Suggestions for a hawk blade folder?!?!

[rogerschrisj]

I am looking for a folder with a hawk style blade. I will be using it at a used parts yard. I will be cutting radiator hoses, belts, zip ties, rope, and all kinds of things. I have tried a lot of different types of blades and the hawk style blade like the spyderco merlin and smith&wesson cutting horse work well for me. I need something with a very strong reliable lock, a decently strong tip and a good steel. A good warranty wouldn't hurt either. I would like to keep the price around the $100.00 range. It doesn't have to be "high end" just quality. Also a reason or two on why you suggest a certain knife would be nice. Thanks everyone.

 

[EricV]

SE Tasman salt. The tip is thick for a hawkbill, and h1 isn't very likely to break, but might bend if you really do something odd with it. Spyderco's lock backs are tough as nails. Only thing that might get you is that its pinned construction, and I'd imagine screwed construction would be better for a knife that's going to take that much of a beating.

 

[Hitzy]

I'd get 4 Byrd crossbill full serrated models for cutting that stuff...for under $100.
Either that or the Harpy. I would want something harder and tougher then H1 for cutting that stuff.
Thing with the Crossbills is they are cheap enough to use and abuse, and you won't feel bad beating the crap out of it.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I'd get 4 Byrd crossbill full serrated models for cutting that stuff...for under $100.
Either that or the Harpy. I would want something harder and tougher then H1 for cutting that stuff.
Thing with the Crossbills is they are cheap enough to use and abuse, and you won't feel bad beating the crap out of it.

Not that I mean to be a stickler, but you do realize that harder and tougher are opposite ends of the spectrum, right? At Spyderco's booth at SHOT a few years ago I recall them having a blade to one of their H1 folders sitting in one of their cases and it was bent 90 degrees without cracks. The work-hardening properties of H1 cause it to have a tough body but a hard edge.

That being said I agree that the Crossbill would be an excellent choice. Works great, doesn't break the bank, and will hold up well under heavy usage. :thumbup:

 

[Resist]

I think I would go with the tasman salt as well. Im sure the crossbill is a good knife but for a hard working knife, I would spend the money to get the tasman.

 

[Noctis3880]

I'd put my vote in for a Tasman Salt as well. I'm not sure how strong the lock is, but unless you're whacking something hard with the spine, it shouldn't fail.

I personally prefer the plain edge variant because I like to be able to maintain and sharpen my knives, and it seems a non-serrated edge is less of a hassle. I also feel that I can make up for the softer edge by mirror polishing the edge on my paper wheels, which in theory ought to work harden the edge somewhat.

Anyways, I find the Tasman Salt to be a better utility knife than my Spyderhawk. The smaller size and jimping allows you to apply more force to the blade without sacrificing control, making for easier cuts.

 

[scotchleaf]

I have 2 crossbills: very nice knives (and for the price, you could buy one to use and more than 1 spare for the price of a tasman salt)

 

[vegasracer]

Have you looked at the A. G. Russell Beak? It's (IMHO) surprisingly good for the money, and then some.

 

[defuse kit]

Another vote for the Crossbill SE. The full serrated edge is amazing for rubber. I frequent the junkyard and find my Tenacious SE my go-to knife for rubber, like radiator hoses. The Byrd line is great, well under budget, and you can beat it up without feeling guilty. I think it'll be difficult to get twice the utility out of the Tasman.

 

[CL01]

Spyderco's Tasman & Spyderhawk Salts are nice, especially with their H1 steel, which work hardens & doesn't rust.

5.11 makes a couple Karambits that are well made. I don't know if they're still making them, though. The CUB Journeyman was light & had 154CM blade steel, but I thought the build was a little on the light side. The CUB Master has S30V blade steel & better construction. It was heavier, but I think it'd be much more durable. You should be able to find either model for under $100.

I think Boker Plus has a CLB designed Kbit that's not bad, either. I believe it has 440C blade steel.

If you're totally wanting a Kbit, you shouldn't have a problem one that'll fit both your needs & budget.

Good luck.

 

[2bkc]

Don't forget the Kershaw Talon II.

Sandvik 14C28N
Handle: Textured black G-10
Blade Length: 2 7/8 in. (7.3 cm)
Closed Length: 4 in. (10.1 cm)
Overall Length: 6 7/8 in. (17.5 cm)
Weight: 3.2 oz.
Tip up or tip down carry.
Made in the USA
MSRP: $99.95


Kershaw has one of the best warranties in the business.

 

[Planterz]

I carry a PE Tasman Salt. I used to carry a SE Tasman, but I found that when doing draw cuts the serrations tend to bind and bunch rather than tear through like they do on other SE edges. As long as you keep it sharp it'll do just fine without serrations. If I were personally cutting the stuff you will be, I'd have with me a PE Tasman and a SE Atlantic/Saver, and use each for what they excel at individually.

 

[rogerschrisj]

Thanks guys for all the input. I am seriously looking at the salt series knives. I like the fact that there is no rust issues to worry about since I'll be outside pulling parts and sweating like a pig. I also like the fact that view have a strong tip and a lock back mechanism. What I don't like is the pinned construction and frn handles. For the price point I will probably try the bird crossbill. I love the tenacious. It is a lot of knife for the money. But it still isn't quite what I'm looking for. The Kershaw looks interesting. Does it come serrated also? Any thoughts on the spyderco merlin or a harpy with g10, carbon fiber, or similare type handle materials? I am also rulling out karambits because of the blade to handle ratio that they have.