Sun-Bleached Staglon Question

K

kevins73cigars

Joined
Feb 24, 2006
Messages
276
Hi Guys,
I just received a "new" 885UH. One of the two scales (the one with the Uncle Henry sheild) is almost white from what I assume is from exposure to the sun. Has anyone ever had any luck repairing or improving this condition?

I tried a few searches and will continue to search for an answer, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Here's a link to the "new" knife...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=280038005341&rd=1&rd=1
 
I dunno, it seems when plastic becomes sun-faded, it's irreversable. Please post the results of whatever you try. Just guessing, but I'd bet a dollar that your knife was from a store display.

What I wonder, if the plasti-stag is faded from the sunlight is it also more brittle or softer? Reason I ask, I have an Old Timer that was recovered after a home fire. The brown delrin is completely white and feels chalky. Just wondering how much sunlight would be needed to cause similar decomposition.

Best Wishes,
-Bob
 
I have a knife in the same condition. I was thinking of applying a heavy coat of ink. in the same color, and letting it sit for several days and see if it soaks in some.
 
Bob W said:
I dunno, it seems when plastic becomes sun-faded, it's irreversable. Please post the results of whatever you try. Just guessing, but I'd bet a dollar that your knife was from a store display.

What I wonder, if the plasti-stag is faded from the sunlight is it also more brittle or softer? Reason I ask, I have an Old Timer that was recovered after a home fire. The brown delrin is completely white and feels chalky. Just wondering how much sunlight would be needed to cause similar decomposition.

Best Wishes,
-Bob
Click to expand...

Ren wax does help with the fading & oxidization of the Delrin, at least it worked on mine. Can't post a pic because I didn't take any pics before.

A store display can receive damage to the delrin from sunlight or florescent lights. I have a faded 18OT from a cutlery store in the basement of a mall. It was faded from the fluorescent lights. Ren wax helped that one.

I have a 34OT that belonged to my grandfather that had oxidized with white powder on it. I scraped it off with my finger nail, then hit it lightly with #0000 steel wool then Ren wax. It looks good as new.

Ren wax really is an amazing product.

Dale
 
Thanks for the replies. Yes, this 885UH was definitely in a display case. I was oiling the blades last night and decided to slather some oil on the scales, didn't seem to do any harm, but I don't think it will fix the gritty feel of thes smooth white parts of the scale on the ends near the bolsters. Ren Wax looks like just the stuff I need. But, $28 for a little can... The knife was less than $20 including the shipping!?! Where do you guys buy this stuff?
 
I get it from Knife & Gun Supply.
http://www.knifeandgun.com/catalog/renaissance_wax_186700_products.htm

Yo can get the 2.25 oz. for $15, 4 oz. for $18.95 or 7 oz. for $25. I got the 7 oz as it is cheaper that way and since I started using it I am glad I did. I wipe down all the knives I make with it. The 2.25 oz is probably enough for the average collector & will probably last you a lifetime. You don't use much of it.

Dale
 
Thanks Dale. The 7oz. jar of Ren Wax looks like the way to go. I've decided to use this new 885UH as my EDC and sell my old 885UH to defray rhe cost of the Ren Wax. I just posted it to eBay...

Thanks again for the help guys. Where else would I find out about Ren Wax?
 
If I understand the manufacturing process correctly, you are dealing with two different problems. First, the dye in the top layer of the plastic fading from UV light, second the plastic base material drying and chalking. Burnishing helps the base delrin, sometimes the smooth dyed portions. I have used Feibings (sp) brown leather dye to add back the faded dye to a fixed blade and it worked well. I am not sure how well it penetrated though, since this is not a knife I carry and use. The original dye is a two step process on UH and single step on OT (IIRC). I posted the process some time back. It is a hot dye bath with drying cycles. Fiebings is a cold dye. Just oil alone (skin or knife oil) sometimes helps if the fading/drying is not too bad. Or you can leave it as it and enjoy using it as an edc as you indicated. I've never tried renwax.

Codger
 
In case anyone out there wants a cheap solution for a staglon handle that is "chalking" as I described, try KIWI clear shoe polish. I had a can that I use on my work shoes, so I gave it a shot. It really helped! Just smear a nice heavy coat on, let it dry and then buff the hell out of it with a soft cloth. Repeat the process a few times and the derlin gets smooth and shines again. It won't do much as far as the color goes, bit it seems to seal and protect the scales pretty well!
 
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