Sword Cost

Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
81
Hello.

I am looking at getting a sword. More I should say. I just got the waki (swamp rat) and I have a sword i got as a gift many xmas ago (I think from Sportsman Guide, I think it is 440 steel).

My question is where to set my budget.

I care more about function than I do looks or collectability. Ease of sharpening would probably be an interest since it will at some point have to be sharpened. I believe I would like the sword to flow out very smoothly from its sheath. I guess I need to know what are the main cost for sword making. Person, sheath, steel, finish?

So far I have been looking at Musashi Sword site and that is what lead me to this question.


Anyone have any thoughts?




Thanks,
rob
 
First, you're gonna need to find out what type of sword/sheath combo you want. Do you want to wear the sword on your back or on your hip? Do you want a scottish claymore (not sure if the spelling is correct.), a chinese dou, or a French rapier? Do you plan on carrying this thing in public, or just for fun to practice with? You'll probably want to avoid stainless steel, since its softer than tempered steel, which is more expensive. All of these factors affect prices.
 
Fleegs, I'd recommend that you pop over to places like swordforum to ask the same question. Some serious sword types there who can also answer your questions.

One thing to consider is that unless a very special blade by a very special maker, swords often do not resell for what you bought them for. Market is soft for reselling right now but you also have some fine makers with swords to move as well. Good luck to you!
 
As far as function, you're going to have to spend some to beat that Rodent Waki- what are you looking for that it won't do? (longer, fancier, ???)
 
What's up with not posting pics of your
I just got the waki (swamp rat)

Need to know your budget that is the biggest deal of them all...sure you can get a Chinese made katana from Bugei or Kult of Athena but if your budget is higher than custom is always the way to go
 
fleegs,

As an example, my favorite sword maker has made blades I have purchased from anywhere from $450 used to over $1K new. Some other top makers often command more due to more detailed work and detailed scabbards.

Good luck to you!
 
As far as function, you're going to have to spend some to beat that Rodent Waki- what are you looking for that it won't do? (longer, fancier, ???)

I think I am looking for a little longer. The Waki is awesome though. I think of it has a big knife. I might trying battoning with it. I want to see if it can replace the Bark River Golok (1095).

I am leaning towards a sword that is forged, sharp and has a sheath that fits well to draw it from. I would like a steel that is very easy to sharpen. Think Rambo 4 knife design but in a sword.


rob
 
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What's up with not posting pics of your

Need to know your budget that is the biggest deal of them all...sure you can get a Chinese made katana from Bugei or Kult of Athena but if your budget is higher than custom is always the way to go


That is what I am trying to decide. I am not sure where performance and price merge. I am thinking around 500 to get a forged sword that is easy to sharpen.


Rob
 
fleegs,

As an example, my favorite sword maker has made blades I have purchased from anywhere from $450 used to over $1K new. Some other top makers often command more due to more detailed work and detailed scabbards.

Good luck to you!

Who is your favorite sword maker?

Does the $450 perform any less than the $1000+ sword? Or is the cost coming from materials or attention to detail?


Rob
 
Would anyone think it would be a good idea to wait until Blade 2010 and buy a sword there?



Rob
 
Would anyone think it would be a good idea to wait until Blade 2010 and buy a sword there?



Rob


Buying a sword in person is pretty tough for several reasons. Being a VERY specialized field, not all that many smiths produce swords. On the other hand, there's also such a ridiculous amount of variation in swords between time and location, that it would be even harder to find exactly what you're looking for.




What you want to do is come up with a better idea as to what you want, what you expect out of your purchase, and what you can afford to spend.

If you plan on taking classes in swordsmanship, the best thing you can do is forgo buying a sword now. Many classes have specific requirements in blade specs, especially JSA(Japanese Sword Arts).

If you want a backyard cutter, something for light targets on occasion, then companies like Windlass and Chenness would be a good start. They are affordable and functional, but won't stand up to rigorous use.

Since you currently own a Rodent Waki, remember that you're right about it being a large knife. That thing is overbuilt to be nearly indestructible, and historically swords are NOT. While the Rodent can probably take hard targets and keep on going, a proper sword is built to cut flesh, LIVE bone, and LIGHT armor(leathers, clothing, NOT steel). A properly made Japanese sword, even a ridiculously expensive one, can be damaged even in a sword target when the cut is improperly aligned.

A lot of people don't understand that last part, thus the occasional story/video of some idiot trying to attack a tree with a stainless wallhanger, and someone gets seriously injured. Other swords that are also overbuilt, though, would be the Japanese style swords from Cold Steel. They're a bit heavy and not balanced for practitioners, and are a tad pricey, but they're good cutters and are hard to screw up.
 
Buying a sword in person is pretty tough for several reasons. Being a VERY specialized field, not all that many smiths produce swords. On the other hand, there's also such a ridiculous amount of variation in swords between time and location, that it would be even harder to find exactly what you're looking for.




What you want to do is come up with a better idea as to what you want, what you expect out of your purchase, and what you can afford to spend.

If you plan on taking classes in swordsmanship, the best thing you can do is forgo buying a sword now. Many classes have specific requirements in blade specs, especially JSA(Japanese Sword Arts).

If you want a backyard cutter, something for light targets on occasion, then companies like Windlass and Chenness would be a good start. They are affordable and functional, but won't stand up to rigorous use.

Since you currently own a Rodent Waki, remember that you're right about it being a large knife. That thing is overbuilt to be nearly indestructible, and historically swords are NOT. While the Rodent can probably take hard targets and keep on going, a proper sword is built to cut flesh, LIVE bone, and LIGHT armor(leathers, clothing, NOT steel). A properly made Japanese sword, even a ridiculously expensive one, can be damaged even in a sword target when the cut is improperly aligned.

A lot of people don't understand that last part, thus the occasional story/video of some idiot trying to attack a tree with a stainless wallhanger, and someone gets seriously injured. Other swords that are also overbuilt, though, would be the Japanese style swords from Cold Steel. They're a bit heavy and not balanced for practitioners, and are a tad pricey, but they're good cutters and are hard to screw up.

I'd quibble slightly over the point you made about swords only being able to stand up to light armor (it really depends on the sword and culture) but other then that, I think you have made some outstanding points here, ones that it would be good for our OP to consider.
 
Who is your favorite sword maker?

Does the $450 perform any less than the $1000+ sword? Or is the cost coming from materials or attention to detail?

I am blessed that Michael "Tinker" Pearce is 25 minutes away. He is my favorite "traditional" sword maker.

I recognize that his costs are often related to most of his work being hand done, cost of materials and so on. Does his blades cut any better? Maybe or maybe not. Hard to say. But HolyRoller made an excellent post to that.
 
I'd quibble slightly over the point you made about swords only being able to stand up to light armor (it really depends on the sword and culture) but other then that, I think you have made some outstanding points here, ones that it would be good for our OP to consider.

Thanks, though I can't think of any cultures outside of fantasy that advocated actually attempting to cut THROUGH steel plate armor as opposed to getting around it. Or crushing it with a bludgeon, which would be my choice.
 
Thanks, though I can't think of any cultures outside of fantasy that advocated actually attempting to cut THROUGH steel plate armor as opposed to getting around it. Or crushing it with a bludgeon, which would be my choice.

Oh I agree with that, you can't actually cut through a good suit of plate with a sword, but a complete suit of plate statistically speaking was not the rule of the day on the battle field, even in later periods (mail was far more common) and before that mail was preeminent. If you work at it a sword can be effective against mail, but I don't consider mail to be light armor.
 
Are any of the modern "tactical" type swords up to what the OP has in mind? The makers' names escape me, but I know I've followed some links in the past to what looked like some pretty sturdy swords at his price point.
 
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