Suehiro G8 vs W8

samuraistuart

samuraistuart

Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
3,158
Has anyone used both the G8 and W8 8000 grit Suehiro stones? If I understand correctly, the G8 has a SiC abrasive, while the W8 is AlOx. Is the G8 actually green colored?

I have the W8 and absolutely LOVE that stone. It has a very creamy feel to it. I don't use it often, as 6 micron is the highest I normally take my knives.

I'm just curious if anyone has used both, compared them, and what your impressions were. If it cuts faster than the W8, I may consider picking one up. Tools from Japan says that it has more bite to the edge than the W8, and that has me intrigued.
Thanks!
 
I don't the W8 but I do have the Suehiro G8 and I have not used it yet I just got it about 2 weeks ago and I planning on using it tonight the G8 is Green and is a Silicon Carbide stone I got it hoping it would cut steels like S110v better,have you ever tried sharpening S110v with your W8 stone if so how did it do.
 
The G8 is grey. I don't have the W8. Compared to some of my other resinoid/ceramic stones it seems to be a touch harder and does a better job on harder stainless. Still works very well on high RC carbon. Because it is a little harder than most it works great for microbeveling larger jumps without catching on the stone.

Lower RC stainless my Norton 8k is the best, and on higher RC carbon my Suzuki Ya are the go-to. There is a bunch of overlap, but in general.

Honestly the G8 doesn't seem to do any better on high Vanadium than my AlumOx stones, but on other premium stainless :thumbsup:.
 
Yes, our G8 stones are light green. However, I saw other colors for G8 bench stones on Rakuten.
 
Wade, I have yet to sharpen S110V. The highest alloyed steels I come across mostly are CPM M4 (64HRC) and ZDP189 (66HRC). The ZDP189 I don't have much experience with either, as the only knife I have in that steel is a Miyabi Santoku. I don't have a lot of pocket knives, nor do I do a lot of sharpening other than knives I am making.

It's not really a stone that I "need", but that won't stop me! Like I said, the highest alloy steels I'm likely to sharpen are M4 and ZDP, but I run my custom knives hard, especially kitchen knives. 65HRC. Cru Forge V at that hardness level is noticeably, hmmmm how should I say, "different" to sharpen than the other steels I use/sharpen. Like 52100, O-7, O1, 1095, AEBL. I have the EEF DiaSharp, and that will handle any steel out there, but I don't care for it that much. It's OK, just curious as the the SiC stone at 8k. I use the 8" bench stones, no WE or EP type systems.
 
wade7575 said:
HeavyHand are you sure you have the Suehiro G8 mine is a very lite color of green here is a picture of one in the link.

https://www.gritomatic.com/collections/suehiro/products/suehiro-g8-8000-edge-pro
Click to expand...
Got mine from Toolsfromjapan. I guess its a bit greenish grey/pale grey. To me more grey than green.

samuraistuart samuraistuart I believe you'll like that stone. I use mine either as a finisher followup with my Juumma stones, which are extremely hard but don't have a finishing stone in the lineup.

Is a hard finisher so catching on the edge is not common, and it doesn't dish much either. It only loads up if you apply too much pressure, so most of the time it doesn't even need a nagura and can just be cleaned up as it gets flattened. Between a rub with a fingertip cleans it up fine. So it works great for whatever, but really stands out for microbeveling, even on a somewhat rough-set edge.
 
HeavyHanded and to everyone else reading this thread take a look into this product I got a few for myself and a few of my friends got them as well and really like them a lot and they seem to work better then a nagura stone,I watched a video on youtube I think the channel was called Burrfectionist or something like that and talks about the best way to clean your water stones.I have to these take off much less of the stone and it cleans them fast without removing hardly any of the stone in comparison to a nagura stone,they are made from with a lite grit in them and they seem to wear really well to,the medium grit seems to work the best for stones that have loaded up with metal filings.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-knife-Rust-Eraser-Sabitoru-M-Made-in/302609499214?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
HeavyHanded said:
Lower RC stainless my Norton 8k
Click to expand...
That's so cool.
After all of my sharpening farting around it turns out that practically my second stone that I bought after giving up on junk (department store arkansas stone "kits") . . .
first I bought a King 1200 then after many, many years . . . when that couldn't fix roundy too steeply ground factory edges inside of a week and half of rubbing . . . I finally bought the Norton 700, 4000 and 8000 to "fill in".
After getting just astounding edges from ALL of those used together I went off in search of "better" sharpening stones.

And here we are back at the Norton 8000

hahahaha
yes it is great stone.
 
samuraistuart said:
Wade, I have yet to sharpen S110V. The highest alloyed steels I come across mostly are CPM M4 (64HRC) and ZDP189 (66HRC).
Click to expand...
Having had a fling, a whirlwind summer of passion and madness, not to mention the tumultuous autumn and winter of sultry excess . . .
Once the makeup and sartorial splendor are left in the living room and the morning light streams in on the wreckage . . .

I must say CPM M4 (64HRC) and ZDP189 (66HRC) both maintain the most attractive, irresistible, depth of fascination and companionship in my view.
 
I like the S110v steel Wowbagger because it's edge seems to last a longtime before you need to sharpen it again but it is a pain to work with,I have a 2 Gayle Bradley folders in M4 and 2 of the Manix 2's in M4 and they take a very sharp edge and seem to have not bad edge retention I also have a Sukenari Gyuto made in ZDP-189 and it seem to really hold it's edge well to.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top