, so I don't know what grit a good machine finish should finish at. Maybe someone else can chime in on this point.
Use new belts and start at a coarse grit, and work your way up. New belts generate less heat, and too much heat is the enemy of a good heat treat. I would probably start with a 60 grit belt and work my way up to about 600 grit, but I hand sand all my knives, so I don't know what grit a good machine finish should finish at. Maybe someone else can chime in on this point.
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Bailey Knives
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I have done the whole "got excited and left out steps" thing. I once heat treated a knife (the whole knife, including the handle) when I realized that I had not drilled the pin holes yet. FYI, regular cobalt drill bits will not drill through hardened steel, no matter how many new ones you use!!
I almost did that with this one! So I reground up to 220 and it took alot off. I got into the top a fraction which sucks but oh well. How do you not get into the top if you take your grind full flat before heat treat? a more steep grind initially?
Jack O'Neill
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yea Chris , change your angle . Watch where your top line is going in relation to the edge . If it is going to high , then change your angle and or pressure , work more toward the edge and blend in the new grind angle . Hope I said that right , I'm not always to good at describing things .
Yeah Jack, you said it well! I guess that since I havent had much practice I am scared of screwing up th plunge so I tried to get that right and just ride it up. It was good until I sharpened and saw the thick edge. I thinned it out but just barely went into the top. The plunge is dead nuts center though!lol