Temper Lines / Hamons

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Mar 26, 2002
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Originally posted by Tom Holt
the acids in the plant juices have very lightly etched the blade, leaving a shadow which I believe may be a temper-line.
I've been meaning to post on hamons / temper lines on khuks.

I'd been waiting to get a picture ready, but since the topic has come up in "Stain removal....".

You'll be able to see --exactly-- where the hardness is on the blade.

I was surprised to see that the tip of mine had been hardened very specifically.
Every pour of water seems to show up as a fairly distinct region.
Very cool.:D

I've little experience, but found that it's very easy.
But, it is an acid etch of the steel.
If you're not comfortable with maybe losing some brightness of the finish---Don't try it.

Mix vinegar and water half & half. Mix in a few drops of dish soap to prevent beading of the solution on the blade metal. Warm the blade well in hot tap water. Hold the blade point down over a container or old newspaper and brush / sponge on the acid solution evenly over the whole blade. (Watch the edge of course! Brush helps keep a safe distance from fingers. Or make up a bunch of solution and just immerse the blade--my preference.) When you start getting a color change rinse the blade and use the finest material you have to buff off the tarnish you just created. The temper line etching should be visible after 1-2 treatments. More treatments make it clearer.

If you want to be most cautious starting out, use a cold blade and cold solution. Wet a paper towel with the vinegar solution and wipe the blade with it, then immediately dry it with another paper towel. (Or dip and dry) Repeat as needed.

Once you're ready to walk away from the blade use a baking soda solution (or baking soda toothpaste) wiped on to inactivate any remaining acid. Then dry & oil the blade lightly.

For most of my blade wiping and buffing, I arrange an old piece of carpet of the edge of a table with the paper towel or buffing material on the edge. Wipe / rub the blade over it and you don't have to worry about sliding your finger down the blade. (After several close calls I learned my attention tends to wander!) An electric toothbrush and toothpaste can work too, but may be a bit messy.

My info comes largely from great discussion threads found at:

http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1627
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2087

Since I'm not concerned with a high polish, I experiment with lot's of buffing / scrubbing materials. [1000 grit wet-dry sandpaper, pumice (wood shop - graded powder), Rottenstone (wood shop - limestone dust), 0000 steel wool, various toothpastes] Use mineral oil as a lubricant. The powders can be made into a thin paste with the mineral oil.

I've also used oxalic acid (Barkeeper's Friend Cleaner & Polish from the grocery) to do the etch. Make a paste with water and scrub it on with a toothbrush.

The higher the polish, the clearer I believe the temper-line will appear.

Let us all hear (AND SEE) what you find.
And any tips or techniques that work best for you.

Good Luck
Dean
 
This is really cool!

I suspect that everyone here knew that a hamon was hiding in khuks somewhere. interesting ideas on finding them.

Waiting for the pix!!!
 
I used the Federico grapefruit juice method on my AK. Then I used wet steel wool on the raised surface giving it a two tone effect. Didn't turn out too bad.

A shiny blade is too difficult to maintain plus I'm lazy :)
 
Thanks for the info, ddean.

I just did a vinegar etching/bluing job on a carbon-steel chef's knife (it came out a deep gray color). I have yet to work up the courage to try an etch on one of my khuks, though.

S.
 
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