Tarwar Trouble !!

Brendan

Brendan

Joined
Feb 13, 2002
Messages
3,679
I unsheathed my Tarwar this morning before going to work - I was heartbroken. Loads of little finger print rusting. I last sharpened the blade awhile ago but cleaned it really good and gave it a thorough oiling with WD40 - this was to ensure no rusting.I even sprayed the inside of the sheath. I am now faced with the choice of sanding away the mirror polish and trying to get some sort of patina to give it some character (not that it doesn't have enough already mind) or giving it a satin finish !!

Experts, please help - what should I do ?

:grumpy:
 
Try some metal polish. Then maybe some car wax instead of WD 40. I made a loose cardboard storage sheath for my katana for the same reasons as yours.
 
I use CLP, and the only time I notice things is when I leave them sitting for 6 months and had put them away with out wiping them down.:o

WD-40 is for dissolving greasy buildup on parts and breaking rusted bolts loose, I would not trust it to oil knives.

Dont know what to tell you, I used to use my JKM as a kitchen knife, when it was the only thing "small enough" I had, and it now has a really nice patina, but it did rust occasionally, and I had to go after it with #0000 steel wool. But I got to warn you that steel wool will remove the mirror finish quick!
I guess try some of that car wax stuff, or maybe flitz? I need to get both and try it on some things.
 
Car wax, rennaissance wax, and Eezox Gun Care spray have been the best protectants I've used. I'm in NJ and it's not very humid usually, but it had been for the month of May. I saw rust form even on blades coated with Tuf-Cloth. The waxed blades were fine. Eezox is good for long term storage. If you do a search for eezox you'll find a thread with tests against WD-40, etc.
Wax has been best though. Put a few coats on a clean blade amd it shines nicely, and is protected.
 
It's not the end of the world. Take your time and listen to the good advice. You can make it better than new.
 
Polish such as Gunbrite (my favorite by Iosso) or MAAS work great to remove the rust and still leave the finish. You can use the polish with some 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper and the dulling will be minimal. You can be it back to almost good as new with a dremel and polishing compound or a big buffing wheel for the larger areas.

Hey, listen to me. I sound like an expert. I'm not. I've just done this twice with the blades in the past. I bought them as blems with a little rust on the tips. Good luck and take your time.
 
Stop spraying the inside of the sheath, and stop using WD-40. Oiling the inside of the sheath will make it more likely to collect gunk, which could attract moisture to your steel blade. WD-40 is not a suitable oil for steel blades.

All you need is gun oil, or thick mineral oil (from the pharmacy). Apply a light coating, and make sure it doesn't drip from the blade. As for removing the finger prints, you could try a metal polish such as Flitz or MAAS. Not as abrasive as steel wool, too.
 
I can feel your pain about that Tarwar. "Once rusted, junk forever," someone is said, to have said.

I recommend that you take drastic action and break your attachment to that blade and send it straightaway to me as I have no such attachment.

Seriously---I'm now coating all guns and knives with Eezox and I am in a very humid environment and it seems to be working fine -so far.

WD 40, I found, was terrible as a rust preventative.About the only thing I use wd40 for nowadays is to remove sticky glue.
 
I have a pretty good collection of sharp things and living semi-close to the ocean it can sometimes wreck havoc on them, even in the house. I use to use CLP and do a once a week clean-up and re-oil...no more...I now use Master Formula "Sealer Gloss" which is a protective wax that leaves a clear flexible coating, so far it has been 3 months since I have put this on all metal parts of my collection...sure as heck beats every dang week!! Everyone has a preference and this is mine...
only the best for my babies
sweet-386.jpg
M.I.A 25" Kobra by Kumar
 
Evaporust applied to the blade and allowed to dry is
supposed to be a rust preventative.
I guess -any- moisture activates the Evaporust which then
sits waiting to do its work until it dries again.
Sort of a 'self-oiling' blade.
:rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by Brendan
I unsheathed my Tarwar this morning before going to work - I was heartbroken.
Click to expand...

That's tough Two Dogs.:(

Loads of little finger print rusting.
I last sharpened the blade awhile ago but cleaned it really good and gave it a thorough oiling with WD40 - this was to ensure no rusting.
Click to expand...

Had to put these two together because one leads to the other.:rolleyes: I'm betting after you wiped the blade down really good as you said Two Dogs that you used your fingertips to rub the WD-40 on the blade.:rolleyes: :p
As it's already been said, "WD40 isn't a rust preventive", it is however a moisture repellant.
Even if you use oil or wax to put a protective coating on a blade it's important that you do so with a pad or cloth applicator to keep your little fingertips from touching the bare steel.:grumpy:
The acids on your fingertips can remain under the oil for a long time and keep creating further pitting.:rolleyes:

I even sprayed the inside of the sheath.
Click to expand...

All that does is waste the WD-40 and make you feel good, like you've done something.:rolleyes:

I am now faced with the choice of sanding away the mirror polish and trying to get some sort of patina to give it some character (not that it doesn't have enough already mind) or giving it a satin finish !!
Click to expand...

Experts, please help - what should I do ?
Click to expand...

If Flitz or Simichrome doesn't take the rust off you could always have it repolished by a machine shop that does these things.
My recommendation is that you put a satin finish on with a Scotch-Brite pad or 0000 (4 ought) steel wool and then blue it with a good cold blue.
Or you could use the mustard or other condiment to create a patina.
I told everyone here a long time ago about using Miracle Whip Salad Dressing or Mayonaise to create the same finish. It ain't nuthin new.:rolleyes: :p
 
Thanks for all the help chaps - Yvsa I oiled it with a tissue !!

I have had mates over that insist on always touching my blades - don't ask me why !!

I tried the patina trick on my GS and so far it looks o.k - used a little tomato sauce, then some vinegar, then some HP (Brown sauce) - really gives it that aged look, more to be done but so far I am happy, we'll see how it turns out before trying of Tarwar.

:)
 
Originally posted by Brendan
Thanks for all the help chaps - Yvsa I oiled it with a tissue !!
Click to expand...

Think about it Two Dogs, a tissue is Too Dayumed Thin!!!!:rolleyes: :p


I have had mates over that insist on always touching my blades - don't ask me why !!
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Break their dayumed fingers and they will quit!!!!:rolleyes: :p :grumpy:
Seriously!!!!:mad: :grumpy:
 
Originally posted by btice
Sweet, where do you find the "Sealer Gloss?" Thanks.
Click to expand...

I bought a bunch of it out at the Cherry's Jubilee car show at Laguna Seca raceway..this is what a lot of guys were using on these high dollar classic cars and hot rods...here is the website but have not yet seen it in any stores around here where I live, I use both the sealer and metal polish
http://master-formula.com/english.htm
 
I use Turtle Wax on my blades for storage, works fine lasts a long time. Resists fingerprints too, although I concur with Yvsa on the topic of people who "see" with their hands.

I regularly apply Thompson Center Bore Butter to the ones that spend a lot of time in the field. Not as pretty, but very effective.
 
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