Suggestions on resurrecting an old straight razor

W

waltmc

Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
261
Howdy, neighbors! I originally posted a tale about this old Böker in the Traditionals forum (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1081679-If-blades-could-talk) and one of the readers (thanks, Dan57) there referred me to this side of the forum.

I wonder if you all might offer some advice on how I might proceed with this blade. If it is salvageable, I am not opposed to trying to press it back into service again. I've picked through some of the threads here and elsewhere for information, but I figure it's best to just post here and see what you all think.

I know for certain that I do not have the right equipment to hone or strop this blade properly. But, I'm open either to handing this over to someone else for sharpening or trying my hand at bringing this back with the right equipment.

Here is the razor in question:

bokerandbox.jpg


bokergmside.jpg


It's marked "Boker & Co. Germany" on one side and "Robinson Bros. & Co. Louisville, KY" on the other. If the box is original (I don't know for sure, given its origin, see the post above), it's marked with "Price $3.00" (a bargain!!) and has a partial label with the date 1927 inside. That label says "Government Printing Office 1927," maybe an import tag? No idea...

These photos probably do not show the detail needed to make a proper assessment. I'm happy to take other photos with your guidance as to what should be highlighted. There are a few spots of very minor rust at the edge, but no nicks, chips, or bends that I can see. My ruler shows the blade to be 5/8 wide, if that helps.

So, I guess my typical new-guy questions are:

Does this appear to be a good candidate for resurrection?
If I send it out to have an edge restored, what would I need to keep this in service (that is, would a strop alone be sufficient or would I need a finishing hone, etc., too)?
If I wanted to restore the edge myself, what assortment of stones/hones/strops would you recommend? Or is this totally foolish?

I suspect there are other questions that I don't know enough to ask.

Any advice?

Many thanks,
Walt.
 
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Are there any chips on the cutting edge? From what I can see in the picture, the edge by the point of the blade seems to have a chip. If there is a chip, there is some work required to remove it.

First some questions:

1. Do you have any sharpening experience of any sort?
2. Do you have any sharpening equipment?
3. Can you take a close up of the point of the razor?

I sharpen my razors with the Edge Pro. It isn't a widely used method but it works. You can read up on my Edge Pro adventures in this subforum. Another member here that has helped me out tremendously is Fast14Riot.

Hopefully we can help out with your adventure into straight razors.

m-
 
Thanks, tgo-mdai,

What appears to be a chip in that photo is a small spot of rust. There is a very (very) miniscule chip about two thirds of the way down from the point, but it is unnoticeable except under very close scrutiny. I suspect it would come out in the honing process. Other than that the edge is very uniform, but it smiles toward the tip.

Answers:
1. Yes, I have sharpening experience, but only with pocket and kitchen knives, not razors
2. I do, but not anything that would be helpful for this project
3. I will, but it might take a bit. But the edge really isn't damaged.

I'll try to get pics soon.
 
My advice would be to send it to someone experienced in restoring razors and ask their opinion and be very clear about the razor's value to you.

The decision of weather or not a razor is "worth" restoring is rarely a simple matter. Sentimental value can be big. It is not uncommon to spend well in excess of the price of a new "good" razor in the pursuit of restoration. Simply put, "worth" is a very individual concept. There is no right or wrong answer...just YOUR answer.

It is also not uncommon to see a decent razor utterly destroyed by failed and inexperienced attempts to restore it.

If it is special to you, put it in the hands of a pro and get solid answers. Most guys will look at it for free and discuss options with no obligations.
 
Thank you, Unit.

It has little sentimental value, other than the curious story that came with it.
I suppose I have to figure out if I'm willing to commit to using it (instead of my grandfather's old DE safety razors that I'm using now). After reading around here more, I figure it best to go out to someone who knows what they're doing.
 
Please do not take anything I said as discouragement toward learning to hone. I find honing to be very rewarding and peaceful.

However, I think a huge mistake that a lot of guys make is to buy a clunker to learn on. It is MUCH easier to learn on a piece with no issues.

If you want to learn to hone, first read up A LOT, then get a truly shave ready razor to learn what your target destination should look and feel like, then learn to maintain it...and eventually hone it.

I think it is much easier to learn honing 'backwards'. That is, first learn to maintain, then learn to touch up with a finisher, then delve into bevel setting, and only after you feel you have mastered that should you delve into restoration/correction.

(Just my opinions...and take them for what they are worth, as I was one of those guys that learned with a pile of restorations...they felt like shaving with a garden rake, but I eventually figured it out;))
 
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No discouragement at all! What you suggested is right where my reading was leading me. I'd much rather know what a properly done blade feels like before trying to start from scratch.
It's likely that if I started on my own, this would end up as a whittling knife, which was really the original intent (but that's another, more blasphemous, story).

Thanks again!
 
On the other hand...

You could go all in and try the restoration yourself. If the razor you have has sentimental value and you are concerned about restoring it yourself, go buy a clunker and restore that. I am more of the mind that this simple cutting device should be just that, simple.

Taking the scales off is fairly easy. Peining the razor is also easy. It may seem a bit overwhelming at first, but it can be done in your garage. The one thing to remember about razors (at least for me) is that they have been around for a long time and they are simple tools.

Since you do know about sharpening, the concept is the same. One of the key differences is edge refinement. Without going into a lot of detail (unless you would like to hear it) your honing progression will have to be experimental at first. In doing so, make sure you note what you did and how you did it. An important tool to have for honing a straight razor and a knife is an eye loupe. You will be able to see if you are abrading the metal to the edge vs. almost to the edge.

It is very possible to start getting your honing supplies for real inexpensive or even repurpose your existing sharpening supplies. That is what I did with my Edge Pro.

Take a look in your garage for items that you can convert into sharpening tools. I converted an old weight lifting belt into a stropping aid. Also, you can use other media for stropping while keeping the costs very low.

Some examples:

1. PSA lapping films
2. Glossy mailers (catalogs sent in the mail)
3. Old leather belts
4. Old denim pants (cut and pasted to a piece of flat/sanded wood)
5. Paint stirrer sticks. You can use them as balsa strops. I am currently "developing" a very low cost balsa strop for my Edge Pro.

The fun part of restoring and honing for me is how can I do it with the stuff I have.

m-
 
Nice looking Böker! They make excellent shavers!

The blade looks salvageable for sure, but, that spot of rust on the toe has me a bit concerned. Deep pitting rust on the edge can make a blade virtually unusable. There seems to be some excess hone wear towards the front which is also what wore the toe down.

The scales appear to be horn. I would start by unpinning the blade, hand sand with 600# to start. Be sure to dull the edge with a few swipes of paper. Dremel tools are often the first thing mny new razor restorers reach for, but really should be the last. They just make screw-up happen much quicker! Hand sand and elbow grease. Take it up to 2000 or 2500 grit, then start with black compound polish, then red and finally white. Many people like green Chrome Oxide, but it varies greatly in quality.

Feel free to shoot me an email if you have any questions. Look up GSSixgun on youtube as well.


-Xander
 
I just joined this wonderful site...I do "blade cleanup n razor rehone" work for friends on other forums..I also have a "razor contract" with a local shaveshop near me which I do work on their customers razors..rehone and blade cleanups as well...I would love to help you with your razor and am available..PM if you are interested...only thing I dont do is pin/scale work (handles)..I dont have the space for em....but as long as your pins are tight you should be just fine..even if they are loose I find them easier to use when getting into small areas on my face...

SmallTank
 
That razor will be a good shaver again. I just got back a Butcher & Wade that had been in worse condition than that.

If you're going to sharpen that yourself, your last step should be in a stone of 8000 grit or so-- but it's very easy to lose the blade shape, so I just send mine out. I used Gemstar Customs for my last one.
 
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