Tanto information

[Alain M-D]

Hello !
I would like to make a 12" (OAL) japanese tanto style
knife and I woul like to have your opinion because I
dont know a lot on this subject ...

- Which steel thickness should I choose? (I know, i can use anything, but what you recommend to me?) For this kind of knife, is a thin blade are better? (I have 1/8, 5/32 and 3/16 in stock)

- It seems to have two style of tanto, a model with a point with angle and is another with a more rounded point, which the difference? Is this both are traditional models? One older than other ?

- On "real" and "authentic" tanto, what kinf of grind are used (hollow, flat or chisel)

- I would like to make a hidden tang with a round (oval) handle.
I do not want to make a cord (silk) wrap for this first, I will make only a wood handle. Which is the best technique to make the hole to insert the tang? (I could cut the handle in two, make a groove and glue the two pieces... but that risks to be visible if I do not cover it with silk)

Thanks for all your information !!

Alain M-D

 

[BRTATCK]

Hello Alain. These are just my opinions, but I would go with the 3/16 or even a 1/4 inch thick steel. The majority of the tantos I have seen or made have a fairly thick spine which is usually an almost flat grind. I say almost flat because japanese blades are usually slightly convex with the grinds sloping towards the edge. Also most of the original tantos I have seen are of the rounded point variety with no definable ridge line. HOWEVER???? with japanese blades there are usually exceptions to every standard. As for the plain wood mounts called shirasaya they were made just as you said, by taking two halves and inletting the space for the tang and then gluing together. With a nice flat joint there is almost no visible line. I hope that this helps. I am working on one right now of about the same size. It is in the polishing stages ( refer to my earlier FUF post) and I plan on plain mounts also with horn fittings. I will post a picture when it gets done.
Have fun

 

[Mike Hull]

Also, Japnese Tanto's don't have that "chisel" point. That is strictly an American invention.

 

[ddavelarsen]

Looks like we're about to have a tanto party, I'm working on one now too about the same size. I used 3/16 stock and worked to keep any distal taper to a minimum, maintaining full thickness to near the point. The grind is flat until near the edge where it goes convex to the edge.

I think most real Japanese blades were pretty much flat to the edge, which resulted in one mean cut. I haven't tried that yet. Personally I like the rounded traditional point better than the Americanized angled point, but that's just me and I'm usually in the minority.

As to your hidden tang, I'd say any of the regular methods like L6's "wallering" method should work. Drill it out and using either the drill or a specially prepared saw, enlarge the hole until it just fits the tang. A single pin holding in on would rock...

One thing I've done on this one that I'll do differently next time, is I used a turkshead knot as a guard rather than making a tsuba; next time I'm going to come up with a small tsuba and see how that works. Somehow my handle doesn't look as good as a Mike Snody or Steve Corkum does.

When the saya is done in a week or so I'll post pics too. Ain't this fun???

Dave

 

[Robert Marotz]

Heya...

With Japanese swords, a shorter blade rarely means a thinner one. Just about every traditional one is at least 1/4" thick at the machi.

Also, the most common and accurate shape of tanto was called hira-zukuri, which had no longitudinal ridge, no separately defined tip, and no secondary bevel at the edge. As many tanto were made from cut-down swords, it is not terribly unusual to see shapes like shinogi zukuri (most common in tachi and katana) in tanto-sized blades.

They are pretty much always convex-ground. The degree of convexity is variable, and the positioning of the "meat" differs from blade to blade, so that is up to you. However, it's usually not extremely rounded, and that's probably why many people fall under the assumption that they're flat ground with a rounded edge.

As a side-note, remember that shirasaya are not meant to be used. They are storage mountings and nothing more. If you use much stronger adhesives and perhaps a solid wood like maple, you will achieve a more usable setup than if you were to go completely traditional.

If you can get your hands on a book, I strongly suggest you take a peek at "Craft of the Japanese Sword." That should answer many questions for you.

However, if you are more interested in asking specific questions, feel free to email me or post further here or in the Sword Discussion Forum (as traditional tanto fall under the category of swords ).

 

[Alain M-D]

Thanks to all for your verry interesting opinion and advice...
I will post a pic if I found time to finish my first tanto try...

Alain M-D

 

[hank_rearden]

the clipped tanto with clearly facetted bevels is dimension-specific.

one knife-maker says the optimum dimensions would be 6" blade, 11-12" OAL, 1/4" uniform spine thickness and about 1 1/4" width. a full-height flat grind will be used and the angle of the upswept edge meeting the point should be around 70 degrees. anything short or beyond these will result in an unsightly tanto.

a 'smooth' tanto with a variable spine thickness and less obtuse upswept angle will allow for greater variation and creativity. the japanese, if anything, appreciate artistry.