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- Feb 25, 2006
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- 44
What is the grit size as compaired to a Norton 8000?
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Sypderco Ultra Fine
- Thread starter Sure Shot Rick
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2005
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- 549
from what I remember its close to a 1200 grit.
- Joined
- May 28, 1999
- Messages
- 2,606
Hard to compare waterstone grits to american grits. From experience I can say that the black medium grit spyderco ceramics leave an edge similar to 1200 grit DMT diamond stones. This edge feels about twice as fine than my 1000 grit shapton waterstone. The white ceramics I've used leave a finish (I'd estimate) at least 4000 grit waterstone region(mirror polished), and maybe even the 6000 to 8000 if it's well broken in, though it's difficult to make that comparison without doing both side by side..
Well its been a big discussion. It is not possible to define a precise grit rating for the ceramic stones. Grit relates to a particle size but the Spyderco stones all start with the same particle size, but get sintered differently. The sintering reduces the "effective" particle size, but there is really no way of measureing other by comparsion to abrasives with a defined grit.
It also depends how clean they are and whether you use the corners or the flats, but new and clean I would say the medium are around 1000 grit (japanese waterstone equivalent, always), some may say a bit rougher some say a bit finer. Personally I would rate them actually more like 800-900. The fine are around 2000-2500, I would say again, if you collect the experience on the forums that I frequent, it is a pretty big spread but I would say this amounts about to the average. I would think that 4000 is a bit too high for them. I find that the corners of the UF are very similar to the F, but the flats are a lot smoother. I would say 4000 or even a little bit finer, but definitely nowhere near as fine as an 8000 grit, especially if you use a nagura stone and let mud build up.
But the grit numbers all aside, you get a VERY, VERY sharp edge if you finish of with the UF flats.
It also depends how clean they are and whether you use the corners or the flats, but new and clean I would say the medium are around 1000 grit (japanese waterstone equivalent, always), some may say a bit rougher some say a bit finer. Personally I would rate them actually more like 800-900. The fine are around 2000-2500, I would say again, if you collect the experience on the forums that I frequent, it is a pretty big spread but I would say this amounts about to the average. I would think that 4000 is a bit too high for them. I find that the corners of the UF are very similar to the F, but the flats are a lot smoother. I would say 4000 or even a little bit finer, but definitely nowhere near as fine as an 8000 grit, especially if you use a nagura stone and let mud build up.
But the grit numbers all aside, you get a VERY, VERY sharp edge if you finish of with the UF flats.
Yup, I love the finish produced by the UF's. HoB basically said it all, except I've been told that medium = 600ish, fine = 1200ish, UF = 3000ish. Notice the ish - this is not perfect. These numbers came from the last time I asked this question. Members of this site have compared the edges under a magnification device and the finishes produced were equivalent to approximately 600, 1200, 3000.
I don't care what grit they are the UF's leave a great working edge. I find they align the metal on the edge of the blade like a smooth steel, but they remove a tiny amount of metal. It works great for quick thouchups on a barely dulled blade.
I don't care what grit they are the UF's leave a great working edge. I find they align the metal on the edge of the blade like a smooth steel, but they remove a tiny amount of metal. It works great for quick thouchups on a barely dulled blade.
Sal Glesser
Moderator
- Joined
- Dec 27, 1998
- Messages
- 11,671
Thanx HoB,
The UF is a very unique stone.
It is used dry (advantages and dis-advantages are another thread), but that means clean sharpening. It does need to be washed when both sides are loaded, but it doesn't ever wear out.
It is surface ground to be flat, and it doesn't ever wear out or change shape, so it will always be flat without resurfacing.
It is hard enough to sharpen any steel or carbide. (9.22 on the Moh's (sp?)scale, a sapphire).
It leaves a very very fine edge.
Woodworkers appreciate the stone.
It is not very profitable as it is extremely expensive to produce.
Tooling costs are very high.
I keep it in the line, despite low sales volume, because I believe it is a unique and worthwhile pice of equipment that is worth preserving.
We do have a 3" x 8" UF in the works which increases versatility for wider cutting tools.
sal
The UF is a very unique stone.
It is used dry (advantages and dis-advantages are another thread), but that means clean sharpening. It does need to be washed when both sides are loaded, but it doesn't ever wear out.
It is surface ground to be flat, and it doesn't ever wear out or change shape, so it will always be flat without resurfacing.
It is hard enough to sharpen any steel or carbide. (9.22 on the Moh's (sp?)scale, a sapphire).
It leaves a very very fine edge.
Woodworkers appreciate the stone.
It is not very profitable as it is extremely expensive to produce.
Tooling costs are very high.
I keep it in the line, despite low sales volume, because I believe it is a unique and worthwhile pice of equipment that is worth preserving.
We do have a 3" x 8" UF in the works which increases versatility for wider cutting tools.
sal
- Joined
- May 28, 1999
- Messages
- 2,606
I should probably add that my numbers were based off of well used stones, and in the case of the white ceramic, it's from a lansky serrated hone that's been very heavily used and cleaned with abrasives, and is quite a bit finer than a new white ceramic. A well used dmt ultrafine diamond(1200 grit rated) and medium spyderco ceramic are finer than my shapton 1000, which pretty much stays at a consistent level of cutting ability.
The numbers for the fine stones are based off of edge aggressiveness and visible finish. My 4000 grit polish stone leaves a visible scratch pattern, though it's still fine enough to see your reflection in, and becomes mirror like after a few passes on a strop. My white ceramic stone leaves a mirror finish on my edges, with no visible scratch pattern unless you look at under intense lighting or a magnifier.
The numbers for the fine stones are based off of edge aggressiveness and visible finish. My 4000 grit polish stone leaves a visible scratch pattern, though it's still fine enough to see your reflection in, and becomes mirror like after a few passes on a strop. My white ceramic stone leaves a mirror finish on my edges, with no visible scratch pattern unless you look at under intense lighting or a magnifier.