This is what works for me:
I wrap the knife in a thick shop towel to, to prevent scratching, then gently tighten the pivot-end of the knife in a bench vise. This will usually tighten up the blade and expose the pin. Peen the newly exposed pin on both sides with a polished hammer, taking care not to hit it too hard. Now I file the pin flush with the bolster using a ceramic rod from a Spyderco sharpmaker. "Hit" it with some super fine sandpaper and then buff. I find that the reason a 110 sometimes has side-to-side blade play is because the insides of the handle slabs are not perfectly flat. In this case the blade will feel good open, however, it will stick slightly before in is completely retracted into the handle. To solve this (providing that it has not been over tightened), just apply some valve grinding compound to the pivot area and repeatedly open and close the blade in the effected portion of the rotation until loosened. Be sure to thoroughly wash out the valve grinding compound, dry, and oil.
I hope this is the kind of info you are looking for. Either way, this technique worked well for me last week on a wobbly damascus 110 from the custom shop that I have had for awhile.
Jeff
