That looks like it might be a fine pole chuck to me. That magnet might be worth the asking price alone. Could be useful regardless of the direction you take.
It's a "mixed" pole arrangement chuck, there are 2-3 fine lines and one medium, repeating across the face. If it's a good quality chuck, these work very well as an "all-around" chuck, especially for us, and will give good hold on most things. Still may want a really fine pole model for holding say, stainless slipjoint liners down, but honestly the only chucks I trust for that are electromagnet fine poles.
If it's a good USA made chuck, it's easily worth the asking price of the machine. However, I highly recommend inspecting any SG in person, the most important issue, more than way wear, or any other caveat, is to make sure the spindle runs smooth, doesn't make any excess noise, produce any noticeable vibration (rest your hand on the spindle behind the wheel guard when it's running), or make any high pitched metal scraping sounds, then make sure the same is true of the spindle motor. Finding replacements are very difficult for most models, and you can't just buy an off-the-shelf replacement motor and be guaranteed the machine will still give a good finish, as they used specially balanced motors, mated to the high tolerance spindle bearings. You may get lucky, but it's not remotely guaranteed.
I'd also really want to see the owner, dress the stone, and take a good cut and see that you don't get any chatter or ripple in the finish. If the above is true, for knifemaking, even if it looks a little beat up, assuming it hasn't been dropped or anything, you should be all good.
Parts and repair on SG's are usually beyond the skill or availability of anybody that hasn't done extensive machine rebuilding, and typically cost more than replacing a machine regardless. However, if you find a decent one, your use will be so minimal compared to industry, that it should last your lifetime with basic care. These Reids are typically pretty good, mid tier tool-room machines. This one looks like it's got a mechanical auto feed on the table, which are simple and work good, usually don't have any issues compared to hydraulic feed machines.
I wouldn't worry about the motor voltage if the machine runs well, easy enough to run it with a VFD or transformer or a combination of the two, but most 440V motors can be rewired to 220V input. I'd be more concerned about the paint job, which makes me think it's been half-assed refurbed by the owner, or a machine dealer.
Loading unloading; as someone who's moved hundreds of tons of machinery without a fork lift, crane, or gantry, the easiest method if it's not super far away: find a local independent roll-back truck (tow truck with a flat bed that tilts) operator, and ask them to move it for you. Shouldn't cost you more than $100-200, it's no more difficult than moving a car if they know what they're doing, and most of them have moved machinery before. They can tilt the bed right down to the machine, pull it up with a winch, drive it to your place, and slide it right off close to where you want it. I often get a truck in my area for this sort of work, even when I transport on my trailer, I'll have them snatch a machine right off my trailer bed to place it inside my shop, for stuff that's difficult to unload.
