Swedge Grinding

Patrickknives

Patrickknives

Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
2,415
My swedge grinding is bad to poor, I think alot of its is layout and knowing how to execute. Anyone know of a tutorial or video that may help?

Thanks
 
Only one I can think of was done post HT and with a file. Let me see if I can dig it up...


-Xander
 
I find it much easier to do swedges before the main bevels. I also agree that draw-filing is way easier to control than a grinder, on such a small area.
 
I was afraid that would be the answere, I think I will go pre-heat treat. I have 3 to do I just need a better why to hold the blade while filing the swedge.
 
Look up nick wheeler's stuck in the metal with you thread. he has a jig that he made for hand sanding clips that would also work for draw filing them. I don't know where it is, but it never hurts to read it up to that point.
 
I've got some pads of boot sole leather for my vise, they are about 1/4" thick and work well for holding the blade edge down in the vise. Check your local shoe repair place for scraps or small cuttoffs.


-Xander
 
I've always done mine on the grinder after heat treat. If you have a table on your grinder and a piece of 2" X 2" or 3" X 3" angle iron at least a 1' long all you need to do is clap the blade to the angle iron and set the platen at the angle you want to grind. The angle iron will hold the blade the same every time. Do a few trial runs before you do the real thing.
 
Raymond Richard said:
I've always done mine on the grinder after heat treat. If you have a table on your grinder and a piece of 2" X 2" or 3" X 3" angle iron at least a 1' long all you need to do is clap the blade to the angle iron and set the platen at the angle you want to grind. The angle iron will hold the blade the same every time. Do a few trial runs before you do the real thing.
Click to expand...

Raymond,
I'm having a hard time picturing that but it sounds like it would work really well. I'll have to figure out exactly what you mean and give it a shot:thumbup: I guess I'm just wondering why you need the angle iron. If you set your table at the desired angle and lay the flat portion of the blade on the table, you can get a nice even grind on both sides if you use gentle, consistent strokes. How does the angle iron help? Thanks!
 
jonnymac44 said:
Raymond,
I'm having a hard time picturing that but it sounds like it would work really well. I'll have to figure out exactly what you mean and give it a shot:thumbup: I guess I'm just wondering why you need the angle iron. If you set your table at the desired angle and lay the flat portion of the blade on the table, you can get a nice even grind on both sides if you use gentle, consistent strokes. How does the angle iron help? Thanks!
Click to expand...

With the blade clamped to the angle iron it is held much more consistently. If you would like to talk about this at the OKCA Show I will be at table H-08.
 
I say this as a knifemaker:

This is by far the fastest and easiest way to grind swedges that I know off.

A friend stopped by my shop yesterday and ground swedges on two large fighters; it took 15 minutes to grind both of them.

You need a roomy tool rest to steady your hands, outside of that its a breeze.

Grind them after heat treat, there less chance of warping.

bubblejigmachine_jpg+001.jpg
 
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Raymond Richard said:
I've always done mine on the grinder after heat treat. If you have a table on your grinder and a piece of 2" X 2" or 3" X 3" angle iron at least a 1' long all you need to do is clap the blade to the angle iron and set the platen at the angle you want to grind. The angle iron will hold the blade the same every time. Do a few trial runs before you do the real thing.
Click to expand...

I can use this to get most of the work done and clean up with files and sandpaper, my draw filing is as bad as my swedge grinding. I think you are right keeping it steady and getting both sides equal will solve alot of my issues and help me get the swedge I want.

Thanks
 
The jig is no help with curved clips is it? Never tried it but I don't see how it would work. Not putting the bubble jig down mind you, to the contrary, I would love to be able to use it for curved clips as this is how I mostly do them. :(
 
I use a sine plate and stroke sander. :)

Johnny, I am picturing RR's setup like this...Please let me know if I was incorrect Ray.

jig.png
 
Carl_First_Timer said:
I use a sine plate and stroke sander. :)

Johnny, I am picturing RR's setup like this...Please let me know if I was incorrect Ray.

jig.png
Click to expand...

Other than the platen being to extreme that's pretty much what I was talking about. Also if you can make the table larger it really helps with the stability.

Patrick, I have used the set up for curved clips.

I also used the angle iron set up to grind this dagger blade.

IMG_3437.JPG
 
Check out the jig Sam Salvati made, it is an angle iron jig just like the one mentioned.

I freehand mine in post heat treat but I could see how a jig would really help.

I feel cutting in swedges is one of the tougher aspects of grinding, it is hard to feel such a steep bevel on the platen.
 
Patrice Lemée;10685873 said:
Thanks Raymond, I will give that a try. My clip grinding is about as good as Patrick's (OP).
Click to expand...

Patrice, I just noticed I got you mixed up with Patrick. Are you both Canadian? :D I'm not saying this method is fool proof but it does work. I'll have to change my platen setting sometimes and I think that is mainly because my table isn't really zeroed in. Just check from time to time to see how the progress is going. I've got a bowie blade that I'm about to finish up that has a curved clip on it. I'll post a picture of it when its done.

Daniel, I started using the angle iron in 2000 after I got an order from a fellow that wanted exactly 7/8" bevel all the way around the blade. I was just recovering from heart by pass surgery so I had lots of time to think about how I was going to grind this knife and that's how I came up with the idea. Even with as many false edges I have ground I still have to think twice about doing them and may put them off for a couple days. Its a problem for most makers.
 
Patrice Lemée;10685813 said:
The jig is no help with curved clips is it? Never tried it but I don't see how it would work. Not putting the bubble jig down mind you, to the contrary, I would love to be able to use it for curved clips as this is how I mostly do them. :(
Click to expand...


Curved clips are not a problem. I clamp the blade in the clamp, aligning it where I want the plunge to begin, set the bubble on the clamp and grind away. Moon and I ground a pair of clips with a "lot" of curve in them with no difficulty. If your grinder can be adjusted to vertical; the bubble will stay centered as you move along the radius of the swedge. The bubble will move left or right of center in the vial, but will still stay between the lines. Try it, you'll like it.

Fred
 
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