Tang shaping after the handle is on?

I

itrade

Joined
Jul 3, 2002
Messages
645
The standard advice is to avoid hand sanding where the bolsters go. Reason is the edges of the tang get rounded and you don't have a nice tight fit between the bolsters and the tang. However, If you start sanding right where the bolster ends you'll have sanding start marks on the ricasso.

Just wondering if I'm the only one that does this, but I leave everything oversized until the handle is on. I even leave the slabs way oversized. Then I grind down everthing flush with a 50 grit. Then there are those areas on the edge of the tang where the handsanding left them rounded. There is exposed epoxy there - or the bolsters show a gap.

I just keep grinding until I'm past that. The exposed area is now tight.

I do this in the finger grooves and everything.

Do you do that? Or, do you leave the shape of the blade untouched after the handle is on?

Steve
 
Steve, use a sanding block. For rounded areas use a round dowel as a sanding block. Keeps edges sharp.

RL
 
Roger,

Oh I do. In fact I use a piece of hardened 1095 for a sanding block.


Bob Engnath:

Bolsters require a more precise method of hand rubbing to keep the metal flat enough to make the near invisible joint ...

You'll need a flat plate of something hard, steel, or....

The blade will level itself and true up the metal as you rub, without any rocking to round the edges and spoil the bolster joint....
Click to expand...

As Engnath describes, a hard sanding block still isn't good enough. You need to move the blade on the paper to ensure sharp/clean edges.

I have done it that way, too. Works great.

I was just wondering if other folks do final shaping after the slabs are on. I do and I don't have to worry about the issue.

Steve
 
I must have misunderstood the original posting.

Yes, I for one always affix oversize scales and liners, and bolsters. The tang is fully shaped before doing so.

RL
 
Yes Steve that's how I do it too. I bring the whole knife down around its profile after everything is affixed to the knife, then finish off the bolsters and handle.

Don't know if it matters but I found I get a much tighter joint at the bolsters and knife if I finish the inside of the bolsters to 400. When I stopped at 60 grit often I'd get a gap that was really just a scratch from the 60...ugly!

By the way, I complete the sheath before sharpening the knife, too. :D
 
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