Surefire 6P help please

[spyderknut]

I tried to post on CPF but I have not yet received an email to activate my account there so I can neither start nor reply to threads. I bet someone here can help.

I am trying to revive an old 6p. "How old?" you ask. The bulb is labelled Laser products R60. That is how old. Probably ten or twelve years. The model I got can be used with two 123A batteries or a model B65 rechargeable Ni-Cad with an extension to the body. I am the original owner but left the light stored with rechargeable battery within for many years, unused, neglected, unloved.

With a renewed interest in lights and cheaper 123A batteries, I checked to see if I could get the light to work. No go. I bought a new bulb assembly through Surefire and got it today. A little diddling with batteries, bulbs etc shows the problem to be in the tailcap. It just won't switch the light on.

Still waiting for a question? Here it is in a nutshell:

Do I just need to buy a new tailcap assembly or is this a warranty situation?

Thanks in advance!

 

[xsrdx]

Dollars to donuts if you call SF and tell them your problem, they will ship a new tailcap gratis.

My experience with SF customer service has been first rate.

 

[spyderknut]

Dollars to donuts if you call SF and tell them your problem, they will ship a new tailcap gratis.

My experience with SF customer service has been first rate.

Thanks!

Done. It took two calls. The first guy asked me to make sure I'm not an idiot though not in so many words. Well, I checked and indeed I am not. The second rep was quickly helpful, especially when I confirmed I am not an idiot (again, not in so many words). Tailcap switch is on the way.

I also figured out that if I turn the tailcap backwards with the spring against the rubber button, I can kinda use the light for now.

 

[dano]

Your 6P is vinatge; without a lock-out tail cap. With the early models, there were connection issues between the lip of the body and the small round metal piece (that has the spring attached) that's inserted into the rubber membrane of the tail cap.

--Clean the light; get all the gunk off the rear threads, and pay special attention to the top flat area on the rear of the light. Clean the metal button, clean the spring. In the bulb area, clean the lip that's inside of the light, where the bulb assembly's spring makes contact.

--Lube; use a good dielectric lube on the threads. DO NOT use a silicone based lube.

--dan

 

[spyderknut]

--Clean the light; get all the gunk off the rear threads, and pay special attention to the top flat area on the rear of the light. Clean the metal button, clean the spring. In the bulb area, clean the lip that's inside of the light, where the bulb assembly's spring makes contact.

--dan

Thanks Dano. That was the idiot check I had to make after the first call. I was away from the light by the time I got to speak with a person. The metal was clean and not corroded. Removing the aluminum button/spring from the back and just holding it manually in good contact, I could not get a glimmer. I then stuck the back, rounded end of the switch button in, making much more limited contact. Easy, bright light. Internally, there is no connection between the spring and aluminum button. I was glad I didn't miss something as silly as corroded contact points.

I should receive a new tail-switch assembly with lock out within the next few weeks.