OK, persuant to the Double bit thread I thought it might be better off on its own.
This is 'Tuning' a Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe (A.K.A SFA)
I have done a few Wetterlings Hatchets and Axes from a #13 to a #26 limbing axe and a Carpenters axe. The 4 can be seen here.
The Wetterlings axes are usually known for the excellent cost/performance and their coarse finish. All of the Wetterlings I bought had plenty of pitts, dings and rust spots, un even polls and generally required about an hours file work to level them out a bit.
The Gransfors Bruk hatchets and axes are usually known for their superior finish and symmetry when compared to a Wetterlings. They dont however perform better, the price you pay is usually in the finish.
(This isnt totally true as Wetterlings can be guilty of having canted heads and occasionally crappy grain orientation in their handles I have only seen this on the smallest models though)
Anyway, this is about a SFA and the steps taken to 'Tune' it. By 'Tune' I mean the removal of all the scale and rust from the head and to some degree the smaller pits. There are no large forging marks as seen on the Wetterlings.
SFA taped up to protect the handle from scale crud.
Taking the time to mask properly is important.
Here is the head from NIB, it looks like it has been in storage for a while since it was made. I was a little surprised at the amount of rust.
#100 grit paper used very lightly removes the scale and rust in no time. This was about 20 seconds work. Note the crud on the handle already, underscoring the need for proper masking.
At this stage of the game, you are starting to wonder if you should have started this as its starting to look messy and maybe the black wasnt so bad afterall.
I was short of paper and had to go from #100 > #400 in l jump. Still, you can see an immediate improvement in the finish. This is about 45 mins worth of work (remember the other side looks like this too.)
Chemical warfare!
Metal Glo does a great job of removing the black crud and giving the blade a basic polish so you can see clearly where you need to work. In this case I will wait until I can get some more #220 paper as there is a lot of remedial work still to be done.
Still, from a distance it looks fairly nice.
The Wetterlings above are at a much finer finish than this. I estimate it will take about 5-6 hours to finish this head by hand and then on and off for a week to treat the handle.
Stand by for updates
This is 'Tuning' a Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe (A.K.A SFA)
I have done a few Wetterlings Hatchets and Axes from a #13 to a #26 limbing axe and a Carpenters axe. The 4 can be seen here.
The Wetterlings axes are usually known for the excellent cost/performance and their coarse finish. All of the Wetterlings I bought had plenty of pitts, dings and rust spots, un even polls and generally required about an hours file work to level them out a bit.
The Gransfors Bruk hatchets and axes are usually known for their superior finish and symmetry when compared to a Wetterlings. They dont however perform better, the price you pay is usually in the finish.
(This isnt totally true as Wetterlings can be guilty of having canted heads and occasionally crappy grain orientation in their handles I have only seen this on the smallest models though)
Anyway, this is about a SFA and the steps taken to 'Tune' it. By 'Tune' I mean the removal of all the scale and rust from the head and to some degree the smaller pits. There are no large forging marks as seen on the Wetterlings.
SFA taped up to protect the handle from scale crud.
Taking the time to mask properly is important.
Here is the head from NIB, it looks like it has been in storage for a while since it was made. I was a little surprised at the amount of rust.
#100 grit paper used very lightly removes the scale and rust in no time. This was about 20 seconds work. Note the crud on the handle already, underscoring the need for proper masking.
At this stage of the game, you are starting to wonder if you should have started this as its starting to look messy and maybe the black wasnt so bad afterall.
I was short of paper and had to go from #100 > #400 in l jump. Still, you can see an immediate improvement in the finish. This is about 45 mins worth of work (remember the other side looks like this too.)
Chemical warfare!
Metal Glo does a great job of removing the black crud and giving the blade a basic polish so you can see clearly where you need to work. In this case I will wait until I can get some more #220 paper as there is a lot of remedial work still to be done.
Still, from a distance it looks fairly nice.
The Wetterlings above are at a much finer finish than this. I estimate it will take about 5-6 hours to finish this head by hand and then on and off for a week to treat the handle.
Stand by for updates
I like the paint touch up! BTW, I have had the Wetterlings SHA and my double bit sitting in linseed oil, and have been applying liberal coats two to three times a day since you last posted here (the 26th I think). How much longer wold you suggest I do this? Or am I done? I also was reading on the linseed oil can "dries in two to six weeks
Have you found that it really takes that long?
