Surfboard materials and knives...

The Government

The Government

Joined
Aug 21, 2009
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I have been patching surfboards for a large part of my life, not as a job but for myself and friends. I have become skilled in handling resin and fiberglass cloth and powder. What I want to know is if I can transfer these skills to handle making for knives. From what I understand G-10 and Micarta are just cloth like materials that are layered (and soaked) with resin or epoxy. My boards are made from resin, but there are epoxy boards now too and I could get my hands on epoxy easily.

I currently have "Ding All" resin which contains "Polyester resin and styrene monomer."

Could I use this resin to make micarta material for knife handles? I have some old jeans laying around too for jeancarta.

I could also buy surfboard epoxy -if that would be more appropriate.

thanks for the help:)
 
Why don't you try it and put it to the test? I'm sure we'd all like to hear more about your findings.
 
I will probably have to give it a shot either way, but I was curious if the resin I use is similar to that used in knives handles.

The characteristic of the shell of a finished surfboard is kind of delicate -and fractures easily. I would not want a knife handle that does this. It may be because surfboards use fiberglass cloth. If I used only denim material -I am curious how the finished product will come out.

Like you said I will just have to give it a shot.

thanks
 
The resin is likely not the same as is used in commercial phenolics.

It will probably work just fine for making up some my-carta though.
 
Thanks guys. The link was nice for helping me visualize my process. What that guy was doing is very analogous to making the shell of a surfboard.

The fiberglass resin he uses is for the same purpose as my "ding all" resin. It is used in combination with cloth fiberglass. The product is marketed for fixing fiberglass boats -so there is a very close connection. I looked up the ingredients of fiberglass resin on an MSDS sheet, but I did not see "styrene monomer" listed. There was "polyester resin" listed. Either way I think my resin is very close in composition. I am going to give it a try this weekend. If it comes out with a low level of toughness I will just go to the store and get the same resin he was using. I am very familiar with working with this stuff and layering cloth and so on -but no matter who you are -this stuff always makes a sticky mess:thumbup::D.

It is like working with smooth running honey at first, then within a couple minutes it turns to jelly, and in about ten minutes it turns solid:eek: and just gets harder and harder.

I will try to take pictures of the process.

Thanks
 
You might want to read my thread titled "Failed project." I tried this exact thing recently and documented it. A lot of people posted some very good advice in there. The thread should be a page or two back.
 
Thanks for looking out sircantaloupe.

My surfboard resin has a very light blue hue to it. I am familiar with how quickly it turns to jello -then concrete:eek:. This is only because I have worked with it a lot (about 10 years experience with the messy stuff) and the way I use it already includes layering a cloth material (in my case -cloth fiberglass).

If I could add a few tips:
I saw that you had a paint brush; the best tool to apply the stuff is a cheap plastic knife or wooden paint mixer (because you can scrap it).

You dont have to apply it all at once. You can do two layers, let them harden, and add one layer at a time, letting each harden in between. This allows you to work with it without it becoming a sloppy mess. By letting it harden in between layers you can be sure to have a consistent coat as well as a consistent shape.

another tip is to use a wood planer right after your resin gets past the jello stage. There is a point where it is just beginning to harden but it is not rock solid yet. It may be 20 minutes to an hour depending on how much hardener you use. It is really easy to work with at this point especially with a pocket plane (it is like a cheese grater). You may have noticed that sand paper gunks up really quickly. This tool allows you to remove lots of excess material easily and can be done in between layers (if you use the step by step method). Here is the tool I m talking about (highly recommended)
225078_front500.jpg


Well time for me to shut my mouth and give it a shot. Wish me luck.
 
I should also add that I am not going to put it in a vice. I am just going to let it harden in steps and shape as I go.
 
Hello Government! Your skills should translate just fine to making knives. Marine epoxy is used in laying up handles and also making various types of micarta so there should be no problems there. You might experiment with various types of resins, but if you are used to working with it everything should be just fine. Have fun!
 
rwiggins said:
Hello Government! Your skills should translate just fine to making knives. Marine epoxy is used in laying up handles and also making various types of micarta so there should be no problems there. You might experiment with various types of resins, but if you are used to working with it everything should be just fine. Have fun!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I just started about 45 minutes ago. The denim is drying in the post-jello stage right now (but not quite at the parmessian-stage yet). I have two handle slabs, each with three layers. I am planning on adding one or two more layers. I have been taking pictures and I will post them up when I have made something nice to look at.:)

--If anyone could help me out -I dont know what I should use to attach the handle slabs after I drill them. Where can I buy female and male dealies with allen or philips ends? Would any hardware store carry that kind of thing?

FYI -I am making slabs for a RAT Cutlery Izula knife. I figured it would be a good place to start. If this all works out I might try making something for a scandi blank.
 
Surfboards have a thin shell because if they were fully impregnated with resin, they would sink. You would not be using a foam or cell core for a knife handle, so you would not have to worry about the material being so delicate. Remember also that polyester and vinylester resins are cheaper than epoxy for a reason. Knifemaking supply houses sell what are know as Corby bolts. They are made specifically for the application you are asking about.
 
The Government said:
I have been patching surfboards for a large part of my life, not as a job but for myself and friends. I have become skilled in handling resin and fiberglass cloth and powder. What I want to know is if I can transfer these skills to handle making for knives. From what I understand G-10 and Micarta are just cloth like materials that are layered (and soaked) with resin or epoxy. My boards are made from resin, but there are epoxy boards now too and I could get my hands on epoxy easily.

I currently have "Ding All" resin which contains "Polyester resin and styrene monomer."

Could I use this resin to make micarta material for knife handles? I have some old jeans laying around too for jeancarta.

I could also buy surfboard epoxy -if that would be more appropriate.

thanks for the help:)
Click to expand...

Polyester resin covers an entire family of polymers. There are some that are used for speedboat hulls, so they can be plenty tough. There are others that are very brittle. You won't know which this is until you try it.

I'd be interested to see how it works out for you.
 
After waiting overnight the handles are still slightly soft. I did not expect it to turn as cold as it did -so I could have used twice as much hardener. I am planning on adding a couple more layers of denim today.

I was also thinking that it may be a good idea to do this project two ways. I would like to try layering fiberglass cloth in between each layer of denim. Sort of a F.R. Jeancarta. I think this would be an interesting combo.
 
Government,

If you do your layup all at once and press it before the resin kicks, you will get a tougher laminate because of higher fiber/resin ratio. Epoxy will give a superior product, but decent polyester resin should be fine for handle scales. Cured polyester resin can take on water, which may be an issue with jeancarta, since the cotton is hydrophilic. The scales may get cloudy or even bubble if water soaked for an extended time, but short term wetting should be no problem.

I always figured that the amount of hardener only determines how fast the resin polymerizes. However, a good friend used to run an auto body shop, and he tells me that polyester cured with more hardener cures not just faster, but stronger than when less is used. Just a FYI, which I cannot validate from personal experience

Bill
 
Bill1170 said:
Government,

If you do your layup all at once and press it before the resin kicks, you will get a tougher laminate because of higher fiber/resin ratio. Epoxy will give a superior product, but decent polyester resin should be fine for handle scales. Cured polyester resin can take on water, which may be an issue with jeancarta, since the cotton is hydrophilic. The scales may get cloudy or even bubble if water soaked for an extended time, but short term wetting should be no problem.

I always figured that the amount of hardener only determines how fast the resin polymerizes. However, a good friend used to run an auto body shop, and he tells me that polyester cured with more hardener cures not just faster, but stronger than when less is used. Just a FYI, which I cannot validate from personal experience

Bill
Click to expand...

Those are good words, thanks.

I think that the fiberglass was a major component of the resin that I use -Since surfboards certainly are water resistant. Fiberglass cloth also soaks up resin much more easily than the denim that I used and it therefore stacks better (more compactly). Since I am used to working exclusively with fiberglass cloth -I did not know how the denim would react -and it is much different.

After this first try, I can certainly see how pressing it would be beneficial. The product with denim is far different than with fiberglass -which I now understand. :thumbup:

I am going to finish shaping my first product and start some new handles that I think will be better.

For my next shot, I want to stack denim and fiberglass-cloth then repeat -and finish by pressing. I am thinking the fiberglass will make it a much better end product.

Thanks for the support everyone. I am having fun and learning in the process.:eek::D
 
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