Taking knife pics

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
20,978
Not trying to brag or boast....just wanted to show that with a little forethought, a very nice picture can be taken with a simple point-n-shoot digital camera.

I placed the knife on a cutting board, and used 3 of those cheap shop lamps to light the scene, adding a light-diffusing cloth between the light and the knife.

This is just one of the pics I took of a knife I finished recently. The rest of the pics are here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=303484

But I thought that this one was the most dramatic/creative/fun to look at.

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I wouldn't use this as the main pic, but as a supplement to a good, straight-on side pic.


If anyone's curious.....the process takes me about 1-2 hours from start to finish....setting it up, to final editing on the computer.

I usually wait and try to do several knives at once to save time/energy.

Thanks for looking.
 
That's a great shot Daniel! Another idea I'm wanting to try is using one of those really big clearish (foggy looking) storage boxes from Walmart. Turn it upside down, cut a hole for the camera lens, have lights surrounding the tub, and so the lights diffused. I read about it on the camera section of the CKD forum once. When you're done, pack everything in the tub!
 
Nice photo!
The key to good pictures is the lighting.
Some study and practice will yield good results.

The camera is just a vehicle that captures light. Of coarse the more you spend the better the quality. But if you learn the camera you have and focus your energy on the light set up you will be far ahead of the game.
 
FWIW, here is a link to some comments and pics regarding knife photo composition I placed on the CKD knife photography forum.
http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23107

Getting well-shot pictures of their knives for marketing their wares is something most makers seem to overlook. However, that old saw about "A picture is worth a thousand words" applies in the blade selling arena too. That's especially the case for customers & collectors who don't live close enough to the maker that they can handle the blades in person.
 
Daniel Koster taken with a simple point-n-shoot digital camera. the process takes me about 1-2 hours from start to finish....setting it up said:
1-2 hours from start to finish :eek:
so much for point-n-shoot :D

very nice Dan I'm pulling your leg .. :) good pictures take time
which is a lot of my problem, and my damn camora :grumpy: :)
 
Daniel Koster said:
just wanted to show that with a little forethought, a very nice picture can be taken with a simple point-n-shoot digital camera.

I.

1-2 hours from start to finish :eek:
so much for point-n-shoot :D

very nice Dan I'm pulling your leg .. :) good pictures take time
which is a lot of my problem, and my damn camora :grumpy: :)
 
so, does your double-post mean you're pulling both my legs?

:eek:




:p
 
RokJok - you've seen my pics....how do you rate this set (posted in the Gallery)?

Be honest and fair....I can take it...:D
 
Daniel Koster said:
so, does your double-post mean you're pulling both my legs?

:eek:

:p
yeahup must have been pulling both,, you don't have a leg to stand on now :( :D
 
Hi Daniel,

My most generic comments first:
- You already know that I really like the look of the santuko itself. It looks like it would be a great addition to anybody's kitchen. The beauty offered by the woodgrain & blade shape is nicely set off by the contrasting spacers set at an angle the flows easily into the surrounding knife parts. The shape and colors of the knife, especially the handle, makes it appealing as a photo subject.
- IMHO a lighter background surface would reduce some of the trouble I had with shadows. On some of the shots it became difficult to see where in the shadowed areas of the frame the knife ended and the background began. Note that this is a very VERY common problem in knife photos or shots of other objects laying directly on the background. The solution is to cast a bit of light into those deeply shadowed areas with either another light source or a reflector.

I assume the background used in these pictures is a cutting board. Using one made of light-colored maple wood would have bounced some of the available light back onto the knife parts, thereby reducing the loss of subject edge integrity in the shadows. However, be aware that I am VERY biased toward the intrinsic beauty of wood in almost any object. YMMV.

On most of the shots I liked your use of diagonal composition. The old rule of thumb is that diagonals are more dynamic (read "interesting") than strictly vertical & horizontal lines, and that circles are even more dynamic than diagonals. Note that you can achieve diagonal or circular composition with vertical/horizontal lines (or vice versa) through the use of repetition and patterning within the frame.

Likewise, most of your shots have parts of the knife running off the edge of the frame, thereby achieving the anchoring I was talking about in the link to CKD. The two shots you have that don't have physical anchoring to the frame edge are the one with the text and the one showing the full left side of the knife.

On the shot with the text, the space-filling achieved with the cucumber and word sizing & placement serves to keep the eye moving around in the frame. The induced eye movement seems to bump into the upper- & lower-right edges of the frame mostly, which yields a virtual anchoring to those edges even though the text elements aren't physically touching those edges. I suspect that in moving from one text block to another the eye overshoots the target and thus contacts the frame ege, then makes the micro-jump back onto the text to actually read it. Also light-colored areas in that picture form a circular pattern around the middle of the picture, which makes it easy for the eye to keep moving. Circles are easy for the eye to follow. :)

The other shot without the anchoring (full left side shot of knife) is one of the two shots I consider weakest of the set IMHO. That shot illustrates the difficulty of judging the size of the knife due to lack of auxilliary referential elements in the frame with the knife. The floating that the shot could have incurred is pretty much non-existent because you spanned the entire frame by bringing the tip & butt of the knife very very close to the corners of the frame.

The other shot I had technical difficulty with was the shot of the knife held in hand. The two downsides I saw in that shot were:
1. The lighting of the frame cast both the background and the tip of the knife in deep enough shadows that the tip disappears completely into the darkness of the background. This visual loss of some part of the main subject is also a pretty common phenomenon from what I've seen. This is particularly true when there is an insufficienct number of light sources. Also, hand-holding the knife steady in the frame while simultaneously shooting the shot I have found difficult and the results usually less than optimal. Maybe we need to have someone start up a Knife Models Agency to contract in people with aesthetically pleasing hands to hold knives for blade photographers. :D
2. Skin color on the hand seems to have a color shift toward red. If that is the actual color of your hand, my judgement of the color shift is amiss. The lighting in that shot looks almost as if there were light sources of two different color temps. Or maybe that the color of the light was incorrectly compensated by the camera's CCD (assuming a digi-cam). Were there overhead flourescent lights or an incandescent light influencing the shot maybe?

The thing I liked about the pic of the santuko in hand was that the scale of the knife was instantly established. Even given the difference that can exist in adult hand sizes, seeing the knife in hand was easily the most intuitively educational of the pics.

On the shot you included at the top of this thread, my inclination would be to eliminate the out-of-focus blade from the frame. To see what I mean, just place a sheet of paper (or other obstructing straight-edge) just left of where the handle ends in the picture and "chop off" the blade. To me the real focus of this shot was the ball-shaped swell at the butt of the handle. Having so much out-of-focus data at the upper left corner needlessly draws the eye away from that swell. Notice that the grain pattern in the swell makes repeating partial circles to help lock the eye onto that swell. Likewise, if the eye tries following the tang-line further up the handle the woodgrain lines coming down from the palm swelling recirculate the eye back to the butt swell.

Well, that's my off-the-cuff $0.02 worth. :)

(edited for spelling and sorting out my left from my right :rolleyes: )
 
RokJok - thank you for the excellent review. I made sure to read it twice to get everything. Comments like yours fall easy on the ears of someone schooled in design. That said, I really appreciate that you worded it in a way that should make sense to everybody (not just me).

I try to keep within the rule of thirds....and agree with your criticism of the pics I had that were weak. I needed to hear it from somebody else, though...ya know how that is, right? :D


The cutting board was an interesting choice because the blue forms a natural color contrast with the almost "orange-ish" handle. If I could do it again, I'd keep the board, but use reflectors to bring the light levels up. A few times, I have actually used small flashlights with thin diffusing material over them to highlight certain areas.


Good eye on the multiple light sources....;)....2 flourescents on the side, 1 incandescent in the back and flourescants providing infill above (ceiling mounted).

I really need to invest in some daylight bulbs....:rolleyes:.....but I keep spending all my money on wood and steel....:D
 
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