Suggestions for expanding sharpening gear

[lead slinger]

Hello guys. I feel like this is my first thread. I'll start by saying I really appreciate the info you guys provide on this site. I have learned alot since I became a member here.

On to the topic. I'm starting to aquire more knives know than usual and my only sharpening system is the sharpmaker. Im trying out different blade steels, fixed blade, folders, and have to set the bevel on most of my new knives with the sharpmaker so they are compatible with it. I do have the diamond stones but I never fully get where I want with the bevel before I get frustrated with the energy and time spent. Energy meaning high reps not forceful sharpening.

I'm wanting a faster way to set my bevels and then maintain on the sharpmaker. I know there are lots on this topic but is overwhelming trying to find the right thread. I want a quality system that works well for long fixed blades down to lady bug spydercos. I'm not interested in learning how to free hand at this point. I'm also not looking for anything electric.

Hopefully you guys can chime in on some pros and cons for some of the systems you really enjoy. Thanks in advance friends.

 

[bgentry]

You want a much more abrasive stone, or stones. I would suggest either diamond (like the DMT XXC or XC) or Silicon Carbide (like the Norton Coarse or Coarse/Fine combo). But you say you don't want to freehand. Which means you either need to build a jig of some sort, or buy a true guided system like the edge pro.

A "jig" could be as simple as a binder clip attached to the back of the blade to help you keep the right angle. Or you could build (or maybe buy) an adjustable sharpening ramp. I built one a while back and it helped me get to the next level with sharpening. This video inspired me to do it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXhrqfV5jvs

The Edge Pro is supposed to be really, really precise and not that hard to use. I have never used one myself.

Good luck.

Brian.

 

[Rey HRH]

You said faster way to set your bevels. Fast for me is using my ken onion workshop with the blade grinder attachment.

 

[lead slinger]

Thanks for the responses guys.

bgentry - I was thinking either edge pro or wicked edge. Would like to learn more about them and which one if either would be more versatile.

Rey HRH - how hard is it to overheat the edge for a beginner on that thing? That was the main issue I had with going electric, ruining the edge temper. And also, would it be usable on a thick blade like a bk2 I bought a couple of months ago?

 

[bucketstove]

Hi,
Are you using scrubbing stroke with sharpmaker diamonds?
That would be faster than single stroking , more than 1 pass per second

Another way to speed it up even more is to
wrap coarse sandpaper (100 grit and under) around your medium or fine rods,
secure with tape or paper/binder clips

Sharpmaker diamond rods are 400 mesh , or 40 microns or P360 or J400, where as P100 is 162 microns, four times as coarse , so it should be much faster


OTOH, a jig can be as simple as a one/two pieces of flat wood and some paper ... use a under $10 hardware store stone or dollar tree stone

Its just a triangle, you don't even have to do any math yourself just punch in rise/thickness and desired angle and 90° into triangle-calculator to get the run/distance from end of "table"
PaulSellersKnifeSharpeningSystem.png

 

[stitchawl]

Hi,
Are you using scrubbing stroke with sharpmaker diamonds?
That would be faster than single stroking , more than 1 pass per second

Another way to speed it up even more is to
wrap coarse sandpaper (100 grit and under) around your medium or fine rods,
secure with tape or paper/binder clips

Sharpmaker diamond rods are 400 mesh , or 40 microns or P360 or J400, where as P100 is 162 microns, four times as coarse , so it should be much faster


OTOH, a jig can be as simple as a one/two pieces of flat wood and some paper ... use a under $10 hardware store stone or dollar tree stone

Its just a triangle, you don't even have to do any math yourself just punch in rise/thickness and desired angle and 90° into triangle-calculator to get the run/distance from end of "table"
PaulSellersKnifeSharpeningSystem.png

Very clever way to set an angle! I like it. A jig that anyone can easily make!

Stitchawl

 

[Rey HRH]

Thanks for the responses guys.

Rey HRH - how hard is it to overheat the edge for a beginner on that thing? That was the main issue I had with going electric, ruining the edge temper. And also, would it be usable on a thick blade like a bk2 I bought a couple of months ago?

With a thick blade, the blade grinder attachment would be better, maybe even required. With regards to the edge temper, to the purist, sure using a power belt will have a likelihood of ruining the temper. But, on the other hand, most production knives are sharpened using a belt grinder.

I think the key is having a light touch, you want to use the speed of the belt to do the removing of the metal from the blade and not the pressure. You can also have a container of water to dunk the blade in periodically. I don't really do the water frequently. I just frequently check my work and that gives the blade time to cool off.

 

[Sticky]

Get a DMT aligner clamp it to your blade and use it with a bench stone to start getting the feel of free hand. Eventually you wont need the thing but you'll know how to use a stone finally.
Someday, somewhere, at some time, that nagging feeling of knowing you still don't know how to sharpen will catch up with you...grab the bull by the horns and start now. A cheap Norton India Combination stone followed by ceramic works very well and is cheap. If you don't mind to spend more for a cleaner less messy system, Course DMT followed by finer DMT and/or Spyderco fine ceramic and Ultra fine if you want to go further. Develop the skill...you won't be sorry you spent the effort acquiring this valuable and seemingly enigmatic skill. Once you can confidently pull up a burr and have a nice looking bevel, a cheap set of crocks is also a good way to finish and to maintain for a long time. I guess its a guided system but you will have already done the hard part. As much as I love free handing, Crocks are still killer finishers/maintainers.

 

[bgentry]

bgentry - I was thinking either edge pro or wicked edge. Would like to learn more about them and which one if either would be more versatile.

That's a matter of debate. I can tell you some general things. But my disclaimer is that I have NEVER used either system. Just watched videos and read about both systems for many years now.

A. Edge pro is less money.
B. Edge pro has less setup time and record keeping, since there is no clamp.
C. Wicked edge is more precise because it's clamped. It's very repeatable *if* you keep records of where and how you clamp each blade, and the angles used.
D. Wicked edge is more "brainless" because it's clamped.
E. Edge pro is more flexible and more controlled by the user because there's just a table and no clamp. This means that you can hold the blade resting on the original blade stock (thick part near the spine on some blades), or the primary grind, or another other flat spot on the blade. These can all be used as reference points for your grinding. If you so desire, you can even use more than one in a sharpening session. Is this valuable or useful? I think so, but it's not an enormous advantage. It just showcases the increased flexibility of the Edge pro. But it comes with a price. YOU are responsible for holding the blade flat on the table. So there's more user interaction required.

Which one's better? I don't know. Which one would I buy? Probably the Edge Pro. But, because I'm a sharpening geek, my dream sharpening shop/hobby area would have BOTH.

Brian.