The Japanese Tanto is a completely different blade design. The squarish blade design you are referring to is the Americanized Tanto.
A properly made "Americanized Tanto" keeps the tip in line with the spine, unlike drop points and clip points that lower the point.
Lowering the point allows for greater control over the knife, but limits the amount of material you can put at the tip. So the point of the tanto was originally have the tip rapidly achieve the full thickness of the blade.
On top of that, the WIDTH of the blade widens very quickly to achieve the full WIDENESS of the blade so that way if you were to stab something very stiff (like say.. a car hood) the tanto point would be able to puncture through and introduce the entire thickness and width of the blade using the full momentum of your stab. On the other hand a dagger may not penetrate at all due to the thinner tip, but if it did, as you pushed the dagger deeper, the force required would get bigger and bigger, which is hard to accomplish. The tanto would takes advantage of the strongest part of your stabbing motion.
Realistically what does this mean? A properly made tanto is designed to maximize tip strength at the cost of sacrificing utility value (point not easily controlled, awkward blade profile). If you decide you do want a tanto, be careful because it is very easy to improperly design a tanto so that you don't have that strong tip, but still keep the awkward secondary point. Like for example the BM Warn, BM clips the tanto point, and the point is rather thin, so really it is closer to clip point, but it still has the secondary point so it is not as good for utility as something with a belly, but it still won't have a strong tip. The only well made tanto points I have actually played around with / owned, Cold Steel really is the only place to look.
Consensus will tell you to look into other blade designs, and I agree.