Svelte German Splitter

T

thunderstick

Joined
Jan 15, 2007
Messages
554
The axe head is a Condor that was purchased a number of years ago. It came on a 36" curved handle that IMO was not an optimum application. I found that Helko offered 28" handle replacements for their Speltaxe. I decided to buy one and hope that it would be a little over sized for fitting up to the Condor head. It was a nice oversize. Using a draw knife I fitted the Helko handle to the Condor head. I really like the balance and application. It is a great splitter for its size.
The intended application is a wood pile medium size kindling splitter and campfire splitter for when you want a short handled splitter that offers more than a short handled camp axe. I tend to split my wood pile rounds to optimum size for long burning in the stove--then I break down some medium and starter kindling from there. My miner's axe does the most of the kindling but sometimes I reach for a heavier splitter to make the initial split.
I have an aluminum guard coming from Muller. I will then decide whether that will be the final look or whether I will cover the aluminum guard with my trade mark hockey tape.
My Fiskars X25 just got bumped aside by this more traditional choice of a "svelte German" splitter..
German%20Splitter%20w-sheath_zpsvciwaose.jpg
German%20splitter_zps8ujaebgs.jpg
 
thunderstick said:
The axe head is a Condor that was purchased a number of years ago. It came on a 36" curved handle that IMO was not an optimum application. I found that Helko offered 28" handle replacements for their Speltaxe. I decided to buy one and hope that it would be a little over sized for fitting up to the Condor head. It was a nice oversize. Using a draw knife I fitted the Helko handle to the Condor head. I really like the balance and application. It is a great splitter for its size.
The intended application is a wood pile medium size kindling splitter and campfire splitter for when you want a short handled splitter that offers more than a short handled camp axe. I tend to split my wood pile rounds to optimum size for long burning in the stove--then I break down some medium and starter kindling from there. My miner's axe does the most of the kindling but sometimes I reach for a heavier splitter to make the initial split.
I have an aluminum guard coming from Muller. I will then decide whether that will be the final look or whether I will cover the aluminum guard with my trade mark hockey tape.
My Fiskars X25 just got bumped aside by this more traditional choice of a "svelte German" splitter..
German%20Splitter%20w-sheath_zpsvciwaose.jpg
German%20splitter_zps8ujaebgs.jpg
Click to expand...
That's a nice chunk of wood! You did well pairing those two together. Looks great!
 
It's a 4.5# head as I recall. I forgot to weigh it when I removed it. I noticed that Condor has since shortened their handle to 34" and maybe straightened the curve out a bit more. However a lot of reviews, like mine, show that the heads are still coming too loose and soon begin to move. I'm thinking the wood typically absorbs more moisture in their South American environment and then releases that moisture up here.

I prefer to handle my own splitters, using my own measures, since they receive so much impact. The 28" handle from Helko balances perfectly with this head. The design of the head is very good and the quality of steel is plenty good. All in all it splits much better than you might assume on a 28" handle. When splitting camping wood or splitting kindling, I'm always using a low chopping block. I take a cedar chopping block along when camping because it also doubles for a food prep surface sometimes. The 28" works great for an elevated split and the chopping block will catch the end of the swing before it wants to come back towards you.
 
I might add that with Helko you can order a handle that comes with a Linseed oil finish or the standard "crappy" lacquer that you need to remove. This worked out nicely with a linseed handle because with a quick sand with 60 grit you can rough it up. Then I lightly fire treated the handle to raise the grain and while it was still hot I rubbed in Watco Teak Oil. The hot wood sucks that right in. I then followed up with a dark walnut stain which only gives a partial absorption (because the Teak oil was first) to lightly darken the field and blacken the grain. With the handle still hot, the Watco and Stain are drawn in rapidly. Then, while still warm, I follow up with Birchwood Casey Tru-oil to seal in the stain level that I want. Essentially you rub with oil to remove the amount of stain color that you want removed and when you like it stop rubbing. I simply poured my oil on the stain rag so it was keeping some color in the oil application. The oil stain will continue to penetrate and then set up at that color. After that it is just more Birchwood Casey oil and wax in alternating coats. If you apply oil last you have more sheen and if you wax last you a more natural satin look. I left a little oil sheen on this to show the depth of the pretty grain.
 
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The aluminum over-strike guard arrived from Wisemen Trading yesterday. It is made by Muller. I will remove the Hocket tape and install it and post a pic--hopefully this weekend.
 
I added an aluminum shield from Muller today, then reinstalled hockey tape over it again
20200215_182204_zpsir0b1lxj.jpg
. The shield is pretty rugged and its a bit of a challenge to bend in to the handle and fasten it keeping everything snug fitting but it will definitely aid in spreading an over strike impact.
 
thunderstick said:
I added an aluminum shield from Muller today, then reinstalled hockey tape over it again
20200215_182204_zpsir0b1lxj.jpg
. The shield is pretty rugged and its a bit of a challenge to bend in to the handle and fasten it keeping everything snug fitting but it will definitely aid in spreading an over strike impact.
Click to expand...
Looks good! Is it tacked on? Or do the fasteners run through?
 
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