super glue over tung oil????

T

Terry_Dodson

Joined
Jul 10, 2002
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Will a super glue finish work over tung oil on curly maple wood? Will there be any down the road side effects i need to know about before i do it? Or is there a reason i shouldn't do it? I have already whiskered the wood, and got 2 coats of tung oil on it, i have not super glued it yet. I just figure the super glue should seal it better, and have less maintenance than just a plain tung oil finish?
 
noo... :D dont do it :D
Just kidding do what you want Terry.

I say no because once the glue is one your stuck. Good results or bad. What I was pleased with was 4 or 5 coats of boiled linseed oil on my maple handle. Put it on, let stand 15 miniuts, wipe off excess and let dry. Do this 1nce a day for about 5 days and see what you get. You might like it.

If you seal it with glue I dont know that you can get it out of the wood without sanding it out but I could be wrong.
 
Brian, how is it going? I have made several curly maple handles with just the tung oil (usually takes me about a week with drying times :( ) and am happy with the way they look and all, but i am under the impression that every so often i will have to re-apply the tung oil. The person that is getting this one, i am not sure if he will reapply as he should. I was just wanting to see if i could make it more durable doing it that way.
 
Good topic Terry because I have alot of maple to use too!

You can always say just wipe the knife down with oil and wipe the handle too ;) Thats what I do with say Cherry, or non oily woods.
 
Hi, I am not a real maker...just getting into things. I did that on a kit knife I made that had spalted maple burl and used boiled linseed oil. I know the linseed oil is supposed to thicken up and become almost hard with time and I think it needs oxygen to do this. I dont know if tung oil does the same thing or not but I would think you would want to let the knife dry/ cure for awhile before putting the super glue on. This is what I did and I left a fairly thick coat of the super glue. It has an almost acrylic type feel and is very glossy. It has held up so far, what ever that is worth. Just thought I would offer my experience.

Ryan
 
It is best to first seal the wood by getting the oil in it. A good tung oil finish can be one that has no surface coat at all. Surface coats can be applied after sealing is complete. Just dilute the oil about 2 or 3 to 1 to seal. Takes as many coats as the wood will obsorb.

RL
 
What do you dilute "tung oil" with? acetone or mineral oil? This particular andle has lots of the tiger eye effect and i want to preserve that the best way i can. on some other handes i have done with just tung oil, after using a while apparently acid and oils from your hands make the finish grungy looking or something, never seems to get back to the original way unless you almost redo it. That is what i am trying to avoid down the road.
 
Ryan, thanks, that is what i was thinking, put on the oil to get the look i want, let dry and coat with the super glue to keep it looking that way. I just wasnt sure if there were any down sides to it in the long run, or problems putting on the super glue over the oil (once dry of course).
 
I have let my scales sit in Tung oil for 2 days just to let it soak in and the
results are great with out any thing else.. just my 2 cents


Zoo
 
Well here are some pics of my latest one wiht a super glue finish:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/terry_dodson/album?.dir=266b

The blade is 1080 steel, 7.5" long, widest part is 1.25" or so, 3/16" thick at guard, I think the guard is bronze ( could be brass, i cant tell, it did have a kinda brownish oxide coating when i started). The handle is 4.75" long, 1.25" thick at the thickest part, and curly maple. The sheath i made, thanks to Sandy for giving me tips and showing me how to use the gouger and overstitch wheels at TrackRock last time.

The finish on the handle - shaped, whiskered several times to bring out the grain and tiger eye effect, soaked in linseed oil overnight, dried, whiskered again, 2 coats of tung oil and dried, whiskered again, then 3 coats of thin super glue (from a 3 pack from the $1 tree), sanded with 600 grit paper til smooth, then 2 more coats of thin super glue, dried, sanded with 2000 grit paper for a glass like finish.

So far i really like the looks of it, i dont know if you can tell from the pictures but there is lots of tiger eye effect and activity in this piece of curly maple, man it looks good in person.
 
Terry, in my opinion it would be a bad idea. I haven't tried it but from my experience with finishes it just doesn't sound good.

One problem I see, is mixing finishes. Most finishes are developed over time to work together. There are specific formulas developed for sealers, pore fillers, stains and top coats. Mixing these among various types (oils, polys, epoxy bases, et al) can quickly show signs of their faults, such as orange peel, air bubbles and discolorization but just as oft they can appear after time.

If you were talking about using a water based stain and then using cyanoacrylate over that, I'd imagine that would be ok. But putting a base of oil down with a non-oil finish over top just has my skin crawling. Personally I'd just go with tung oil by itself. It is an excellent finish that would do any piece justice.

BTW that quilted maple is gorgeous, and the knife ain't too shabby either ;)

-MJ
 
Thanks Brian and MJ, i was hoping by letting each different one dry that the next one would be ok, it may not be, but i was hoping for a finish that this person would not have to reapply (as with tung oil). On the next one i will probably just add a little brown color, whisker, dy and do the super glue finish and see how it turns out. I had already soaked it in linseed oil and started the tung oil on it when i thought about the super glue may be longer lasting. As you can see on this one i want it to show the effect as long as it can. :D
 
Terry how did you put the CA on the handle? Did you use the gel? I would think the regular CA would setup to quickly. Sure looks good!
 
Actually, Tung oil is BETTER for what you are asking then superglue. While a superglue finish will last longer it is far from permanent. And when it dulls, gets damaged or cracks it often times has to be sanded off to be refinished. For tung oil, just tell the client, whenever the finish starts to get dulled, lightly wax it by hand to bring it back. It's something I see alot of wooden pen turners doing that bites them later on. Using Cyanoacrylate glue as a finish produces a gorgeous sheen and hard shell when done right, but there are two flaws that have to be considered, the one I mentioned, and the fact that it is hard, and doesn't give as much as other finishes. So it is more prone to develope cracks from the wood movement.

I realize I'm saying this as definitive, and as if I'm the expert, I guess I should mention it's just my opinion based on what I've seen. And far from an expert on anything except being me, and that I'm still checking my qualifications on ;) -MJ
 
DGG i cut the fingers out of some blue nitrel (sp??) gloves and used one finger at a time to spread it on, i had plenty of time to spread it on before it started to set.

MJ you have given me some things to think about. Thanks :)
 
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