Swedish Military "Hand Axe"

S

Steve Tall

Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
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I was getting some stuff online and saw a "new" offering of a smaller military axe, which looked interesting so I added one to my order. Buying used military axes sight unseen is a bit of a gamble, since there can be variations from what is pictured in the ad.

Here is the one that I was sent, after I did a little work on it. The head is stamped "KB42", and I think the axe looks pretty good for being 69 years old.

IMG_3455b_1_1.jpg


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Head measurements: 6" by 3.5"
Head weight: 1 pound 13 ounces
Length: 25"
Total weight: 2 pounds 8 ounces

Without looking it up, I think the weight and length are pretty similar to the Scandinavian Forest Axe, but in this case it cost me less than $20. (Plus some work, but that didn't cost me since I did it during my "free time".)

I know the head weight since I removed it without damaging the handle (more on that here). Here's the profile from above:

IMG_3441_1_1.JPG


What else to say?
The handle had no splits.
The grain alignment was virtually perfect (for what it's worth).
The head balance was good.
The head alignment was very good.

Here's the axe as I received it. I later took off the head and applied some soy-based paint remover which took off the green, leaving some black oxidation on the head (which I left on). I didn't use vinegar and only did some light filing and sanding. I obviously also sanded down the handle. I'll do some more work on the edge before I re-wedge the head.

IMG_3421b_1_2_1.jpg
 
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Nicely done, I would call that an excellent catch.

How do you feel about the hole in the head? When it is all said and done, any impact in performace, etc, overall?
 
Operator1975 said:
...How do you feel about the hole in the head? When it is all said and done, any impact in performace, etc, overall?
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I don't think that the hole will be detrimental. I asked Peter Vido about this, and he agrees.

Maybe the supplier made a batch of axes that were a tiny bit over the spec weight, so they had to get rid of some weight somewhere. ;)

If not for simply hanging on the wall, maybe the hole is for racking/stacking/packing a bunch of axes on a rod of some sort.
 
nice work. i've been considering picking a similar surplus axe. i sure do like that one you got.
 
Good looking axe. Why not a vinegar or citrus patina? I think it would look great.
 
Steve Tall said:
I don't think that the hole will be detrimental. I asked Peter Vido about this, and he agrees.

Maybe the supplier made a batch of axes that were a tiny bit over the spec weight, so they had to get rid of some weight somewhere. ;)

If not for simply hanging on the wall, maybe the hole is for racking/stacking/packing a bunch of axes on a rod of some sort.
Click to expand...

I always thought that the hole was the way of the military as marking it as old military, discharged, whatever, that way it doesn't get back in their circulation.
 
Operator1975 said:
I always thought that the hole was the way of the military as marking it as old military, discharged, whatever, that way it doesn't get back in their circulation.
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This is hardened steel. Sounds complicated, also not that axes are that essential in armies.
 
Hey Steve,

I've been interested in this piece but I found an unfavorable review from Mike Hotel on his blog <http://thesharpenedaxe.blogspot.com/2011/09/swedish-army-axes-from-sportsmans-guide.html>. He says the steel is too soft. Not sure if he got a lemon or if he's right. Have you tested it out?
 
TEFL0N_D0N_81 said:
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Really it is difficult to judge because those axe are surplus that was collected other the years so you probably get a mix of various makers and various specs, also the axes may have seen some abuse by bored conscripts or wrong handling (like sharpening with power tools).

About hole in the head, I'd think this would be related with hanging it on some vehicle or something like that.
 
My axe seemed OK, but I haven't totally finished and used it yet, too many projects on the backburner.

I agree with Ravaillac that someone down the line might have been too heavy-handed with the bench grinder and ruined the temper. You're taking your chances with used military axes. Some real bargains, some not.

A friend of mine bought several of these axes and about half of them had handles about 3" shorter than the one I got (which I think is more in line with how they are advertised). Most had evidently been rehafted but some of these had the eye not totally filled with wood, and with a single metal wedge about half as wide as it should be (didn't run the whole length of the eye). Not quite the "like new" as advertised.
 
Hey Steve, do you mind telling me what the soy based paint remover you used it called? (I know this is an old thread, but hopefully you remember!) :)
 
M3mphis said:
Hey Steve, do you mind telling me what the soy based paint remover you used it called? (I know this is an old thread, but hopefully you remember!) :)
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It was called Soy Gel. After it melted through my rubber gloves, I looked into the MSDS for it and found that they recommend neoprene gloves! There is some chemical in there besides the soy oil. It got smelly, too. I coated the axe head and put it in a plastic bag overnight. Sometimes the paint wouldn't all scrape/wash off the next day, and I did another applicaton. Sometimes the thick paint would come right off. Seemed to work best if the axe head was hot (rinsed off with boiling water and dried before applying this stuff).

Once my quart bottle is all gone, I think I'll try the citrus-based stuff next, to see how it compares.
 
Steve Tall said:
It was called Soy Gel. After it melted through my rubber gloves, I looked into the MSDS for it and found that they recommend neoprene gloves! There is some chemical in there besides the soy oil. It got smelly, too. I coated the axe head and put it in a plastic bag overnight. Sometimes the paint wouldn't all scrape/wash off the next day, and I did another applicaton. Sometimes the thick paint would come right off. Seemed to work best if the axe head was hot (rinsed off with boiling water and dried before applying this stuff).

Once my quart bottle is all gone, I think I'll try the citrus-based stuff next, to see how it compares.
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Thank you, Sir. I have used "Citri-Strip" (I think that's right). The paint just melts off after like 5 minutes. I use a toothbrush to scrub it off, that's it. The reason I asked is, actually, because I have been trying to figure out a way to fake a nice dark patina. I think I might give that a try, it looks great in the pics!
 
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M3mphis said:
...I have been trying to figure out a way to fake a nice dark patina. I think I might give that a try, it looks great in the pics!
Click to expand...

To my knowledge, the Soy Gel didn't give a patina, it just removed the green paint that was covering the existing patina.

EDIT: I see how my wording in the original post was not clear about the black oxidation.
 
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Elegant and relatively simple technique for keeping handles intact for re-use . Thanks for sharing this.
 
Hi Steve Tall

You are one lucky guy to get this axe for twenty dollars. SUN OF A GUN you stole this axe at that price. I too own a KB42. I ordered my axe directly from Finland for
approximately $48.00 U.S. dollars. The axe was in above average conditioned when I received from the Finland military surplus store of Varusteleka.

The handle is in perfect shape(except the green paint) and I am in a difficult situation as to rehang the 2.75 axe with the original handle or rehang it with a beautiul 42"
hand picked octagon handle that I just received.

My axe head is 2.75 lbs. Your axe seems to be a little lighter than mine. Also, there is a hole bored through your axe head that my axe does not have. The hole will not affect the performance at all of your axe head.

Congradulations! Nice deal! Nice Axe!

Ripshin
 
Steve

Ripshin here again. How did you determine how old your & my KB42 Swedish axe heads are? I haven't had much luck in my research. I have just assumed the axe heads were made in 1942.

Ripshin
 
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