Sword cutting edge

David Stifle

David Stifle

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
10,188
Hi guys,

I have a question. What is the best type of edge for a fighting sword, 23" blade. do you find a zero tolerance edge the best, or do you prefer a secondary bevel? I've made a upswept 5160 persian style blade and the edge is now ground down very fine, to the point where I could either continue and put a zero tolerance edge on, or do a microbevel. Just not sure which is the best for a sword. As soon as I can get my camera to upload (not sure what the problem is), I'll post some pictures.



Thanks,

Dave
 
That depends on the grind, the steel, the heat treat, and the types of targets you plan to cut with it. Japanese swords have no secondary bevel and have pretty hard edges, but they have a cannel grind and were designed to be used against lightly armored or unarmored targets. A sword for cutting relatively soft targets could have a perfectly flat grind with no secondary bevel, but you'd want to temper it back a little more for most steels or risk the edge chipping. If you want to chop cinder blocks and iron shields, you're better off with a high temper and a big secondary bevel.

- Chris
 
agree mostly with Chris but would like to add that if the edge chips during intended use then tempering softer (not even considering tempered martensite embrittlement) will usually result in ductile failure in the same use... I look for simultaneous chipping and deformation (assuming all the heat treat went right) as a clue that the alloy and ht are pretty much on but the geometry is too thin

For a persian style blade I'd go close to zero grind to impress my friends and influence people
 
What is a zero tolerance/zero grind???

Anyone have a pic they can post to better explain it. . .thanks!
 
Zero grind refers to having no bevel, or micro bevel on the blade.
It means both sides of the cutting edge meet at the same angle, producing a no bevel edge.

A zero bevel edge is difficult to put, but the real issue is the fact that the edge will be so fine, that it is easier to damage than a wider angled bevel edge. Few sword manufacturers do zero bevels for the reason that it's easier to damage.


One way to know if you have a bevel edge is to shine a light to it. What you will be looking for is if the light reflected on the flat of the edge is even throughout, from the top of the flat to the sharp edge.
This is Ricky (Hung Shing True Sharp owner)
[video=youtube;Va8r49mBiiA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Va8r49mBiiA[/video]
 
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