Swedge Help

Sean Yaw

Sean Yaw

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
Messages
417
I got some very helpful advice here a couple weeks ago related to hollow grinding. This week I am seeking wisdom on grinding swedges. Pre-2x72, I just put them in with files. I liked the results of those, but now that I have the 2x72, I should probably broaden my skillset. The biggest trouble I am having is with swedges on clip point (slipjoint) blades. How do you all go about putting those swedges in? How do your techniques change based on whether you want a "cut" or "drawn" swedge? Thank you.
 
i do mine on the workrest before the bevels, while the blade is flat. i scribe a centerline along the spine. i tilt my workrest, maybe 30-40 degrees for the spine of a japanese styled blade, and maybe up to 60 degrees for a sharp swedge. get the table real close to the platen or wheel. i had to grind underneath my workrest to get it to go close. it all depends on how much bevel you want. if you are very careful and keep the blade flat on the workrest, and do not go over the centerline, the swedge bevels on each side of the blade will be the same width and shape.
 
I use a 4" dd workrest bevel jig. I like to scribe my lines on the spine. I like doing them on my rotary platen but I'm going to focus on getting more comfortable setting up on the big wheel. At this point for me swedge grinding is the most uncomfortable part of the process. I get puckered up everytime. I find cut swedges a little easier than drawn. I struggle with bringing the back end of the draw swedge to a nice clean crisp point. I will allow for the fact that It's entirely possible I am doing them wrong.
 
Using a jig or adjustable work rests are great methods. But someone has to mention the Bubble Jig if using a flat platen. Here's my current method

1. Start with a high grit belt, like 220. (You're not removing much metal any way.)
2. Run the belt 1/8" or so off the platen
3. Set the Bubble Jig to ~20 degrees (varies based on blade thickness, desired look, etc.)
4. Run the grinder kinda slow
5. Steady my hands on my ample belly, lock in the elbows in tight
6. Press the blade in firmly and slowly, allowing the belt to cut with minimum pressure
7. Keep the belt parallel with the center line on the blade rather than the edge of the spine ( I hope that makes sense).
8. I don't go near the tip until the final passes with whatever belt I finish with.

Like Signalprick Signalprick the process makes me nervous.

I haven't tried a 'drawn' swedge yet myself.
 
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