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Tang and epoxy
- Thread starter blgoode
- Start date
Sando
Knife Maker
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2002
- Messages
- 1,148
Are you talking about the unexposed area of the tang? The part for the epoxy to hold on to? 320?
You went too far. 220 is enough for me. As long as there are no deep marks or dips near the edge of the tang you are done. 320 leaves less for the epoxy to grab.
Heck. I use a 2" contact wheel and take a big ugly dip out of mine to help balance the knife and give fill room to the Acraglas.
Steve
You went too far. 220 is enough for me. As long as there are no deep marks or dips near the edge of the tang you are done. 320 leaves less for the epoxy to grab.
Heck. I use a 2" contact wheel and take a big ugly dip out of mine to help balance the knife and give fill room to the Acraglas.
Steve
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
- Messages
- 849
On a full tang knife after every thing is flat and fitted I use a new 36 grit belt to rough up the mating surfaces. Just a very light pass never had any come apart. Gib
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 3,831
I roughen up my tangs too. With wood, you want FLAT and SMOOTH surfaces. With epoxy, you want a rougher surface for the epoxy to grab a hold of.
One tip for tangs and epoxy: CLEAN everything up before mixing your epoxy! I clean and dry my scales, I windex and rinse my tangs and do the same on my pins. You don't want oils and dirt preventing a solid bond.
One tip for tangs and epoxy: CLEAN everything up before mixing your epoxy! I clean and dry my scales, I windex and rinse my tangs and do the same on my pins. You don't want oils and dirt preventing a solid bond.
blgoode
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2003
- Messages
- 7,145
we'll see if the epoxy holds???? Whats the best way to get a nice finnish on the blade next to there the handle material meets the blade. I assume just hand sanding but the epoxy isn't too sand paper freindly. Time is the best bet I am thinking. Just go at it till its how you want it. I was afraid to wipe too much of the epoxy off for fear I would push it out of any small gap I may have in the wood and blade, I did have a pretty tight fit though. Feels nice to have a handle on my first blade. As long as it stays on!!!
The main mistake I have made is to clamp the handle material too tight (slab handles, full tang). I just use spring clamps now and have had less problems.
Of course extra holes in the tang and/or dishing out the center to allow room for the epoxy are also necessary.
I haven't tried 'hidden pins' yet. What I mean is drilling slightly into the handle material and using the epoxy or pins that won't show on the outside. Anyone who uses that method care to commint on the usefullness?
Hopefully still learning, Lynn
Of course extra holes in the tang and/or dishing out the center to allow room for the epoxy are also necessary.
I haven't tried 'hidden pins' yet. What I mean is drilling slightly into the handle material and using the epoxy or pins that won't show on the outside. Anyone who uses that method care to commint on the usefullness?
Hopefully still learning, Lynn
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2001
- Messages
- 2,632
I am doing the "hidden pins" on a Cold Steel SRK I have been toying with for about 6 months now. I stripped down the SRK to just the carbon steel and have been playing with mustard patinas and different bluing techniques. I have sanded and steel wooled the surface so many times, and it has so many patterns now etched into it, it looks really cool.
However, my handle making ablility is still in its infancy. I am using JB weld for the first time and oak slabs that I bought from Lowes. Mortised tang and a hidden steel pin, that was also coated in JB Weld, the hole for the pin was a little loose and the pin notched so the epoxy would take a good hold.
I plan on doing a Khukri style handle to it, since I didnt bother with a guard (My Pukko dosent have one and I love it).
I am curious as to how it will come out mainly cause I have had this knife since I was a little kid. We will see...
However, my handle making ablility is still in its infancy. I am using JB weld for the first time and oak slabs that I bought from Lowes. Mortised tang and a hidden steel pin, that was also coated in JB Weld, the hole for the pin was a little loose and the pin notched so the epoxy would take a good hold.
I plan on doing a Khukri style handle to it, since I didnt bother with a guard (My Pukko dosent have one and I love it).
I am curious as to how it will come out mainly cause I have had this knife since I was a little kid. We will see...
Sando
Knife Maker
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2002
- Messages
- 1,148
One thing I've noticed with JB Weld. I couldn't squeeze out enough for a tight fit. Something about the steel filler in there. I could see it between the wood and the steel.
Hidden pins are cool. I also drill extra, random holes on the under side of the wood at the same time. Little epoxy pockets. If you are really concerned you can drill lots of extra holes in the tang too. Some with pins; some without.
Steve
Hidden pins are cool. I also drill extra, random holes on the under side of the wood at the same time. Little epoxy pockets. If you are really concerned you can drill lots of extra holes in the tang too. Some with pins; some without.
Steve