Suggested edge profile and knife opener

Q

Quy4n8

Joined
Nov 27, 2002
Messages
659
I have two questions. First, I have seen a small attachment that one can put on the back of a blade to turn a standard lockback knife into a one hand opener. It appears to be a small clamp. Do any of you know where I could get one?

Second, from everything I have read here, edge geometry is most important to edge life. I have a pocket knife which I am going to reprofile. I would like your input as to what angle you would suggest. I have an edgepro so controlling the angle should be fairly simple. The blade is 3” long, made from ATS-34 hardened to somewhere between 59-61 Rc. I will use the knife for almost any reasonable purpose. Cutting cardboard, paper, whittling, cutting fruit, etc. Being an average size pocket knife, it will not see any “hard” use under normal circumstances. Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have.

Richard
 
Richard, what you are looking for is called The Bandit. There are two sizes, depending on blade spine thickness, I believe. I know you can get them from Smoky Mountain, I didn't find them at 1SKS, but others may have them as well. I'm not sure they work on all knife shapes, but they are only about $5 +S/H, so it might be worth the try.
Good luck.

Bill
 
Thanks Bill,

That is exactly what I am looking for. The blade is flat ground, so it might work, but for $5.00, if it doesn't, it was still worth the try.

Richard
 
Can't really go wrong with reprofiling the edge to 15 degrees per side, and then putting on a 20 degree per side micro-bevel for the final edge. I have gotten good resluts from reprofiling my edges to 15 degrees per side on the EdgePro, and then using the fine and ultra fine rods for the Sharpmaker to put on the 20 degree per side final edge. This makes touching up the edge a breeze because you can just give it a few swipes on the sharp maker and be ready to get back to business.

I think I heard that the 20 degree setting on the EdgePro may not be exactly the same as the 20 degree (40 degree total) on the Sharpmaker? This is why I usually set the final edge with the Sharpmaker because I know it will be the same for touch ups.
 
Richard,

Unless you're worried about the knife hitting an errant staple while cutting cardboard, I'd take the angle down as low as you dare and put a microbevel on it for durability and ease of sharpening/resharpening. The beauty of this, which I fould out with a few folders, is that your knife can lose its hair-popping (or better) edge and still cut remarkably well. Using this technique, my sabre flatground Delica outcuts my full flatground Calypso Jr. (which hadn't been reprofiled in such a manner).

WadeF,

If you make your microbevel with the EdgePro, you can surprize yourself nicely and still easily touch up with the Sharpmaker.
 
I agree with everything said so far.
It will help if you decide which system you intend to use for the actual cutting edge.

You might be disappointed if you go back and forth from the Edge Pro to the Sharpmaker.


I think the perfect solution is to never ask the Sharpmaker to work on any part of the blade but the actual cutting edge.
It's not designed to do anything like re profiling or even thinning the back bevel .It can do it but will take all day.

The very fine ceramic is great for the final few swipes to finish of any remainder of 'burr' and prepare the edge for that 'first cut'.
 
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