Talonite and 420V (any info on end product use?)

Big Dave

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 18, 1998
Messages
548
Hi:

Has anyone had a chance to test out these products once they have been made into a knife.

I'm interested in what the initial impressions are.

Thanks,

Dave
 
Look at Rob Simonichs' web site. There is a lot of posative feedback on talonite in his message board section. His site is listed in the forum links.
Hope this helps.
Mike C
 
Hi Mike:

Thanks for the reply.

I did check out the Talonite and talked to Rob. Sounds like a cool material.

It would be better to let him explain it. But, from what I understood (I could be wrong) the talonite had a different feel than regular steel when cutting. He said that some people have said that it feels more "slippery" when cutting through whatever. Kind of like the blade has an easier time sliding through stuff.

Hope he follows up with a post to clarify if I've confused it.

Bottom line is that it seems to hold a super edge, you can get it razor sharp and does not rust.

Sounds pretty cool.

Laters,

Dave
 
Well guys, in a nutshell I havent had one single complaint, well one little one and that is the stuff is a bit pricey.
I am sending out quite a lot of barstock to different makers, seems one of the good selling points of Talonite is that no heat treating is involved. As far as performance in the field, nothing but good stuff there. No corrosion, no edge rolling, no edge chipping, and phenomonal edgeholding. Talonite certainly has a different "feel" to it. It is 30% slicker that steel and when you use it it is noticeable. It takes a while to get used to it, and as Bald1 told me early on, you feel the edge and think it isnt too sharp, pick up a piece of typing paper and it slides right through it freehanging no problem. Last night at work I had to unbox a huge space heater that had a heavy cardboard box strapped to a pallat, I just stuck the knife in and walked around the box and it slid right through and didnt grab at all.
My message board is currently down, the owner is having software problems and may be a few more days before it is back, I will post some feild test results in there whaen it is up again. Also, there is a thread called Talonite, Walts thread cont in the General forum that has some info in it. Hope this helps! Rob

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www.simonichknives.com
 
The double post thingy......

[This message has been edited by Rob Simonich (edited 28 March 1999).]
 
Sounds like an ideal material for an office knife. Perfect for opening letters and boxes.

Dave
 
Mr. Simonich,
No heat treat at all?? So I could get a small piece of it, and with alot of hard work, turn it into a usable blade?? Or does it need special equipment to grind it. Just wondering.
Blades
 
Larry, you dont have to sharpen it very often!
smile.gif
I just got me a set of Spyderco Ceramic bench stones that work great, and Diamond stones also work very well. It is similar to sharpening CPM-440V

Blades, No heat treating is required, it comes age hardened, It does require Carbide bits to drill and ream it. A lot of makers are getting this stuff from me due to the fact that there is no heat treating. As far as grinding, this is not an entry level material, although it isnt real tough to work. It takes a good belt grinder and top quality belts. I suppose one could slowly and carefully use a bench grinder, but man that would be a lot of work!

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www.simonichknives.com
 
Rob,
Talonite is very intriguing to me.
You have probably answered these questions quite a few times before but here goes.....

Since you have worked it, how does it compare to 440V as far as edge holding ability from what you have seen? I realize that it will be harder to grind and/or polish due to the hardness of the stuff to begin with but as far as polishing goes, do you think that it is possible to get a highly polished finish on it?
One other question, who makes it? I have never heard of it before seeing it on your website.

CLWilkins
 
What about shear stress. If you locked a larger blade in a vise and bent it, like some of the big blade makers like to do, how much of an angle would it take before snapping?

Stone
 
The claims about Talonite are some of the most extreme I have ever seen :

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/tknives.htp

It springs back clean from about 80 degrees bend.

I don't know anyone who has made large blades out of it besides Rob who recently made this beauty (Rob if you have a problem with me posting this pic - just let me know) :

Mvc-013f.jpg


Once I get my smaller Talonite blade from Rob and determine the edge holding and edge toughness abilities, I will probably be looking into getting a bigger blade made. Somewhat like the above but with a blade about 12" long with bit of an angle, khukuri like but not as extreme.

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 31 March 1999).]
 
CL Wilkins, In my very unscientific tests, Talonite leaves 440-V in the dust at least in cutting cardboard. As far as pecentages go, dont know. As far as working the stuff, it is not that bad with high quality belts such as the 3M-977f belt. Kit Carson told me that is is much easier to work than 6K. I recently made a blade out of CPM-10V and in the annealed condition, the 10V was harder to grind than the Talonite! It dosent take a great polish, anything above 400 grit hand rub really starts to show the grain. This material is made out of the country, eother Asia or Europe for Carbide Processors, I am the diastributor of this material to the knife industry.

Stonefish and Cliff, the claims in Carbides site are a bit extreme. I have some 1/16" stoch that I have done destructive tests on and here is what I have found. A piece 1/16" X 1/2" X 7" was clamped about an inch in the vise, with a protractor underneath I started flexing, at between 20 and 25 deg it would spring back true, at between 25 and 30 deg, it would take a slight permanent bend that could be straightened right out, at about 45 deg it snapped off clean.

Cliff, no problem at all posting the picture! I would but have never figured out how to do it!
smile.gif


In other Talonite news, after a lot of harrasing and begging, 1/4" stock is now available!




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www.simonichknives.com
 
Stonefish, Cliff, & the gang:

I apologize....been busy with the B1-Bs going to europe... or I would have been in here helping Rob with answers.

I've had a Talonite knife since last november and now own two. I also own blades made from a variety of both tool steel and stainless materials including CPM440V, BG-42, A2, D2, dendretic D2, etc. No if ands or buts the Talonite bests them all for edge holding. Sharpening isn't difficult at all... and may actually be perceived as far easier than CPM440V.

As Rob said, this stuff is non-coroding, the edge won't chip or fold, and it cuts and cuts and cuts. For practical matters (as I don't jump up and down on my knives when clamped in a vise nor do I try to use them as I would a crow bar or entrenching tool) this stuff is more than plenty tough. And even if I did abuse them, from what we're learning it would take a hell of an effort to damage a cobalt blade!



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-=[Bob]=-

I did NOT escape from the institution! They gave me a day pass!

 
Mr. Simonich,
Thanks for the information. If I had checked your website out first I wouldn't have had to ask. I went there after I posted my question. I was wondering about grinding alittle neck knife out, but I don't have the equipment to even try. Oh well.
Blades
 
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