Tang and scale holes for pins

[Blackdirt cowboy]

Do you prefer to use a drill bit one size larger than your pins, or do you prefer to ream the hoke to the exact dimensions with a reamer? I’m thinking about drilling an oversized hole in the tang and reaming the hole in the scales. I’m really tired of the ugly gaps around the pin.

 

[A.McPherson]

Oversized is the way to go... Gives ya a little wiggle room.

 

[Cushing H.]

a while ago I went to drilling the hole in both the tang and the scale one size up from the actual size of the pin ..... and never looked back. (like ..... i literally just was working on drilling out holes in a tang for 1/8 " pins using a #30 drill.) When it comes to the scale .... AFTER I have sanded the scale to shape, and finished sanding on the slack belt (but before going to hand sanding) I use a reamer to **slightly** expand the outside of the pin hole. I then glue in the pin, sand down so that maybe 1/8" of pin is protruding, then peen until there is no gap between the pin and the reamed hole, then sand flush. this leaves no gap between the pin and the hole.

 

[imill3567]

I go one size over in both tang and scales. There's no visible gap.

 

[LCoop]

I go one size over for tang but same size for handle material.

 

[Hubert S.]

The pin stock I have is not exactly precise or even perfectly round (SS or brass rod from McMaster). I drill holes 0.002" or so bigger, depending on the nearest drill bit I have.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I drill the tang holes 15-25% oversize. Trust me, there will be errors that need the extra wiggle room. The epoxy fills the void and actually makes the handle slightly more shock resistant.
On scale holes, I go up to the next drill size. Just enough to slide through with no binding.

 

[Scaniaman]

If using 6 mm pin stock, I would generally drill a 6.1 mm hole in the scale. BUT I check both drill bit and pin with my caliper, because things aren't always what they are said to be.

 

[Horsewright]

If a knife has a bolster the bolster holes are all drilled with a #30. All other holes in that tang are blasted out using a step drill. If a knife does not have a bolster then the front hole is a #30 and then all the other holes are blasted out. On handle materials, #30 for 1/8" pins and Fs for 1/4" lanyard tubes.

 

[ChristoDart]

I need to get some of the numbered drill bits. I normally use micarta or g10 pins so I drill a normal 1/8 or 1/4 hole in the scales and tang then put my 12 inch pin stock in a hand drill and sand it down until it’s a perfect fit.

 

[Horsewright]

I need to get some of the numbered drill bits. I normally use micarta or g10 pins so I drill a normal 1/8 or 1/4 hole in the scales and tang then put my 12 inch pin stock in a hand drill and sand it down until it’s a perfect fit.

Yep a lot easier the other way #30 is the way to go for the 1/8 pins. A lot of folks think that the fit will be loose or sloppy but its not. #30 for the two bolster pins and for the two in the handle. An F for the lanyard tube:

 

[Blackdirt cowboy]

Horsewright , when you blow out the tang with those big holes, how do you ensure that your holes drilled in the scales are in aesthetically pleasing spots as well as lining up with those larger holes in the tang? Do you grind the scales to shape prior to drilling the holes?

 

[argel55]

3/32 pins need #40 drill bit, 1/8 needs #30 drill bit, 1/4 needs F drill bit

 

[Horsewright]

Horsewright , when you blow out the tang with those big holes, how do you ensure that your holes drilled in the scales are in aesthetically pleasing spots as well as lining up with those larger holes in the tang? Do you grind the scales to shape prior to drilling the holes?

With a knife with a bolster I glue on the right side of the handle material first. Its only prep to that time is that it has been flattened so it will glue well against the tang and also fitted to the bolster. After the glue has dried I will go to the bandsaw and trim all excess handle material and excess bolster material and then head to the grinders where I get everything pretty much ground to the profile of the knife. I then use a file to clean up the left side of the bolster from any burrs and any excess glue, the rest of the tang having been already done on a flat disc. Finally I head over to the drill press and drill the holes for the pins and lanyard tubes. That way I can put the holes pretty much where I want as long as I have the tang holes in the right place.