Swarf in the pivot?

M

My Young Apprentice

Joined
Dec 8, 2012
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132
I just got the Diamond Lanksy set and reprofiled my Griptilian in S30V. I noticed that the pivot got really rough, even with the axis lock pulled back. I figured some slurry got in the pivot, so I gave it a soapy water bath and worked the stuff free (or so I thought). So the pivot was working fine, put some mineral oil on it and whatnot. But it just got really rough again, out of the blue. The pivot is loc-tited, I did it myself after re-assembling it with the new scales. So it can't be that. My Leatherman did this too, but I thought it was just because it was a multi-tool and the pivot was right out in the open. I guess I'll have to take the Grip apart again and clean it, but is there a simple way to avoid this? I don't want to keep taking my knife apart and end up stripping the screws after a while.
 
Take masking tape and completely cover the blade and handle before sharpening.
 
rycen said:
Take masking tape and completely cover the blade and handle before sharpening.
Click to expand...

^That. OR, make sure to frequently wipe down the blade and hone, before the swarf gets so messy that it can't be contained. Sharpening WET, either with water or oil can somewhat keep it under control, but you still need to keep ahead of it with fairly frequent wiping of the blade and hone. DRY sharpening is far dustier, and it doesn't do my sinuses any good either.

With my Lansky, I used to use it with water, and with the clamp held in a small hobby vise (Pana-Vise) on a bench/countertop. The lower half of the clamp was held in the vise, with the honing work being done on the upward-facing side. I'd flip the clamp w/knife over, to do the bevel on the opposite side. With the blade held horizontally this way, there was seldom any opportunity for the wet/dirty drippings to run sideways into the pivot. Most everything dripped onto the counter or bench underneath.

I've occasionally used a mineral oil-based hand lotion as lubrication for sharpening, and I've noticed it does a very good job in containing the swarf. It's thicker than honing oil or water, so it doesn't 'run' into places you don't want it, as easily. It tends more to cling to the blade edge, and the edges of the hone. Still kinda messy, but it does have advantages. :)


David
 
Last edited:
Obsessed with Edges said:
^That. OR, make sure to frequently wipe down the blade and hone, before the swarf gets so messy that it can't be contained. Sharpening WET, either with water or oil can somewhat keep it under control, but you still need to keep ahead of it with fairly frequent wiping of the blade and hone. DRY sharpening is far dustier, and it doesn't do my sinuses any good either.

With my Lansky, I used to use it with water, and with the clamp held in a small hobby vise (Pana-Vise) on a bench/countertop. The lower half of the clamp was held in the vise, with the honing work being done on the upward-facing side. I'd flip the clamp w/knife over, to do the bevel on the opposite side. With the blade held horizontally this way, there was seldom any opportunity for the wet/dirty drippings to run sideways into the pivot. Most everything dripped onto the counter or bench underneath.

I've occasionally used a mineral oil-based hand lotion as lubrication for sharpening, and I've noticed it does a very good job in containing the swarf. It's thicker than honing oil or water, so it doesn't 'run' into places you don't want it, as easily. It tends more to cling to the blade edge, and the edges of the hone. Still kinda messy, but it does have advantages. :)


David
Click to expand...

Lol "David, where did all of my lotion go?!" "Erm....it's not what you think honey!" haha

The masking tape sounds easiest for now, as I don't have a vice. Thanks for the tips guys!
 
Try Saran Wrap (plastic food wrap)

Cheap, seals well, works great!

SrnWrp_zps0b5db9d6.jpg
 
WD-40 should take the dirt out and in most cases will keep the pivot lubed for some time. Not the greatest "lube" but it works.

Whenever you sharpen make sure to keep the blade clean and free of debris. I've never really had the problem you speak of so I would guess its just simply needing to be cleaner in the process.
 
There's a chance a particle got 'stuck' to the washer (nylon is prone to), then it's best be taken out by dismantling it.

I did have some when cutting a 'wave' freehand to Enlan EL01 using diamon file. Ended up taking out the blade, washer, etc and clean them up.
 
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