Survival bow test firing

H

halo2

Joined
Sep 13, 2005
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I did some more tillering on my stick bow and did some test shooting. I'm trying to get a 30# bow give or take and want to use it to hunt small game.

Here are some pictures:

stickbowtrial01.jpg


stickbowtrial02.jpg


It's still not completely tillered and probably never will be. I'm working on it to even it out. I still have the bark on it but as has been pointed out I may have started with the wood a little too green because it's taking a mean set on one limb.

As you can see from the shots, It can be OK for accuracy (2 near the bullseye) and penetration of my "pizza box grouse" is good enough for a kill with a close shot with a stone arrowhead. I'll need to shoot with a glove as the arrows really zing the hand on release. It's brace height is about 9-10". I was fairly close for these shots but within stalking distance for small animals, IMO.

Shots are wobbly and porpoising with the storebought field arrows rated for 30-35# and they drop quickly. I chalk this up to many newbie mistakes in choosing the staff, tillering and working it green. This is about bow #3 for me and the first that has been shot. The others exploded. I'll definitely be making more bows. This is fun!

Aboriginal archers had their work cut out for them, I guess.
 
True. But I probably won't back this one. The basic idea is to simulate one made for suvival purposes.

I'll be getting some good straight grained, knot free hickory or oak for the next one and that may be backed with linen. This is more primitive versus traditional.
 
Some dry heat and judicious reflexing?

the thing to make yourself do is never take wood from the weak spots until the rest of the wood blends them into the bend,
 
Briarbrow said:
... never take wood from the weak spots until the rest of the wood blends them into the bend,
Click to expand...

I'm trying to do just that. My arc is better but still not perfect. I think the ends of the limbs need to be thinner.

Any advice for the porpoising? Shooting technique?
 
up and down? probably nock point is off

side to side is usually spine.

If the flight is always different then it's you.

A couple ways I know to test arrows before you put too much work finishing. shoot unfletched from 6-10 feet making sure your aim is level and square to target face. Those that hit straight in are the good ones.

Or, you temporary fletch and shoot normally to check flight. use those as comparators to hand spine most likely candidates.

Of course those need nocks and points too. I think(?) if you make the self nock and taper the tip for regular points you don't loose much when incorporating the(most of) taper into your stone/trade point broadhead

I've noticed many primitive shooters have gone to long shafts, as many indigenous hunters use. It's supposed to cure spine issues but I haven't got to try it.

Yep your tips look a lil thick in that one pic. full or near full draw view tells the most accurate tale/
 
halo2 said:
Shots are wobbly and porpoising with the storebought field arrows rated for 30-35# and they drop quickly. I chalk this up to many newbie mistakes in choosing the staff, tillering and working it green. This is about bow #3 for me and the first that has been shot. The others exploded. I'll definitely be making more bows. This is fun!

Aboriginal archers had their work cut out for them, I guess.
Click to expand...

Cool project.

FYI the wobly and porposing arrows do not reflect the bow as much as the do improperly spines arrows and incorrect knocking point.

Do yourself a favor and look up bareshaft tuning for traditional archery and build the next arrows so you can match them to the bow properly. Also, get a scale and measure just what your actual draw weight is.
If the bow doesn't fall apart, it doesn't have that as much to do with arrow flight as the arrows do.
 
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