Surface Grinder ?'s

I just purchased myself an OLD used surface grinder...

I wanted to know everyones opinions on options...

Should i convert it to abrasive belts or just stick with using wheels?

Do I have to buy a fine pole chuck for it for blade sized peices or would a more affordabel normal magnetic chuck do the trick?

Also any tips on how to clean, maintain, and adjust this machine for percision would be apreciated...

Thanks!

Alan...



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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
 
Joined
Nov 18, 2000
Messages
26
My surface grinder is integral to my process, I would never consider trying to change it to use belts, I am not even sure how you would. The wheel should turn around 3,200-3,500 RPM on most surface grinders and that would not be compatible with a belt operation. It seems like anything you want to use a belt sander for, you should use a belt sander for. If you intend to use blade sized pieces, indeed find a magnetic chuck capable of holding that sized piece securely also back the piece with a block behind it, there is nothing as dangerous and discouraging as your blades flying around the shop at speeds approaching the speed of sound damaging and being damaged. Holding the piece well fixed will keep from damaging the wheels, which are extremely dangerous when they come apart. You never said which machine you have, that would be helpful knowing to give advice on maintenance and adjustment. Let me know
Ron
 
Alan,
My view differs a bit on the surface grinder. I've had one in the shop for a couple of years now. I tried using it with the hard wheel, and did not like it at all. I changed it over to accept belts, and wouldn't have it any other way. The whole change over cost about $100. I order a serrated, Urethane drive wheel and a smooth idler from a gentleman in South Africa, built the idler support arm from scrap,and it's accurate to about 1/2 a thousandth. It just makes more sense from my perspective, since I order 2X72 belts anyway, to be able to use them for more than one application.
I highly recommend a fine pole chuck. The first one I had was a standard pole, and smaller parts often where flying around the shop. You'll pay high dollar for a good fine pole chuck, but it's worth the money.

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Ed Caffrey "The Montana Bladesmith"
ABS Mastersmith
www.caffreyknives.com
 
:
Alan I only learned about the coversion of these grinders to belt here so can't speak about that.

If you decide to stay with the wheels try to talk with someone knowledgeable at Norton or one of the other manufacturers of grinding wheels.
(Many times a local rep knows more than the tech guy at the
factory.
smile.gif
)
There is a whole new world to learn
about them.
Grinding wheels come in all sorts of hardness and grits and with some of the new advances in materials and binding agents the last few years you should be able to get about anything you want or need.
I have been out of contact for going on 6 years now and I am pretty sure that there's a lot of new things now as they were always changing.

Another thing I would try to do is contact the company that made the machine and see if I could get a book on it.
Then I would take the machine apart and clean it thoroughly, replacing any severely worn parts.
I did this with an old Brown & Sharpe tool post grinder several years ago and it was a real nice little grinder that held very tight tolerances.

To maintain it after you get it in operation is of course to use a good oil to lubricate it. Keep any overflow wiped off religiously.
Never lay anything on the chuck that your not going to grind.
Use a piece of soft plastic and then a soft cloth to remove grit from the chuck and machine.
A nice soft bristle paintbrush works well too.

Always clean your chuck before putting anything on it you're going to grind.
An old shop "trick" on Any Grinder Chuck is after you think you have it cleaned well enough is to wipe your bare clean hand over it to remove any fine residue that you can't always see.
You will almost always be surprised at what comes off on your hand.
smile.gif


Never Use Air Pressure to clean your grinder as fines can be blown into and under the ways causeing severe wear.

Use a good single point diamond to dress your wheel and after the last cutting pass run the diamond back and then back again to ensure the wheel is properly dressed.
(Another old shop "trick.")

And if you're new to these grinders always place the dressing tool slightly past, behind, center in the direction the wheel is turning. If placed "ahead" of center a miscalculation can cause the wheel to grab the dressing tool and pull it through, possibly causeing the wheel to break, let alone the possibility of great bodily injury!!!


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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

Each person's work is always a portrait of himself.

---- Samuel Butler.

Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Website
 
The machine is marked No 20 Chaser Grinder, Geometric Tool Co. New Haven Conn USA

Its a big un...Weighs a TON...It needs some work but the price was right...

Any help is greatly apreciated!!!

Alan..



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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
 
Alan,
I've been using my Chavalier 6x18 surface grinder for about 7 years. Couldn't live without it. I use only Norton 32AA wheels, usually in the 46 or 60 grit size.
Hard wheels (H, J, K, I) for softer steels and softer wheels (D, E, F, G) for hardened steels. I use coolant when grinding.
A fine pole magnetic chuck is a must for blades.
I grind steels, synthetics, and natural handle materials on it. A precision ground steel plate with double stick tape (Ace Hardware brand) works great. Also a hot glue gun will hold non mag material down just fine. I do Stellite this way.
Norton has a very good technical support section.

 
:
Alan I'm not familiar with that particular chaser grinder,but I am familiar with Geometric.
Geometric is an excellent company that's still doing a bang up business in the world of threads and threading machines.
I am betting that you have aquired a really worthwhile piece of equipment well worth the money as generally chaser grinders were almost always way over built.
smile.gif

Wish I had some contacts there that you could talk to, but we used mostly Landis & H & G dieheads and chasers.

Pictures can be a real big help in dealing with older machines,
Cincinatti Milacron used to be Cincinatti Tool and Machine Co.IIRC and by taking pix of one of their old centerless grinders I was able to find out when the machine was built and shipped and to whom. One of the pix had the serial number on a bronze plaque.(Ordered in April 1929 and shipped in Dec.1929 to a company in Minneapolis MN.
smile.gif
)
I was told that the company had gone out of business and that there was no way I could get any info on it.

Good luck and please let us know how it turns out!!
I for one would be very interested.
smile.gif



------------------
>>>>---¥vsa---->®

Each person's work is always a portrait of himself.

---- Samuel Butler.

Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Website
 
Al
I converted my grinder to a belt for two days.
The belts are great for stock removal and finishs. BUT if your going to make folders
IMHO they will give you trouble.
I was getting .002 flatness. Folders work best if the blades are within .0002
Stick with the stones for folders.
I took the belt rig off. !!!!!!
For fix blades belts would be ok..

Fine pole chucks are more expensive but worth the extra money. They have more mag strips in them . This will allow you gring very small parts without them moving.
Look at a use machinery dealer or
Enco has some good deals on them sometimes.
What Kit said on the wheels. Norton wheels are about the best!
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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
Happy Holidays!


[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 12-04-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 12-04-2000).]
 
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