Well, I finally went overboard and into water over my head! I will make (read attempt) a 4" drop point knife for my uncle out of 1/8 A-2 for deer skinning and my cousin's boyfriend wants me to make him a 4" blade boot knife with single edge and a false edge (Double Edges are a no no in CT) with a carbon fiber handle. I think I will do something like Dogman's fighting knife, not a double edge bootknife, but rather more of a single edge spear point with a false edge. I will probably order 1.5" A-2 from McMaster-Carr, along with some 50 grit ceramic sanding 1x30 belts. Does anyone know where I can get 36 or 40 grit ceramic belts in 1x30??? Also, the carbon fiber handle slabs might be a problem. I will be grinding them outside and will prob wear gloves, long sleeves, respirator and full face shield and have some water buckets handy. Halpertitanium has the carbon fiber, but $80 a sq. foot?????? I emailed Carver, who had some carbon fiber scales for sale, so I will see how that turns out. I think I will keep that handle pretty much square, so it will be less shaping and dust. I will use Paul Bos for the heat treat...it's $10 a blade up to 6 blades, then up to 20 blades for $60, right? I will probably have only 2 or 4 blades to send to him, so I will have to pay $10 a blade. I will probably use stag handles on my uncle hunting knife. Sheaths aren't my concern now; I might just get them from texas Knifemakers supply.
I just have one problem. I am having some trouble getting the grinds on both sides the same thickness. I am using 3/16" steel, so it needs a lot of grinding. The aren't too off, just barely noticable. The platen and belt don't line up, either. Can I make a platen of micarta that it beveled a little and just press the knife up against that to get an even flat bevel? It's hard to hold the knife at the same angle on each side and I was wondering if I could do a beveled platen instead (maybe 5 degree bevel over a few inches) and just hold the blade into that. Also, is there some way I can mount a small wheel of some sort on the platen to do contact grinding? I'm just trying to think of ways to make the 1x30 more versitile and fun to play with. I also have to move my grinding operation outside as I was working in the basement and the dust was getting everywhere. Please let me know any sugestions! I am pretty nervous about my first 2 blades for other people, but my first 3 came out pretty well, so hopefully they won't be too bad! Also, if anyone has any ideas on what a good deer skinning knife blade would be, let me know! thanks guys and I'll try to get some pics up soon!
I just have one problem. I am having some trouble getting the grinds on both sides the same thickness. I am using 3/16" steel, so it needs a lot of grinding. The aren't too off, just barely noticable. The platen and belt don't line up, either. Can I make a platen of micarta that it beveled a little and just press the knife up against that to get an even flat bevel? It's hard to hold the knife at the same angle on each side and I was wondering if I could do a beveled platen instead (maybe 5 degree bevel over a few inches) and just hold the blade into that. Also, is there some way I can mount a small wheel of some sort on the platen to do contact grinding? I'm just trying to think of ways to make the 1x30 more versitile and fun to play with. I also have to move my grinding operation outside as I was working in the basement and the dust was getting everywhere. Please let me know any sugestions! I am pretty nervous about my first 2 blades for other people, but my first 3 came out pretty well, so hopefully they won't be too bad! Also, if anyone has any ideas on what a good deer skinning knife blade would be, let me know! thanks guys and I'll try to get some pics up soon!
