As a newbie maker, i am always looking for new ideas and designs. I have read some of the more recent posts as to survival, camp and hunting knives. I was wondering what you would want for knives? Length? Flat, Convex or hollow ground? Drop, Clip point, Curved clip or straight? recuved blade, lots of belly, little belly? What type of steel? 1095, A-2, 440C, ATS, or newer exotic steels? Stainless or high Carbon? Less maintenence or more maintenence. I notice CS offers a lot of their stuff in Carbon V or Aus 8. Which would you prefer? Any other thoughts on blades for survival, camping, hunting, etc, please let me know! I'm not trying to start a war or anything on preferences on knives, just trying to get a more specific idea of what people would want for blades as I am going to start making them soon and would appreciate any blade ideas, steel choices, styles, etc. I know people like different styles, but i want more specifics about these types of blades so maybe I can know what people will want if they ask me to make a camp knife, hunting knife, etc. Thanks, guys!
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Survival knife...what do YOU want????
- Thread starter Taz
- Start date
How about 3.5" - 6" length for general purpose AUS 8A, 440A for knives that need to be corrosion resistant. 1095 is preety good, been around for ever in USMC K-Bar knock-offs etc... Exotics may require special talents or equipment. Also like drop points or clips with a little belly.
Surprisingly would have to agree with others here Buck 110, or drop point equivelant may be best for the money.
Surprisingly would have to agree with others here Buck 110, or drop point equivelant may be best for the money.
I think this knife looks pretty interesting. I know there's no such thing as a survival knife
but you could use this for something, I'm sure.
http://www.jungletraining.com/laser.htm
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Hoodoo
Why dost thou whet thy knife so earnestly?
The Merchant of Venice, Act IV. Scene I.
[This message has been edited by Hoodoo (edited 09-05-2000).]
http://www.jungletraining.com/laser.htm
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Hoodoo
Why dost thou whet thy knife so earnestly?
The Merchant of Venice, Act IV. Scene I.
[This message has been edited by Hoodoo (edited 09-05-2000).]
Hey Taz-
My preferences are a 5" to 6" drop point in a high carbon steel. I do not understand why a knife has to be "stainless" . My hammer, chain, pliers, screwdrivers, axes, and crowbars are not, so why the knife? I like to be able to shave kindling off of cut lumber for fire starting, but for chopping, I'll use a hatchet or an axe. (Or a chain saw, for that matter) I also want to breast out a duck or pheasant, and comfortably dice onions for cooking later that night. I do not expect any knife do do all tasks, just as I do not expect to operate a farm or even an acreage with a pair of pliers or a fencing tool. I want a quality product and excellent service at a reasonable price, and I'm willing to pay for it.
Hope this helps. Please feel free to email me. Maybe I can be your first customer? What the heck, maybe someday, I can be one of your Regional sales managers!
Best,
jame
My preferences are a 5" to 6" drop point in a high carbon steel. I do not understand why a knife has to be "stainless" . My hammer, chain, pliers, screwdrivers, axes, and crowbars are not, so why the knife? I like to be able to shave kindling off of cut lumber for fire starting, but for chopping, I'll use a hatchet or an axe. (Or a chain saw, for that matter) I also want to breast out a duck or pheasant, and comfortably dice onions for cooking later that night. I do not expect any knife do do all tasks, just as I do not expect to operate a farm or even an acreage with a pair of pliers or a fencing tool. I want a quality product and excellent service at a reasonable price, and I'm willing to pay for it.
Hope this helps. Please feel free to email me. Maybe I can be your first customer? What the heck, maybe someday, I can be one of your Regional sales managers!
Best,
jame
Thanks for the replies and ideas, guys! I will try to scan some of the stuff i am working on when i go home for a break. Farmboy, I already have sold 2 knives, so youcant be the first, but you can defintely be in the top 10! i am waiting to get back home for break and for my grizzly grinder to arrive, so I am just looking for new ideas right now. Keep them coming!
Steel: A-2 (my Blackjack really left an impression) at 54-58 Rc with an anti-corrosion finish.
Blade: 5-5.5 inches and 3/16th inch spine to pound on for splitting wood. Grind should be flat.
Handle: One guard (large enough to keep hands from slipping forward). Micarta, wood, leather or any material which does not fall apart when exposed to DEET (no rubber). Solid steel pommel for pounding. Lanyard hole is nice. No sawteeth, serrations or anything that weakens the blade and makes it tough to sharpen.
Sheath: Leather with a pouch that can fit a sharpening stone and magnesium firestarter.
Just my opinion.
Blade: 5-5.5 inches and 3/16th inch spine to pound on for splitting wood. Grind should be flat.
Handle: One guard (large enough to keep hands from slipping forward). Micarta, wood, leather or any material which does not fall apart when exposed to DEET (no rubber). Solid steel pommel for pounding. Lanyard hole is nice. No sawteeth, serrations or anything that weakens the blade and makes it tough to sharpen.
Sheath: Leather with a pouch that can fit a sharpening stone and magnesium firestarter.
Just my opinion.
My first inclination was to agree with jame, because I agree with all of his preferences, and am not really a fan of big knives. However, since I assume the term "survival knife" to mean a knife that is capable of performing all tasks necessary to survival (including chopping for firewood and building a shelter), I would want something a little bigger. The Busse Steel Heart is a great example-matter of fact I plan to purchase one.
Heavy and long enough to chop with, strong enough to pry with, tough enough to hold a good edge, compact enough to carry at all times (outdoors, anyway)-it pretty much sums up everything I think a survival knife should be. It may not be the ideal tool for every situation, but is capable of performing many different roles.
To put that in perspective, next time I hit the woods it will be with a Busse Basic #5 at my side, a Benchmade AFCK in my pocket, and a Gerber camp axe attached to my pack.
CAman, what kind of Blackjack? My all time favorite is my Classic 1-7, but the Busse I mentioned above is replacing it, because it is a little long and gets in the way sometimes (ok, I needed an excuse to get a new knife, too-a Steel Heart would be about the same length).
[This message has been edited by Owen (edited 09-06-2000).]
Heavy and long enough to chop with, strong enough to pry with, tough enough to hold a good edge, compact enough to carry at all times (outdoors, anyway)-it pretty much sums up everything I think a survival knife should be. It may not be the ideal tool for every situation, but is capable of performing many different roles.
To put that in perspective, next time I hit the woods it will be with a Busse Basic #5 at my side, a Benchmade AFCK in my pocket, and a Gerber camp axe attached to my pack.
CAman, what kind of Blackjack? My all time favorite is my Classic 1-7, but the Busse I mentioned above is replacing it, because it is a little long and gets in the way sometimes (ok, I needed an excuse to get a new knife, too-a Steel Heart would be about the same length).
[This message has been edited by Owen (edited 09-06-2000).]
No such thing as an "ideal survival knife".
As an "all-round" knife, I prefer D2, A2 or 52100, 3 1/2" to 4 1/2", 1/8" stock, with stag or micarta handle..., *slight* drop point, staight point, or *slight* clip..., with a little belly. And you need to include some rust preventitive with that!
I think way too many makers are using way too thick stock.
As an "all-round" knife, I prefer D2, A2 or 52100, 3 1/2" to 4 1/2", 1/8" stock, with stag or micarta handle..., *slight* drop point, staight point, or *slight* clip..., with a little belly. And you need to include some rust preventitive with that!
I think way too many makers are using way too thick stock.
Ideal Survival Knife.... Let me stand at odds with the other posters here...
My ideal survival knife is the one I have with me. Thus, it will be a mid-sized folder, or a small fixed blade that will reside in my pocket. Sorry, but my profession won't allow a belt sheath. It ticks me off too.
As a survival knife, we can do away with day-to-day requirements, and focus on the survival aspect. I usually carry stainless, but a high carbon something, specifically with the spine treated so I can spark off it with a natural flint, would be superb. The spine also needs to be suitable for batoning. A divot in the handle that I can use with a bow and drill. If it's a fixed blade, fit a ferrocerium rod into the sheath. Folder too, if you can, but I don't know how to. It needs enought belly to skin, and it needs a good strong point. Make these two match, and I don't care the specific style.
This is what I would want in a survival blade. My primary concern is having it on me, and so it needs to fit in my pocket. I wear a flight suit to work, and have no belt, or waistband, only pockets. It doesn't need to build me a house, since I only plan on staying out as long as it takes for someone to come pick me up. It needs to build a fire and a shelter, which I should be able to manage with three inches of blade in most any weather, with a wee bit of ingenuity.
Stryver
My ideal survival knife is the one I have with me. Thus, it will be a mid-sized folder, or a small fixed blade that will reside in my pocket. Sorry, but my profession won't allow a belt sheath. It ticks me off too.
As a survival knife, we can do away with day-to-day requirements, and focus on the survival aspect. I usually carry stainless, but a high carbon something, specifically with the spine treated so I can spark off it with a natural flint, would be superb. The spine also needs to be suitable for batoning. A divot in the handle that I can use with a bow and drill. If it's a fixed blade, fit a ferrocerium rod into the sheath. Folder too, if you can, but I don't know how to. It needs enought belly to skin, and it needs a good strong point. Make these two match, and I don't care the specific style.
This is what I would want in a survival blade. My primary concern is having it on me, and so it needs to fit in my pocket. I wear a flight suit to work, and have no belt, or waistband, only pockets. It doesn't need to build me a house, since I only plan on staying out as long as it takes for someone to come pick me up. It needs to build a fire and a shelter, which I should be able to manage with three inches of blade in most any weather, with a wee bit of ingenuity.
Stryver
Owen, my Blackjack is a 'Squad Leader' with a 4.5 inch blade and micarta handle with pommel (the pommel has a screw on it unfortunately). It is very sharp and sharpens very easily. I love it.
I am also looking for a 1-7. Tried gun and knife shows, but they all seem to want too much for it (over $100). I might break down and buy one from E-Bay. Supposedly, some of them were not up to par on quality. Is there a way to tell those apart?
I am also looking for a 1-7. Tried gun and knife shows, but they all seem to want too much for it (over $100). I might break down and buy one from E-Bay. Supposedly, some of them were not up to par on quality. Is there a way to tell those apart?
CAman check this out: www.blackjackknives.com
I know they're high ($210 for a 1-7 Classic with black micarta like mine) but notice that they plan to reintroduce Blackjack knives (sort of) in the near future. Hope the pricing is a little easier on the wallet.
Love your knife. Makes me sick to remember having a chance to buy them for $49.99 on closeout years ago. I paid $62.50 for my 1-7 at Smoky Mountain Knife Works in Sevierville, TN in '95-retail was $130 and a bargain at that.
They mention that their models are pre-95 and made in Effingham (as mine was). I don't know Blackjack history, but maybe that is an indication that later models had some of the quality problems that we've heard about (when did they go under?).
Mine is extremely sharp, and easy to keep that way. Sharpest knife I've ever owned, and best $62.50 I ever spent.
Sorry to get off-topic.
I know they're high ($210 for a 1-7 Classic with black micarta like mine) but notice that they plan to reintroduce Blackjack knives (sort of) in the near future. Hope the pricing is a little easier on the wallet.
Love your knife. Makes me sick to remember having a chance to buy them for $49.99 on closeout years ago. I paid $62.50 for my 1-7 at Smoky Mountain Knife Works in Sevierville, TN in '95-retail was $130 and a bargain at that.
They mention that their models are pre-95 and made in Effingham (as mine was). I don't know Blackjack history, but maybe that is an indication that later models had some of the quality problems that we've heard about (when did they go under?).
Mine is extremely sharp, and easy to keep that way. Sharpest knife I've ever owned, and best $62.50 I ever spent.
Sorry to get off-topic.
SALTY
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2000
- Messages
- 5,806
Six inches or so, A-2 or BG-42, depending on climate, locale, etcetera. Spear point with some belly forward, sheath to hold sharpening stone and metal match (or round metal match and sparker in hollow handle, ala Chris Reeves).
VG-10 is also OK. I actually like the carbon steels better but they should have some protective coating on them.
BTW, give me a full .025 because you'll need to do much more than just cut if you want to survive.
[This message has been edited by Nimrod (edited 09-07-2000).]
VG-10 is also OK. I actually like the carbon steels better but they should have some protective coating on them.
BTW, give me a full .025 because you'll need to do much more than just cut if you want to survive.
[This message has been edited by Nimrod (edited 09-07-2000).]
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2000
- Messages
- 3,221
I think that's 0.25", right? As in 1/4", not 25 thousandths, right?
--JB
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e_utopia@hotmail.com
--JB
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e_utopia@hotmail.com
Call up Kelgin Website and look up his Basic Fighter. Picture a 4 1/4 to 5 in blade length with handle approx 4 1/2 in long. Get rid of the upper guard and make the spine relatively straight. Make it from ATS34 /154CFM or similar steel, 5/32 thick and approx 1 1/4 in wide. Make the slabs of stabilized wood/ micarta / G10 and contour the handle to best fit the hand(palm swell)
Put a lanyard hole in it.
Put a lanyard hole in it.
Thanks for all of the info! I never knew you guys liked specifics so much! This is why i like making blades...people always something different! I will prob do some drop point knives soon, along with a few spear point. Ill put up pics or rough drawings of them soon for you guys to check out! i cant amke any for a while cuz i am at college now and awaiting a new grinder. Thanks for all of the info!
I have a old Busse Steel Heart II, in A-2 steel. The new INFE steel is really in demand, but the A-2 version isn't too shabby either. I think its a pretty good all around knife, espically for chopping.
CAman
I see you're interested in Black Jack Classic 1-7. Why don't you opt for a real Randall No. 1 (the one Black Jack copied). The Randall is only about 20 bucks more, lots of ordering options, value increases with time, and you can put 20 bucks down ans save for about a year before shipping. Sometimes they have them available for immediate shipping.
www.randallknives.com
CAman
I see you're interested in Black Jack Classic 1-7. Why don't you opt for a real Randall No. 1 (the one Black Jack copied). The Randall is only about 20 bucks more, lots of ordering options, value increases with time, and you can put 20 bucks down ans save for about a year before shipping. Sometimes they have them available for immediate shipping.
www.randallknives.com