Teach me about balsa....

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d.weglarz13

Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
1,945
Hey guys. So, after taking a little break for a few months from hand sharpening(well, sharpening anything), I realized the time away really helped me get a lot better with hand sharpening knives. I have noticed this(taking a break helps), as it seems the time away from your hands, lets the ideas flow better in the mind, or something like that. Basically, even with playing piano, sharpening knives, playing handball, etc. etc. etc, anything that requires muscle memory, is worth trying taking a break to let it fester in your mind for a little while.

So, now that I seem to be GREAT at hand sharpening on my DMT 10" stones, I need a new strop, as somehow my old one just kind of got ruined, plus i need to buy new compound or diamond spray, some mdf, etc.

So, what is all this I am hearing about Balsa?

I was just gonna build a nice new leather strop, but what are the advantages to balsa? and, how do you go about making a strop with balsa? Any links or pics would really help out. Do you put a small strip on top a piece of mdf? Or is the whole strop balsa?
1. I am looking to make some separate strops with different diamond sprays,
2. and also want to make myself a new strop bat for when i am in the field.
3. not sure if it matters, but wouldn't mind a strop for my axes too, so maybe i should think about a wider one also?
So any suggestions or ideas? Thanks
I read a bunch of stuff about guys using balsa, but couldn't really find any good info as to why or how. Thanks again.

dave
 
I'd like to know more about this, too. I've heard about using sprays on balsa. Does anyone have experience, and how does it compare to leather?
 
I have diamond paste on balsa wood. They work fine but I just like the feedback from leather strops better. One advantage of balsa over leather is cost. It's pretty cheap and much easier to make than leather strops.
 
The balsa I've been using was purchased at a large 'hobby' chain store. Picked up a package of about 6 or 8 balsa 'blocks', made for carving/whittling/modelling I'm sure. This package was about $8 or so. The blocks are roughly 1.5" x 2" x 6" in size. In other words, they're about the same size as a 6" bench hone (very convenient). All I had to do was sand one face of the block relatively smooth, and apply compound. The block literally is the strop; no 'assembly' required. When it gets heavily loaded up & dirty, I just sand it clean and re-apply compound. Doesn't get any simpler than that.
 
I am liking balsa...after a week. I am using green compound. I purchased a 3' "board of it. 3'x3"x1/4". I cut it into 3 1' stops and crayoned on some green compound. I like the feel of it...I like the feedback I get. The problem with my homemade leather strop on the block of wood is that it isn't flat. The leather varies in thickeness from inch to inch, I used the smooth side without roughing it up, and the oaken board I glued it to is a little warped. Even though I am more than capable of making a wooden backed leather bench strop, I was considering buying one for the precision. But I am holding off for now to see how this balsa thing works. So far, I like it.
 
HoosierQ said:
The problem with my homemade leather strop on the block of wood is that it isn't flat.
Click to expand...

It doesn't need to be flat. You can strop on a baseball...

The leather varies in thickeness from inch to inch, I used the smooth side without roughing it up, and the oaken board I glued it to is a little warped. Even though I am more than capable of making a wooden backed leather bench strop, I was considering buying one for the precision.
Click to expand...

Your edge is only touching the strop at specific points. It is not a Johanson Block. If your technique for stropping is correct, your entire edge will be in contact with the strop/stropping medium at dozens of points along each stroke. You are NOT going to be wearing hills or valleys into your knife. It just doesn't work that way. I have a small piece of horsehide that I wrap around my fist to do touch-ups when field-dressing game. Add to that, the fact that the edge shouldn't be needing more than 5-15 strokes on the strop anyway! If more is required, there should have been more time spent on the last stone.


Stitchawl
 
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