Sure you heard this before: PM2 red loctite, I am guessing. Just spent an hour cranking on it. Boiled water, hairdryer.

Hashishiin

Hashishiin

Joined
Dec 29, 2021
Messages
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This is insane. What should I do? I cannot unscrew the pivot on my G10 S45 PM2. I want to put some new scales on that. I am busted, though, can't budge the damn thing and I want to myself. I made a thread about one of my Torx bits breaking last night... maybe once my WiHa comes I'll be able to do it? I just wanted to do a simple swap, though, my God this is insane! I don't wanna strip it...

Tips, tricks? I went easy on the water and hairdryer, already smelled burning with the dryer. Should I just wait for the WiHa? This is just ludicrous. I can't get the pivot screw off. I have no soldiering iron.
Beautiful scales, though.
https://imgur.com/a/C9LXtHw
 
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Danke42 said:
How to Remove Stubborn Screws from a Knife

According to the manufacturers of Loctite 263, the red Loctite used on Spyderco’s US-made knives, screws treated with it can be removed by applying heat. However, its specifications state that a temperature of more than 360 degrees Fahrenheit must be reached for it to soften. Such temperatures could easily damage the scales and other components of your knife. Instead, we recommend the following process:

1) Ensure that you have the proper size Torx® driver for your screws and that the driver head is in good condition. A single-piece, screwdriver-style driver works best.
2) Place your knife on a workbench or other hard surface. Use a paper towel or rag to protect the handle from scratches.
3) Insert the tip of the Torx driver into the screw head and ensure that it fits properly.
4) Tap the handle of the driver several times with a hammer to “shock” the screw and break the Loctite bond.
5) Maintain a firm, constant, downward pressure on the Torx driver as you rotate it to remove the screw.
6) If this method is not successful on the first try, repeat as necessary or return your knife to Spyderco with $5.00 for return shipping. We will loosen your knife’s screws upon request.

Source
https://forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=74060
Click to expand...
 
Garolite 10 (G10) is rated for temps up to around 280 degrees F. As Danke42 posted above, red Loctite 263 is rated for temps up to 360 degrees F.

Although G10 won't melt, it can become charred and discolored by excessive heat.

A soldering iron might be used successfully to loosen red Loctite 263 before damage occurs to the G10, but then again, it might not. That damn red stuff is the Devils superglue. I see no reason to use it on a knife, unless the maker REALLY doesn't want the owner to remove the screws. But even then, the maker might still have to take the knife apart themselves for warranty/repair work. So again, I don't see the reason to use it, especially when blue Loctite works just fine.

And to use red on a pivot screw REALLY makes no sense. A person should have the option to adjust the pivot screw on their knife.

Hopefully the "tap" method provided by Spyderco will work.
 
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killgar said:
Garolite 10 (G10) is rated for temps up to around 280 degrees F. As Danke42 posted above, red Loctite 263 is rated for temps up to 360 degrees F.

Although G10 won't melt, it can become charred and discolored by excessive heat.

A soldering iron might be used successfully to loosen red Loctite 263 before damage occurs to the G10, but then again, it might not. That damn red stuff is the Devils superglue. I see no reason to use it on a knife, unless the maker REALLY doesn't want the owner to remove the screws. But even then, the maker might still have to take the knife apart themselves for warranty/repair work. So again, I don't see the reason to use it, especially when blue Loctite works just fine.

And to use red on a pivot screw REALLY makes no sense. A person should have the option to adjust the pivot screw on their knife.

Hopefully the "tap" method provided by Spyderco will work.
Click to expand...
Well, I don't KNOW that it's red loctite. I am assuming, cause it is impossible with my toolset (that I busted a smaller torx bit on last night). I will wait for my Wiha set in 2-4 days. Actually, it should not be, because they supposedly stopped that after 2017 according to multiple sources, Shabazz, etc. I have no idea what it is but my tool busting on a clip screw from the same brand is not a good indicator. But, agreed with what you're saying, it seems evil if that's what it is, I hope it's my crappy bits.

Also, those damn scales, man... 150, and the color wipes off with my finger, like you were wiping off dust from your blade... I hope I can return those things. Caution everyone on MetonBoss scales. It was such a beautiful purple and blue, I should post one scale vs the untouched scale. It'll be beautiful for all of five carries then be a reg ti handle. Sorry for my belly aching.
This was just a disappointing day.
 
Daniel said:
I have used this rapping technique for years and it has always worked for me. I also have a t-handle bit driver for extra torque using a power bit.
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I will try this when my Wiha comes if it still does not work. My current bit is not good enough to hazard it with. But thank you guys, I will do it and follow up with how it goes, though I need to wait for my wooden scales from Russia.
 
Hashishiin said:
Also, those damn scales, man... 150, and the color wipes off with my finger, like you were wiping off dust from your blade... I hope I can return those things. Caution everyone on MetonBoss scales. It was such a beautiful purple and blue, I should post one scale vs the untouched scale. It'll be beautiful for all of five carries then be a reg ti handle. Sorry for my belly aching.
This was just a disappointing day
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Windex...they're most likely just dirty with finger oil.
 
WValtakis said:
Windex...they're most likely just dirty with finger oil.
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Tell me what you think of this, one is untouched. Which one seems vibrant, and which one seems duller? I don't know what to think. My girlfriend called attention to the color being just...pushed away, and it is true, even if you can still see the blue and such. Then in the sun when I took this pic (next morning) she says she thinks she was wrong and they're changing/coming back somehow. I know you are a Ti anodizer, can you confirm this? I really, really wanted these scales to look right. The orange anodizing on the aluminum PM2 is flawless and perfect. Check this out.

https://imgur.com/a/lKhcqQl
https://imgur.com/a/cG6o64H
 
Hashishiin said:
Wow, you were right, I just don't know anything about Titanium.
Scales are fine.
Holy shit that was a scare. Better message KnifeCenter.
Click to expand...

Really glad you listened to Chip, those scales really pop!
A few posts below yours here is another Spyderco Para 3 stuck screw. Heat did the trick. Here’s the link for that post, good luck.

Removing stuck Para 3 grip screw

I am having trouble getting this grip screw removed and am getting the dreaded little metal chips from my Wiha torx bit slipping. Would it be safe to get a vise clamped onto the threaded standoff or do I risk deforming it out of round? Thanks
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
I've read that nitro methane is the preferred solvent for Loctite. Not sure what that stuff will do to scales, though.
 
I don’t know why they suggested hitting the screw driver handle with a hammer. I’ve always just tapped on the bit by itself. The handle of the driver will be damaged and also absorb some of the impact.
 
Hashishiin said:
Wow, you were right, I just don't know anything about Titanium.
Scales are fine.
Holy shit that was a scare. Better message KnifeCenter.
Click to expand...

On any of the “high polish” bright and vibrant anodizing, finger oils will make it dull or even change color. Chip is correct that windex will bring the color back to life. :)

This orange anodizing I did changes to purple with finger oils. A little windex and back to shiny orange. :)
F669AF83-ED40-4D5C-836D-B3456C23D246.jpeg
 
eveled said:
I don’t know why they suggested hitting the screw driver handle with a hammer. I’ve always just tapped on the bit by itself. The handle of the driver will be damaged and also absorb some of the impact.
Click to expand...
I really depends on the type of torx driver. If the bit is separate, then you can hit only the bit. However, the type of torx driver with an integrated handle for each size, you have to hit the handle.
 
Daniel said:
I really depends on the type of torx driver. If the bit is separate, then you can hit only the bit. However, the type of torx driver with an integrated handle for each size, you have to hit the handle.
Click to expand...
I did this a little, tapped it with the rubber end of a screwdriver. My Wiha bits come in tomorrow - if a proper tool doesn't do the trick, it's hammer-time.

Sharp & Fiery said:
On any of the “high polish” bright and vibrant anodizing, finger oils will make it dull or even change color. Chip is correct that windex will bring the color back to life. :)

This orange anodizing I did changes to purple with finger oils. A little windex and back to shiny orange. :)
View attachment 1777222
Click to expand...
Yes, the Windex brought back all my colors (will post up the "full color" scales), it was insane, I was in disbelief as I hadn't played with a material with these characteristics, I was like a caveman. I was just like, "this is worse than any cheap paint, how can they sell this?!" at first, thinking it was sold only to be put on the knife, looked at and admired 😂 So glad to be wrong, and Guitar Center is too, I messaged them letting them know it was a false alarm and they responded instantly with relief, ha.
 
Wiha tools, worked INSTANTLY.
EDIT may have messed up worse than before, pls click page 2
 
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