SystemThree Mirror Coat epoxy finish

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Oct 9, 1998
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WoodCraft sent me their catalog today, and near the end, I noticed a product called "Mirror Coat" made by System Three (I think). It's an epoxy type finish to add high gloss finish to wood. The picture shows a really shiny tree stump tea table or something. Anyone know if it will work for adding a waterproof and high gloss finish for knife handles? At 25 dollars a pint, it ain't exactly cheap stuff. Sure would save a lot of time tung oiling and steel wooling repeatedly... probably would seal better too and more high gloss.
 
It should work fine for that but it won't give you the depth that you think it would. For a less expensive and in my opinion, better finish with depth, use clear hardware store epoxy. Heat it with a heat gun to make it flow better. This will be your base. When completely dry sand it with fine sandpaper (220) to remove any imperfections and then go to 400 grit and at last 600. Clean it with mineral spirits and add a layer of Spar varnish. Let dry and sand with 400 then 600. Add a number of layers of Spar varnish. With each layer the finish will get deeper and more liquid looking.

For people who like shiney finishes this is just beautiful and is waterproof as well as very scratch resistant. If the finish gets worn just sand and add another coat or two.
 
Just use common epoxy? Is longer set time better? I got a decent amount of 30 minute epoxy, but can get 5 minute epoxy dual tubes pretty cheap too ($1.99 for Devcon epoxies at my hardware store).
 
In my opinion (for what it's worth) longer set is always better unless you are dealing with something that either can't be clamped or there is a risk of running or sagging. When dealing with wood, the longer it is on there before setting the deeper hold it gets in the grain.
I expect the "System 3 they are selling is West's System three epoxy" it's just a thinner grade of epoxy. For the most part the real difference in epoxy is in the curing rate and the thickness. There are some differences in UV resistance but epoxy is not very UV resistant in any form. That's why boat people use the above procedure to varnish their woodwork. The Spar varnish resists UV better than Epoxy.
As to the thickness, companies use fillers to increase thickness. Some use Talic and that not only is NOT waterproof but will absorb some water and make the joint or fill fall apart. Some use metal to make the fill harder for threading etc. If you ever want the strongest filler ever made, mix up a batch of West Epoxy, hold your breath and chop up some asbestos. The barbs that make it so bad for you also make it the strongest filler on earth. ....Gee, I'm going on.

OH to answer your question, use 90 minute or 120 if you can find it.
 
Peter, not sure I got much asbestos. Maybe they have some in the attic for insulation, but I doubt it. And my mom and dad would be pissed if they found me chopping parts out of the house and grinding it up to put it in epoxy. I got a respirator with a P100 filter anyway, so not much need to hold my breath. Not sure I have access to epoxies with 90 to 120 minute set times though. Devcon 2 ton (30 minute) is probably the best I can find in clear.
 
Not quite sure how I got to the fillers anyway. You know how old folks ramble.:D 30 minute should work fine
 
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