Most Cable is 1095 steel and will harden in oil or water the oil should be heated to at least 130 degrees, up to 180 , higher heated oil will let the quench to go faster producing a harder blade ,, the slower the quench -- lower temp oil -the softer the blade ,
As you have already mentioned the weld seams are iron - the surface of the steel is at WELDING TEMP and MOLTEN theirby MAKING THE WELD POSSIBLE as a rule a 5% surface area becomes iron void of carbon - regardless of strain size , so most tend to use the larger size strand so they will be more visible when completed ,
I think the small strains have a place in a high performance blade and should not be over looked .
I feel that cable is a great steel and its nature is often over looked to be used as a high performance steel
first of all a weld of 5 % completely around a strand and each strand has this ,locking each to each other makes for a very stought blade --the locking system cant be beat - each strand holding WELDED to the next and when you consider the numbers of surface area locked together very strong
its like other steels, it takes a while to learn to weld no. 1 and then after that to learn to heat treat for your needs .
this is long already so I want go their ,
but I will tell what I do and hope it helps you
first its very important to get good cable as Bill Buxton as mentioned.
learn to weld solid --- if you think its solid take a few more welds to insure like at least 3
also temp at welding is very high and hard blows with the hammer will only drive all the 5 % welding material away and slow down the process --- SO LIGHT TAPS is needed to weld up ,take you time and do a good job .nothing harder than to find a void when grinding and having to lose all that work so weld it tight and solid .
after you certain that you have a good bar of steel forge it to shape ,forge in all the bevels if you like that long strand look on the sides of the blade if on the other hand you like the cell look forge bevels less so that more stock will be removed at finishing
what ever way you chose leave at least the thickness of a 1/8 or better on the edges,
I like the edge to be thick at heatreating so I want get warps remember you are heatreating each cell ,
as im forging the knife I very sure to keep every thing even , keep distal tapers even not thicker on one and not perfect but close bring blade up to none magnetic place in vermiculite or a few hours this will relieve all stresses brought about buy forging ,
clean up blade at grinder and grind to shape leaving room to clean up after heat treatment a little over 1/16 on the edge or better if you can the thicker the better ,
in the forging and welding you have heated the blade a large number of times ,cousing very large grain sizes in the blade which you need to change.
large grain will produce a weak blade to say the least ,
to reduce the grain you need to ( thermo cycle )
this is a very simple process and one that can not be over looked
No 1 bring the blade to none magnetic =====DO NOT GO OVER NONE MAG ==== as soon as mag turns lose let the blade cool to black witch is about 900 degrees I will wave it back and forth to cool in open air .
no2 repeat this process but this time bring blade to just below none mag when mag begins to get weak -- allow to cool to black in open air
no 3 repeat --- this will reduce grain size to a very fine size .
n0 4 bring blade to none magnetic and be sure not to go over check often and catch it as its turning lose or on the rise you will cause grain to grow again quench in oil at 130 ----180
do not move blade in oil or it will warp ;
check with a file to be sure it hardened is it did wipe oil off before it hardens the oil will slip off and its easer to clean up
temper blade in oven at 350 for 1 hour two times --- check on brass rod d its to hard go to 375 for one hour
sorry this is so long but if I can be of more help in confusing you let me know
and this is no means the only way to do this this is the way I have been doing it with great results .
