sword sharpening grit sizes on new stones

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dbreeze225

Joined
Sep 12, 2014
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hey guys i made a post and got some answers but want to elaborate basicly now i have the lansky standard kit with guide rods, a aluminum oxide (fine on one side coarse on other) and a VERY fine stone my father gave me someone suggested that it might be a belgium blue i tend to agree but not 100% positive so any way i want to step up my game a lil i had come across the "edge pro" thought about it but i dont think it would be good for LONG knives and swords so looking around i am leaning toward suehiro water stones sets either .. one 800, one 1000/3000, one 6000 for around $95 then i thought 800 and 1000 is prity close togather so i dont know if i need both kept looking and found i could also get a.... one 240/1000, one 3000, one 6000. for like 125$ now my main question is is 6000 high enough to get RAZOR edges on knives and swords or do i need to go higher like i said in my other post this will be my first complete set and wanna do it right but if there are any people out there sharpening swords (mainly katanas) i would appreciate advice on what grit sizes i need.....any advice at all would be helpfull wether its on theese stones or any other stones there are so many option but from what can find water stones are the best for the price. if any one has the edge pro let me know your opinion on if it can handle sword i cam to my conclusion just on pics and videos thanks every one
-dave
 
Kind of bad form to make a second post almost identical to your first asking pretty much the same questions. Don't be surprised if this gets merged or closed.
 
well the other one i didnt ask about edge pro wich i wanted to see what people have to say about it and i also didnt ask about how high of a grit i need wich is the main question here ...yeh i did explain my situation in this same as other one but i want the reader to know where i am at it may influence advice i know if i was giving advice to some one about something it would be a lil diffrent if they were a expert at something compared to some one that is new to the subject
 
If you must ask what stones to use for sword sharpening then you are not ready for sword sharpening. It's far more complex than you seem ready for so I would leave it up to the professionals.

To better help you with stone selection answer these questions.
What is your budget?
What knives do you plan to sharpen? Any razors, chisels, traditional Japanese cutlery?
What degree of refinement do you want? Not sharpness but refinement, how much polish and smoothness do you require from the edge?
Any exotic steels?
 
what about this edge pro system seems good enough for knive i do not know if it can handle a blade as long as a sword or if it can do curved blades
 
dbreeze225 said:
what about this edge pro system seems good enough for knive i do not know if it can handle a blade as long as a sword or if it can do curved blades
Click to expand...

The edge pro is less than ideal for doing a sword. Its physically possible i suppose , but you will spend an absurd amount of time sharpening the sword incorrectly.

A belt sander or a buffer is easiest for modern user swords (cold steel , hanwei etc)

On traditional historical Katanas sword polishing is an art that takes years to master. And should be done by a skilled professional.
 
to answer jason about 200$ pocket knives stainless steel dagers i do have a cheap wall hanger sword that i was going to practice on until i get comfortable and i would like to get them as sharp and as polished as posible
 
You can't practice on a wall hanger, it's not made like a sword and would be awful to practice on. Leave it on the wall.

For stones your going to need a few basic things, first is a good lapping plate. I recommend the Atoma 140, it's worth every bit of its price and works very well for lapping waterstones. Next I would recommend Nubatama waterstones, the 150/1200 combo would give you a good starting point to build on and keeps you well within your budget. Once you save up some add the Nubatama Ume 4k stone and that should round out your set.
 
jason i was looking on http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/ came across a couple things that they recamend.....first and the cheapest is the norton water stone kit includes a 220/1000 and a 4000/8000 and a flatening stone......then if you click sharpening stones then water stones naniwa makes a few different stones (super stone, chosera, economical ect) but if you go to the botom of page they have a 3 stone 4 stone and 5 stone kit. 5 stone to expensive but i was thinking of the norton stones or either the 3 or 4 stone from naniwa........have you ever used theese or know about them would you recamend or no?
 
oh forgot i also came opon a set of suehiro stones new and unopend on ebay suehiro stones one 240/1000, one 3000, one 6000.....for around $120 what do you think of that
 
dont know if it maters i found out the naniwa 3 and 4 stone i was talking about are there "new super stones"
 
Naniwa stones are very good, the super stone (new super stones) are softer and apply a lot of polish. They also wear quickly so that's something to keep in mind for the 220, 400, and 1000.
 
So I would not recommend the EP for swords. Too small and inappropriate in many ways too long to list.

Jason is throwing up caution flags to you - and I agree completely.

If you are attempting to work on swords, traditional Japanese swords can go into the tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars with stones well in excess of $1k each. If you did get hold of one, you would quickly turn it into a hundred dollar sword. You should also primarily be using natural stones, which is a whole other topic. IF you are using a few synthetics for coarse work, you shouldn't even be asking questions on the level you are asking. In short, spend several years sharpening before approaching this subject.

At the other end of the scale are the 'Mall-ninja' cheap swords used for wall decorations. Leave them on the wall. If you are cutting anything, just the act of swinging them let alone cutting anything has a very high likelihood of the blade SHATTERING and severely injuring your self.

I would recommend non-traditional well made swords MADE for cutting using modern steels. There are several custom makers and some Commercial companies like Cold Steel that have something that sounds appropriate, depending on your price range.

When you have selected your weapon of choice, come back and re-ask the question and we can give you more useful advice.

---
Ken
 
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