Suggest a model for me to hunt down

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Jan 24, 2012
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I am looking at getting a Fiddleback sometime this summer (this should give me enough time to find "the one" I hope). My question is on the handles. I have a stupid hand that is hard to find knives where the handles are really comfortable for extended use. I have a narrow palm but long skinny fingers. Which model do you guys think would best fit my hand? I should also add I am looking at the models with at least 4 inch blade.
 
I have the same type of hands. My number one recommendation is the Terrasaur which has a blade length just over 4 inches. I would also recommend the Bear Paw (similar blade length) if you can find one with a thicker handle. The primary thing I look for in a Fiddleback is handle thickness, but I have found that handle height, handle contouring, flat tangs, and "openness" or neutrality of handle design are all important. My Terrasaur has all of those qualities. There are other important variables as well.

If you are looking for an even larger knife, I have a friend with long fingers, joarthur, who has had luck with the Camp Nessmuk and Woodsman. I have been on the search for a Woodsman myself for a couple months.

I have learned a lot on this subject through months of constant correspondence. If you are interested in more discussion send me an email at knmiller71 at gmail dot com.
 
Marl71 has a very strong point. The handles on our handmade knives vary greatly in thickness. This is because I carve each one by hand. Some sets of scales are thicker, some thinner. Sometimes that is the difference. Other times when I finally dig in and find a pleasing curve, the rest of the handle shape becomes thin, or stays thick. It is quite variable.

I think there are many models that would suit you. The Sneaky Pete is probably going to be a good one, and the new Maverick style handle. The Bear paw is another one. These knives feature wider tangs, and so work well for long fingers. The Maverick or drop point Maverick and Sneaky Pete will allow multiple grip locations and your narrow palm could be quite an advantage with those.

Keep in mind the satisfaction guarantee. You don't have to wear out your credit card to find one that fits you. Send the next one back if it isn't your comfortable user knife. Send back the one after that. We'll keep sending them to you till you get one to cherish.
 
Keep in mind the satisfaction guarantee. You don't have to wear out your credit card to find one that fits you. Send the next one back if it isn't your comfortable user knife. Send back the one after that. We'll keep sending them to you till you get one to cherish.

Could it get any better than this? And if I may testify from personal experience with Andy, he means every word of his guarantee. No special clubs here, everyone gets great service.
 
One other thing I forgot to mention. It's worth taking the time to call or email with questions. It is difficult to ascertain something like handle thickness from a picture. Phillip at Fiddleback Forge has done a great job answering my questions, and dealers are also happy to help in my experience.
 
As someone who also has hands with long fingers relative to hand width, here are the handle-shape factors that make a handle comfortable for me:

Top length.
Bottom length.
Circumference.
Palm swell location.
Pommel shape.

Top Length: In some grips, such as pinch and saber, fingers align more diagonally on a handle than in other grips, such as a hammer. Longer fingers cause fingers to align at a more acute diagonal angle, what Karl (Marl71) amusingly refers to as Diagonal Finger Syndrome. So it stands to reason that a handle has to be longer so that the handle will extend to the edge of one’s palm. For a pinch grip, the key distance is from the side indentations for thumb and index finger knuckle to the top end of the handle. For a saber grip, the key distance is from the index finger indentation on the underside of the handle to the top end of the handle.

Bottom length: Bottom length is important in large blade knives because all four fingers need to be able to fit on the handle. As Phil (Comprehensivist) has noted, the pinky needs enough room to make its surprisingly strong contribution to a secure grip.

Circumference: For someone with long fingers, I doubt if there’s any Fiddleback handle with a big enough circumference to leave a gap between the fingernail of the middle finger and the muscle at the base of the thumb in a hammer grip. For me that's also true for a saber grip. (I haven’t held a camp knife, which might be the exception.) But thick is definitely better than thin.

Palm swell location: Because long fingers align somewhat diagonally in pinch and saber grips, a palm swell’s location affects the actual distance that the middle finger takes diagonally along a handle. For me the palm swell's location farther back on the Bear Paw's handle adds to the distance the middle finger has along the handle, making that part of the grip very comfortable. However, the last 1/3 of the rest of the handle is comparatively short. Even at five inches in length, the handle stops about 3/8” from the edge of my palm. In contrast, my Bushfinger, which also has a 5-inch handle, extends close enough to the edge of my palm so that there’s no hot spot. I think there are two reasons for this: (1) The Bushfinger has a longer useful top handle length. The edge of its front handle, where it meets the blade, is cut fairly close to 90 degrees, in turn causing the side indentations to be located farther forward on its handle than on the Bear Paw, whose handle front is cut back at more of an angle. (2) The BF’s palm swell is farther forward than on the Bear Paw. For me this means my hand “seats” farther forward on the BF than on the BP. My index and middle fingers are a bit squeezed -- they don’t have the space they get on the Bear Paw -- and my thumb hangs out a little more over the front edge of the handle, but the pinky has room.

Pommel shape: I’ve reluctantly sold the three Bear Paws I tried, but as I remember, the top aft inch or so of the Bushfinger handle curves downward just a bit more, relieving any bite into my palm, even though it stops 1/8” or so from my palm's edge. Also, the BF has a hook on the underside end that locks the pinky in place. Handles like those on the Hiking Buddy and Bushcrafter really curve down and are super comfortable in a pinch grip. It’s when their flared sides lay against the palm that they can jab the palm, as in a saber grip.

A couple of suggestions I’d offer:

1. Figure out how long a handle has to be for it to extend all the way to the end of your palm in each of the grips you use. You can measure key distances on another knife with a long handle or on a racquet handle, marking the beginning points with strips of blue tape, or even a broomstick and mark key points with a pen. Then look for handles with that length.

2.Shark one knife and then you can refer more usefully to the excellent threads that compare different models. If you know the knife you sharked is not right for you, take up Andy’s satisfaction guarantee and return it and try another. Getting the Bushfinger and then comparing it to a Woodsman in Nathan’s (Thurin) comparison photos is what caused me to act on Phil’s suggestion that I try a Woodsman. Like my Camp Nessmuk, the Woodsman handle extends to the edge of my palm and has room for all my fingers on the underside. Both knives have handles 5 1/3” long.

3. Follow the flea market to get a sense of resale values. If you see a model at a price low enough so that you can re-sell it if it isn’t right, consider buying it.

4. Get a gold membership so that you can PM sellers on flea market posts and ask them for dimensions, such as handle thickness and length. (Thanks to all of you whom I’ve pestered with such inquiries.)

You didn’t say how big your hands are. Mine are large. But one thing I’ve learned: Large hands with long fingers and relatively narrow palms given the length of the fingers are not the same as normally shaped large hands.

You are wise to take your time. Good luck!
 
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Thanks, Phil, for the kind words, and again for your suggestion that I try a Woodsman. Getting it, plus the Bushfinger and a W.A. Surls with a fat handle, has rounded out my thinking about handles.
 
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Nice write up, Jim. To paraphrase Phil's advice to me 5 months ago, there is no substitute for getting a knife in hand. Although some of us like to measure everything in every possible way, some things are unquantifiable about finding a great knife.
 
I have small hands with short fingers ( well medium size hand and finger for female but definitely short compare to male) and I am not very scientific. for the big knives, with big/thick handle with my short fingers - the palm swelling fit me better when it is more posterior. I think it happens because higher pulm swelling is getting into the most narrow space between she swelling below base of the thumb ( calls thenar area in anatomy) and base of 3,4th fingers. the knives with long, narrow "neck" which pushing palm swelling beck to 4,5 fingers works better. first finger groove also help overcome this problem. This does not apply to long knives with thin handles like ladyfinger, scorpion. in fact, I do not like palm swelling as it. I prefer slightly curved backward shape Nessmuk, Osprey Raptor or mamushi. Camp nassie has minimal swelling and 1 finger groove.
I looked into Nessmuck and Asp ( both 4 ') and I they have have kind of rounded butt, when I slided both of then forward mimicking long fingers - they do not hurt pulm at all, even if stick into it.
 
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