Suggest a Japanese Wet Stone to sharpen my Shun please?

That stone is very good for the money. It will serve you well for "normal" sharpening. If you need to reprofile the blade or to repair a badly chipped edge you may want a coarser stone.
 
should I get a 1000/3000? or a 1000/6000 grit? I'm a little confused what would work best for a Shun knife...or most knives in this category.
 
The 1000/6000 is a nice stone, but we warned that you will need to get something to dress it, especially the 6000 side which is quite soft
 
Hey JinxCanada,
I own that stone and I can say that it is indeed excellent. The 1000 grit is seems finer than other comparative 1000's so for any extensive sharpening (chips etc.) or re profiling you'd need a coarser grit. However for just dull-to-shaving sharpness these will do the trick. Additionally if you sharpen with the 1000 stone it always produces a wonderful slurry which, after finishing on the 100 side, I smear on the 6000 side which helps work out any last micro-abrasions.
Cheers!
 
btw guys I really appreciate all the help! I'm not afraid of learning new things and working hard to get and keep my new investments razor sharp. I just want to know from you guys...who are the experts!
 
Dressing means using another stone or diamond plate to keep it flat and ding free.
 
you spent the money for the Shun. I suppose you could have gotten a cheaper knife and still be able to cut with it. Why not spend the extra money for the Shun waterstone? Just be sure to watch youtube videos (I recommend Murray Carter) and go to the sharpening section of bladeforums and read the stickies to learn how to properly sharpen. It wouldn't hurt to learn how to sharpen using a cheaper knife also and not your Shun knife.
 
should I get a 1000/3000? or a 1000/6000 grit? I'm a little confused what would work best for a Shun knife...or most knives in this category.

Don't torture yourself with these things. Murray Carter says it clearly here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5stV_1kID-U

"99% technique, 1% tools". With either stone and decent (not god-like) skills, your Shun will perform better than 99.9% of the knives on earth. It's not rocket science but some theory helps. For information about edge geometries and sharpening you should consider reading "An edge in the kitchen" by Chad Ward.
 
the king 1000/6000 is a good starter stone.

If it was me, I'd grab a bester 1000 and a suhiro rika 5000. They're not the 'best' but they're a great started set that you won't outgrow.
 
These stones are effective because they are designed to wear away as you sharpen, which assures fresh, sharp particles are exposed to abrade the blade efficiently.
So they slowly wear to concave as you sharpen. Trying to sharpen on a concave stone screws up the ideal of presenting the blade to the stone at a consistent angle and will lead to you convexing your blade edge more than intended.
So you'll want/need a diamond plate of some kind to flatten the stone periodically as a form of routine maintenance.

HTH

what does "dress it" mean exactly?
 
Green Brick of Joy, anyone?
+1 on that. Naniwa Aotoshi 2000. Great stone.

As for the diamond plate that isn't too expensive....I think "Smith" sells diamond stones at a lower price than DMT or Atoma. Ezeelap is another diamond stone company.
 
My only concern with a Shun/Kai stone is that they bought it from someone who sells said stones under their own brand name and marked it up.
 
Stuart, in your opinion, is that stone and a coarse diamond plate that would also double as a flatterner be a good "1.5" stone solution for most folks if you also had a strop? I have read that when really muddy, the green brick cuts like a 1000 grit but when a bit dryer, it leaves a finish almost like a 3000-4000 grit stone.
+1 on that. Naniwa Aotoshi 2000. Great stone.

As for the diamond plate that isn't too expensive....I think "Smith" sells diamond stones at a lower price than DMT or Atoma. Ezeelap is another diamond stone company.
 
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