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Suggestion for "slippery" Mcustas
- Thread starter Lavan
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2005
- Messages
- 322
Looks good.
What tool did you use? Just an ordinary triangular file? I guess that would work, since bolster steel is softer than blade steel.
I've tried to use a brand new file to put some thumb notches into the spine of my Schrade skinning knife (tang is stamped "Schrade +" steel....I think it's 440HC), with poor success. I thought file steel was harder than blade steel! Would you know what else can I try on blades?
Thanks in advance!
What tool did you use? Just an ordinary triangular file? I guess that would work, since bolster steel is softer than blade steel.
I've tried to use a brand new file to put some thumb notches into the spine of my Schrade skinning knife (tang is stamped "Schrade +" steel....I think it's 440HC), with poor success. I thought file steel was harder than blade steel! Would you know what else can I try on blades?
Thanks in advance!
NUTTIN works on blades. I decided once to put grooves on an Endura behind the hole. Oh yeah, sure. I got a ....scratch.... started.
But on the Mcusta, just used a triangle file.
Edited to add that an abrasive WHEEL on a Dremel might cut a blade, but be CAREFUL!!! Wheels chip and blades get caught an all sortsa bad stuff can happen.
But on the Mcusta, just used a triangle file.
Edited to add that an abrasive WHEEL on a Dremel might cut a blade, but be CAREFUL!!! Wheels chip and blades get caught an all sortsa bad stuff can happen.
Cougar Allen
Buccaneer (ret.)
- Joined
- Oct 9, 1998
- Messages
- 75,795
Lookin' good! 
Nice work.
A couple of things worth trying on hard blades and such:
* files meant for power saw blades/chains. These are very hard and hardwearing. I have used round ones for adding serrations and a flat one for coarse sharpening.
* tungsten carbide saws. Supposedly you can cut ceramics and glass with these. I have a wire saw blade that's covered in tungsten carbide crystals, and it bit well into a Sanelli kitchen blade (56HRC) and showed no wear. Cutting through the whole blade took some elbow grease as well though.
* files covered with diamond or tungsten, quality ones can be expensive. Coarse enough ceramic files are usually not tough enough when force is applied on a small area, on corners. The "cinder" just falls apart.
A couple of things worth trying on hard blades and such:
* files meant for power saw blades/chains. These are very hard and hardwearing. I have used round ones for adding serrations and a flat one for coarse sharpening.
* tungsten carbide saws. Supposedly you can cut ceramics and glass with these. I have a wire saw blade that's covered in tungsten carbide crystals, and it bit well into a Sanelli kitchen blade (56HRC) and showed no wear. Cutting through the whole blade took some elbow grease as well though.
* files covered with diamond or tungsten, quality ones can be expensive. Coarse enough ceramic files are usually not tough enough when force is applied on a small area, on corners. The "cinder" just falls apart.