Swedge or no swedge?

J

Jak Epp

Joined
Dec 27, 2023
Messages
204
I forged this harpoon point hunter the other day, and I am trying to decide whether or not I should attempt to put a swedge on it. I haven’t done a swedge before, and I don’t want to ruin it; I don’t have a jig or anything, so my idea was to do it with files. So what do y’all think? Does a knife like this look best with or without a swedge?
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I think this one would look weird without it. I have a super simple angle jig that I use almost exclusively for swedges, but files will most likely be ok too, even freehand.
 
Clips and swedges are easier than you think and can be a nice feature. I square my rest to the flat platen, then zero my angle gauge. Then I use the gauge to angle the table about 55 degrees to the platen. I do clips and swedges right after profiling, before grinding bevels. Scribe a center line and make light passes on each side with a 50 grit belt. Depending on your rest and the piece you are working on, you might get creative with thin pieces of wood or micarta to extend support by clamping to the rest.
Once it's roughed in up to the scribe line, you can refine it using brand new EDM stones.
A straight section like you are doing is the easiest. Curved sections aren't bad once you get the hang of it.
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Ken H> said:
Richard, that's some nice San Mai you've got there. Did you make it? Oh, a good looking Swedge also
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Thanks, but no, I'm a stock removal guy. I try to pick up various pieces of san mai and damascus when I have the opportunity.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Swedge ... definitely need a swedge.
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pafka said:
I think this one would look weird without it. I have a super simple angle jig that I use almost exclusively for swedges, but files will most likely be ok too, even freehand.
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That’s what I was thinking, too. The knife is going to a fellow who wants to be able to strike a ferro rod with it. I’ve never used a ferro rod before; will false edge strike a ferro rod fine?
 
my vote is no swedge
 
I'd say belt grind one in on a tall harpoon like that, you can practice first. As far back as that goes I'd do one with a plunge, there doesn't look like enough room for a smooth transition to the spine. It doesn't have to be near sharp either. Mine range between 15 to 20 degrees mostly. On a lower thumb ramp style it's 50/50, thicker blades more likely to get one than thinner ones. Example, if this is 3/32" I'd say no. 1/8" probably and thicker then definitely.

ETA by the way, nice profile~ You can use tape to control the start and stop locations. I often tape the tip so I stop early to leave the tip wider for extra strength. You'll probably have a distal taper so grind harder towards the back and let up gradually so you're just feathering as you approach the tip. That way the top will be even thickness all the way along the swedge.
 
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On a blade like that I usually set the swedge first. I grind it at 30-40° per side and make the swedge straight and clean. Next, I set the edge shape and grind the edge at 30-40° to set the center of the edge straight. Then I do the distal taper and bevels. This helps you see the swedge and edge as you shape the blade. Changes to the swedge can be made after the bevels and taper are roughed in.
 
just draw on it with a silver welding pencil, then you can see what it will look like with a swedge and decide if you like it or not.
 
D'Holder used to do a few patterns with a similar blade. His were all swedged, looked good. We did a similar bowie knife designed by him at Canal Street, I freehanded all the swedges, fairly easy when you have the base of that cut as a guide.

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Eric
 
The harpoon shape looks good with a swedge.
However, from a functional standpoint I loath swedges, and have yet to encounter a situation where one was or would have been beneficial. Not sure whether there is any real purpose to the harpoon profile either.
…but they are pretty to look at. So if I had a harpoon profile, I would swedge it…because it was already more about looks than functionality.
 
Only use i can see for the design is in an actual fighting knife. Although at that point maybe just have a dagger. Plus swedges do look cool

Anyway, for grinding it freehand i would grind it first with layout lines. Then the primary bevels, and true it all up on some stones
 
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