Suitability of woods for long hiking hammer?

[CUTS LIKE A KRIS]

A few years ago at an antique show I picked up a cheap miners hammer head (at least that is what it was sold as). I immediately thought of turning it into a walking stick styled after a fokos. I used to be a much more active hiker, but after breaking my legs 5 years ago and producing two offspring things have not been very conducive to hiking. My ankles are extremely stable due to my accident and subsequent surgeries, but have restricted mobility. Generally speaking you don't have to outrun the bear, just me, and that is easier if you kick my ankles too! I'm mostly wanting this for the unique/cool factor, but it will be used as a hiking staff/ possible tool to use against four or two legged threats. I'm not assuming I'll need it for defence, but it is always an option, as would sticking the spike in softer ground when sliding/climbing hills- whatever comes up. I usually use a Crawford Survivsl Staff with custom shepherds hook, but would like to add this some time as well.

The problem is I'm not sure what wood to use for it. I have it narrowed down to the following three in my collection (all three with good grain orientation).
Ipe: I've never worked it before, but know it is hard, heavy, resistant to the elements and will take the most work to reduce to size, plus I know some are sensitive to it. It would be the shortest handle due to the size of board I have (the others are 4' while the ipe is 3'). Plus it has the least figure.

Oak: another hard wood, this piece has some curl on one side so I thought utilizing it would be a nice aesthetic feature.

Curly maple: I know it is used in hawks fairly often, this is the most beautiful choice, that may or may not get a darkening with heat treat scale vinageroon. I have the most experience with working maple, but that is not much. This piece is also the closest to the proper size.

Now the questioning begins.

Which of these three would be your choice for a hiking hammer/war hammer haft and why? Is one more prone to splitting? What finish (I have tung oil that I was thinking about )I'm thinking more toward the maple, but am not sure if the curl affects the strength with such a long haft and reverberations. I had bad luck using birds eye maple for a hewing axe handle, so want to listen to those who have real world input (I ignored the advice about the birds eye and hewing axe). Would all three be suited for wedging the head in place, I don't think a tapered haft is what I am looking for. The eye is 1 1/4" x3/4" roughly, don't know the weight, but here are some pics.

Oak:

Maple

Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
Kris

 

[Ernest DuBois]

That's a nice little head. THE maple would be a good one but don't oil maple, coat it with schellac and wax. If it gets a wedge, use a contrasting color. In case you use oil then one of THE other woods would be THE beter choice.

E.DB.

 

[Square_peg]

With a long thin walking stick what's most important is continuous grain.

 

[Ernest DuBois]

The problem is I'm not sure what wood to use for it. I have it narrowed down to the following three in my collection (all three with good grain orientation).

It seems grain orientation was not on the table, to use one of those metaphors politicians are so fond of using.

E.DB.

 

[CUTS LIKE A KRIS]

Ernest- mind saying why no oil in your opinion? I've used it on knives before with maple, and have never before heard not to.

As best that I can tell the grain is fairly straight throughout the length of all three choices (which is why there weren't more pieces to choose from), I'm just not familiar with their properties as a long impact tool. Although if they do break once on the head, then I make knife handles out of the scrap and start the project again, like I did when I changed birds eye maple to Osage for my hewing axe. I was thinking if a Paduk or other contrasting wood for a wedge, I have a fairly decent supply of other types that would contrast nicely.

 

[kvaughn]

A good worked down sapling of osage orange or hop hornbeam would work well if you have either in your woods. I have a hop hornbeam [ called muscle wood/iron wood here in Ct] staff that I've used about 10 yrs and it seems to be getting lighter and stronger with age.--KV

 

[CUTS LIKE A KRIS]

KV, unfortunately we have neither here, and the Osage I have found in local lumber supply has not had lengths suitable for my height. Plus I'm trying to keep it to what I have on hand if possible due to the almighty dollar being in limited supply, but thanks for the suggestion. The local "ironwood" willow I have collected may work, but I don't have a piece that I feel is straight enough. But hey- this is all for fun anyways!!

 

[Square_peg]

If the grain is good then I think you'd be fine with either the oak or the maple. Oak isn't favored for axe handles because it transmits more shock than hickory. But I don't think that will be an issue at all for this project.

When I think "long and thin" I think fruit wood. I used to have a cherry staff that was nearly indestructible. Another possibility if you have it in Edmonton is meadow sweet ocean spray (Holodiscus discolor) - a tall shrub also called Indian Ironwood. It's tough as can be and grows very straight.

 

[omniviking]

Heck Chris of what you have i may give the Ipe a go. it is for the rain forest and used a lot for decks and patios tough to machine/ It has a lot of silica in it, so it can be hard on cutting tools. Oak and maple would also be good. if you had any ELm in your area it might surprise you for how tough it is.

 

[racegunner]

There are reasons why hafts and knife handles are not usually made of oak. It's a rough wood. Maple is the better choice.

 

[CUTS LIKE A KRIS]

Well, while waiting for some epoxy to set last night I took the plunge and started on the maple! I'll try to update as I go, but can be a while, thanks for all of the suggestions so far!!

 

[Double Ott]

With your bum leg, do you have any concern about taking a tumble and landing the wrong way on that spike end? I'd sure be a bit leery of it for a walking stick.

Just wondering, Tom

 

[CUTS LIKE A KRIS]

Not too worried, most of the paths I take are pretty mild as I'm usually with my family these days. Plus with the head in hand it should be a bit easier to control with a slip. If I'm being totally honest it is just a good excuse to carry a war hammer in today's society. Plus most of my issues have been a quick collapse of the ankle that hasn't led me to fall. But anything can happen too, hope I don't meet my end from a hiking staff, that would be hard to live down (pun intended). If it is nasty terrain I have and usually use the Crawford Survival Staff, but that wouldn't be as impressive fighting a bear with! . I equate it with the risks associated with carrying a neck knife, after 15 years of carrying one I have not had a fall/negative incident, but accept the possibility may eventually occur.

 

[Shotgun]

Ernest- mind saying why no oil in your opinion? I've used it on knives before with maple, and have never before heard not to.

I'd like to know this too.

 

[CUTS LIKE A KRIS]

Well I guess it is done enough for a trial trail run! 41" maple shaft dyed with red Feibings alcohol dye, Tru-oil and ren wax finish. Still a small amount of dye coming off, will mellow with use. Small spike for trails, and will fit a standard crutch tip for when the floor may be marred. So far I'm pretty happy, but an oops took off 5" of the bottom of the handle which I would like to get back as I felt the balance was a bit better that way, maybe next haft.

As close as I can get showing more true color and some of the figure within.

Now where is a bear to try it out on!!! (ya right.... )